High Pressure Fuel Pump!!

mattnunns · Feb 2, 2019

Hi all,

Long time lurker, but my td4 ‘06 freelander has decided it would rather spit it’s diesel out than drink it like a good boy!!

I’ve seen lots of information and am thinking about doing it myself when I have a week off, seals and removal don’t look too bad although a long process and found the tool to remove the pump.

The main question is, do I need to lock the engine cams or anything? Watched a video online and it seemed to be talking about putting marks on the cam pulleys to make sure timing doesn’t shift when doing it? If that’s the case it might be off to a garage instead!!

Thanks in advance!

GrumpyGel · Feb 2, 2019

Didn't think the HP Pump on a TD4 has anything to do with timing - on a Common Rail that's down to sensors and the engine's ECU telling the injectors when to open, ie all the pump does is provide a source of high pressure fuel.

I might be wrong though and you'd better wait for someone to correct me!

If you want a definitive answer, have a read of the Land Rover Rave Workshop Manual. There's info on downloading it here....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

You need a Windows PC to install and run it on.

pdpjpr · Feb 2, 2019

I did my TD4 06 recently and must have watched the same video as yourself. I didn't lock mine as the nut that retains the hpfp wasn't overly tight to get off. Key to it is making sure the sprocket retainer is used correctly and make sure the engine is supported underneath when you remove the engine mount. I gave myself a day to complete and did it comfortably in that time. Did it in October and no fuel leak to date.

Nodge68 · Feb 2, 2019

mattnunns said:
The main question is, do I need to lock the engine cams or anything? Watched a video online and it seemed to be talking about putting marks on the cam pulleys to make sure timing doesn’t shift when doing it?

Non of that messing about. You can't mark the pulleys anyway, as they are sprockets and hidden under an oil tight cover. All you do is remove the plug in the timing chain cover, so you can undo the pump drive sprocket nut. Then screw in your sprocket retainer/ pusher, with the centre part fully backed out. Then undo the 3 pump body retainer nuts from the pump side if the timing chain case. Then screw in the centre part if the retainer/pusher tool. This pops the taper, so the pump can be removed. Refit in reverse order, but don't remove the sprocket retainer (outer section), until the pump is refitted.

It's not a difficult job, which I can do uncomfortably in under 2 hours, although I have done it several times.

mattnunns · Feb 2, 2019

Thanks guys, sounds like it might be worth trying myself! Did you refurb the fuel pump yourselves or get a refurb pump?

Nodge68 · Feb 2, 2019

mattnunns said:
Did you refurb the fuel pump yourselves or get a refurb pump?

I've done it both ways. DIY refurbishment of the pump is the cheapest way to do it. However this is only really successful if the pump isn't rusty under the heads. If there's heavy rust, the the pump heads and body will need facing flat, which is a difficult and potentially expensive job. So this is where a replacement or refurbished pump is needed. Unfortunately you can only tell if your pump is suitable for rebuilding, once you've started to strip it down. This makes getting a working replacement an attractive alternative.

mattnunns · Feb 3, 2019

Thanks a lot guys, looks like I can get a refurbed pump next working day so will take it off and see how it is before I decide whether or not to attempt just seals or a refurbed pump! On another note, low pressure fuel pump is also really noisy, what size are the bolts holding the enclosure up? I’ve read they quite often need to be drilled out to get the whole assembly down, so was going to do that job while it’s off the road and replace with stainless bolts

andyfreelandy · Feb 3, 2019

While on this subect, while stripping my old TD4 for parts I found that I could not undo the hp pump hex plug. I have even tried an impact wrench with the correct hex bit. Can't shift it. I assume it is in cross thread but any one got any ideas short of taking whole cover off!!

pdpjpr · Feb 3, 2019

I just bought the replacement o ring kit for mine and I've had no problems. Once you've done it the first time it wouldn't phase you if you had to do it again.

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Sorry guys, going to do this today, the Birgitta and legit video on YouTube has the starter motor removed as well, is that nescessary? Presumably if doing that it makes sense to disconnect the battery as well?

pdpjpr · Feb 16, 2019

Most definitely disconnect, you have permanent live to the starter motor, if you don't disconnect and accidently ground the live you could be in a whole world of pain if it fries ECU etc...

Nodge68 · Feb 16, 2019

mattnunns said:
the Birgitta and legit video on YouTube has the starter motor removed as well, is that nescessary?

Unfortunately it is necessary, as there's insufficient space to remove the pump, with the starter in situ. It is just possible to get the pump out, if the HP regulator is removed from the pump first, but then there a risk of contaminants entering the HP fuel rail. So removing the starter is the safest option.

mattnunns said:
Presumably if doing that it makes sense to disconnect the battery as well?

Yes. Definitely disconnect the battery negative terminal from the battery, and tuck it well away from the battery. You don't want it making contact with main starter wire hanging free, unless you're after some unscheduled fireworks.

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Thanks Nodge, how many bolts for the starter? Can only find one, but don’t know if I’m being dense!!

pdpjpr · Feb 16, 2019

There's 2. The one you'll have undone is on the same side as the starter. The other on is a bit more awkward, it's 180 degrees opposite the first one but is accessed from the other side of the starter. The bolt screws into the back of the starter.

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Thanks, got them now! Sod’s law you work it out as soon as you post a question!

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Got to the crunch point and can’t undo the 21mm nut on the pump, removed the cover got a 21mm socket but it’s turning the engine not undoing, any bright ideas?

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Got this sorted, used a piece of wood as a Jenny against the back of the ratchet, next issue is I can’t get the part of the tool that’s inside the first collar to bolt in, it catches just but as soon as you then try to screw the bolt in that pushes the pump in, it All pops out again, any ideas?

pdpjpr · Feb 16, 2019

Is the outer part of the sprocket retainer tightened in all the way?

mattnunns · Feb 16, 2019

Yeah, think it’s a **** tool of eBay, buy cheap buy twice! The inner part won’t screw in, anyhow now seems like the pump is partly free, it wiggles but I can’t get the b****rd out!

Nodge68 · Feb 16, 2019

With the sprocket nut removed, back out the inner threaded section of the retainer, then screw the tool right in until it stops turning. Then wind the inner section in so it can press against the pump shaft to push the taper through. Make sure the pump mounting nuts are loose first though. Once the pump is free of the sprocket, you can back the inner section out again, making sure the outer sprocket retainer stays fully in to hold the sprocket securely, and remains in place until the pump is refitted.

High Pressure Fuel Pump!!

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