Hevac/fusebox problems?

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jemj

Member
Posts
21
Location
Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire
Hi all, finally got what i thought was a decent condition 1995 DSE with reported fault of left blend motor sticking. Car drives great just need to sort out problem. Hevac control shows book and exclamation mark as expected. I borrowed a good tested set of blend motors from a mate who took them off one of his cars for me (working on his car) but when plugged into mine (not fitted just plugged in) display stays the same. Then started looking deeper into problem. I metered potentiometers on my units and borrowed units at plug whilst powering up motors with 9volt supply end to end and back again all were very close to each other so can only conclude that they are good. I have tried to get a reading on the motor supply wires without success so now suspect the controller to be at fault although all lights operate on switches when operated including fan speed. I don't have RAVE or test equipment but when checking fuses/relays I can smell burning so my next question for all you guru's out there is, can a faulty fuse box cause the fault that I have?
Thanks in advance
Dean:confused:
 
NEVER EVER plug blend motors in and switch ignition on without them being secured in position on heater. Unless you want to knacker them up that is.
 
NEVER EVER plug blend motors in and switch ignition on without them being secured in position on heater. Unless you want to knacker them up that is.
Hi Wammers and thanks for the reply. Not disagreeing with you but why do you say this? I would have thought that the feedback pot would give the signal whether the whole unit was fitted or not?
Just to add a bit more information, none of the blend motors are being powered up by my unit so I think the fault may be down to the fuse box as it smells of burning. I have taken it out and will take it to work tomorrow to de-solder the joining rods and see what i find. None of the relays looks burned but the Mega fuses all look blueish on the spades.
Thanks
Dean
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I am looking at a new fuse box for certain and then see what else I find so me being me have decided to look deeper into what has failed in the fuse box before I order one. Who knows it might be repairable and possibly to a better standard, after all the original ones are not very reliable?
In the meantime just in case my hevac problems are a separate issue any further help would be appreciated if you have had this or similar issues.
Thanks
Dean
 
Okay peeps, I have just finished resoldering the fusebox back together and just got it refitted when the heavens opened up. My next question is which is the best unit to buy as a diagnostic tool bearing in mind that I have numerous Landrover models and am likely to buy more as the years go on? I already have a Snap On Solus Pro but this can't do the hevacs so I want to buy something that will be worth the money.
Chears
Dean
 
Okay peeps, I have just finished resoldering the fusebox back together and just got it refitted when the heavens opened up. My next question is which is the best unit to buy as a diagnostic tool bearing in mind that I have numerous Landrover models and am likely to buy more as the years go on? I already have a Snap On Solus Pro but this can't do the hevacs so I want to buy something that will be worth the money.
Chears
Dean
Depends on which Land rovers, Faultmate is the only one that covers virtually all the LR range but is a tad expensive. You can add models as you want but it's VIN locked in it's basic form able to cover up to 3 vehicles of the same type or different. Non VIN locked is a lot more.
 
Wait until they are being powered, then plug them in leave them off the heater, switch the ignition on and see what happens. The advice is given for a reason. Either take it or suffer. ;)
 
Wait until they are being powered, then plug them in leave them off the heater, switch the ignition on and see what happens. The advice is given for a reason. Either take it or suffer. ;)
I didn't want to sound as though I was disagreeing with you as you obviously have a greater understanding/knowledge of them than me, I was more asking why/what might happen?
Cheers
Dean:)
 
Thanks for the replies, I am going to talk it over with a mate of mine to see if we can go halves on one between us. Has anyone had any experience with the Lynx unit as I can see many reports/ reviews of all the other units but not the Lynx?
Cheers
Dean
 
Thanks for the replies, I am going to talk it over with a mate of mine to see if we can go halves on one between us. Has anyone had any experience with the Lynx unit as I can see many reports/ reviews of all the other units but not the Lynx?
Cheers
Dean
Some recent threads on Lynx suggest it doesn't do blend motor cal, suspension cal unless you use setting blocks and the engine live data doesn't look up to much either.
Nanocom is better.
 
I didn't want to sound as though I was disagreeing with you as you obviously have a greater understanding/knowledge of them than me, I was more asking why/what might happen?
Cheers
Dean:)

The motors only have a limited travel in each direction. If they are not connected to their particular flap they will over run and may damage the internals. If they travel to far in any direction even if they are not damaged they cannot be fitted and will have to be stripped and reset to the neutral position. Motors should be in neutral position when fitted, (flat on drive shaft aligned along long edge of motor nearest to it). If it is just off that is not a problem. if a long way out they can be motored to neutral by applying 7 volts to the Brown and Black wires. Reverse polarity for opposite direction.
 
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Some recent threads on Lynx suggest it doesn't do blend motor cal, suspension cal unless you use setting blocks and the engine live data doesn't look up to much either.
Nanocom is better.

From what i hear of Lynx, yes i have to agree with that Keith. You get what you pay for. :):)
 
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