High praise

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MickO'CTD4

New Member
Posts
183
Location
Halifax, West Yorkshire
Hello all
This is my first post on here but I have been an avid follower of this site since buying my 53 plate Freelander TD4 in October 2008 (previous car was an Astra written off in an incident with a lorry driven by a foreigner, divine intervention I like to think;)). I have never had a 4x4 prior to the Freelander even though I have wanted a Land Rover for as long as I can remember.
Incidentally, after driving my brother in law's Series III I was close to buying a cream series III 88 with safari roof (oh yes!!!) prior to buying the Freelander. I wanted both but my wife said we didn't have the room (don't you hate it when you know they are right:(). Freelander a better option for me really. But I must say, I love the little beauty!!! :D I really have caught the bug.

Like a lot of other people viewing this site (and not posting) I just wanted to say that this forum has helped me an awful lot highlighting a few issues with the Freelander and giving good explanations on how to resolve them. e.g. a few weeks ago I had the EGR and manifold off and gave it a clean which gave an immediate improvement to the drive. I also cleaned the MAF sensor which gave an improvement (stopped that frightening pause at junctions where you think that you are going to die). I am going to get a Rover Ron module and MAF in the next couple of weeks to (hopefully) give me a bit more of a boost and better MPG , once the front bumper comes I am giving it a facelift and will be installing the crankcase breather which came today.
I do have a problem with a low MPG figure (which improved after cleaning EGR from about 270 to 360 miles from a full tank) and also white smoke from exhaust at start up, but I think that might be over fuelling due to the MAF sensor not working properly. We will see.

I couldn't have contemplated any of this if not for this forum. Not mechanically minded at all. So well done to all who give people like me a bit of confidence to DIY, reduce garage bills and protect the mechanics heads from being scratched so much.
:cool:
 
Welcome Micko. Like you say it's worth sorting out you MAF (sounds like it's well goosed) & changing your breather then checking your fuel consumption. Also use Millers Powersport 4 Diesel additive every fillup at double the recommended dose. When you first start to use it, run for about 1000 miles then get your fuel filter changed as it really cleans out all the crap in the tank & fuel system. The roverron synergy 2 is an excellent move along with an egr bypass but don't expect great fuel consumption gains as you'll find yourself enjoying the extra power. It won't hurt your economy too badly unless you boot it everywhere you go.
 
Thanks chaps for the welcome. I finally decided to take the plunge and add myself to this arena (hopefully no lions in it though).

After reading some of the posts here, I believe that you have to watch out for these tratter boys.

I took the Freelander for a service to the local garage but they didn't change the fuel filter or change the gearbox and ird oil, so will have to get this sorted out quick. I don't want a huge bill in the near future.

Where do I get the Millers Powersport 4 Diesel additive from? I have been putting injector cleaner in (not sure of what the name is) with the fuel to clean it out and along with the EGR and manifold cleaning made a world of difference to the fuel consumption but it is still low. The car drives a lot better too and would advise anyone with a Freelander to do this and also remove the valve for the EGR to stop it clogging up again. I have been looking at the EGR bypass and think I may go ahead with that also in the near future, I just couldn’t believe the amount of gunk in the manifold and EGR. It had only done 48K.

I personally think that the Freelander is very capable for what it is and meets my requirements perfectly. Loves motorway driving, was good in the snow, grass is a doddle, light off roading etc…;)
 
Changing the oil in the diffs will make a huge difference, it did in mine, drives alot smoother now. Theres no drain plug on the final drive though. The oil (or should i say liquid steel) that came out of my IRD bloody stunk, washed my overalls five times now and they still stink rotten.

IRD oil 75W/90 API GL5
FD oil 80W/90 API GL5
 
howardo said:
Changing the oil in the diffs will make a huge difference, it did in mine, drives alot smoother now. Theres no drain plug on the final drive though. The oil (or should i say liquid steel) that came out of my IRD bloody stunk, washed my overalls five times now and they still stink rotten.

IRD oil 75W/90 API GL5
FD oil 80W/90 API GL5
Click to expand...


Can I use Redline fully synthetic 75w/90 on the IRD?
 
Its a very easy job to change the oils in the engine and ird. The final drive is best to just top up as it has no drain plug.
Best to do it your self, it will mean you will be able to do it each time it needs doing and will save you alot of money.
If you don't want to do it, then better to go to an independant garage as they are cheaper than a stealership, and oil changes don't require specialist tools or knowledge.
 
Thanks Howardo and chromiumuk
I purchased a Haynes manual about two months ago and it has been like a bible to me since, it is driving my wife mad the amount of time I have my head in it. I also downloaded the RAVE cd from Green Oval which was a really good idea.

You are right by the way it would be a lot cheaper to do it myself which I am really keen to do, I can't stand paying someone else for something when more than likely I could do it myself. The problem is though my drive is sloped so it would be quite a feat to get the car level to do it safely.

Will give it a go though, should be fun.
 
Oh dear, drove up to the Lakes with the family for a short break for a three nights. Normally we would take my wife's car on any long journey (newer and more economical) but decided instead to take the Freelander. Well, after 70+ miles and with 2 miles to go to the hotel and after a lovely journey all of a sudden the cutch started to play up where I had to most of the time double clutch and a nasty grinding which sounded and felt like it was coming from the clutch in neutral and the occasional clunk.

Is this the release bearing not disengaging properly or could this just simply be the Master/ slave cylinder on its way out? Thankfully though we managed to get home with the clutch in that state but God knows how!!! My heart was racing at every junction and roundabout for 80 miles and it was horrible. Today though I got in and it was a bit stiff but managed to get the gears better.

BTW on a plus point, fuel consumption a lot better though.
 
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