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Jnz

Member
Posts
18
Location
Northern Ireland
Hi guys need some help again connected my freelander 1 td4 2006 up to my caravan yesterday though we were going away for afew days . Checked the lights on the caravan and noticed 1 side not working . Pulled the light off and was checking with test lamp dont know if i touched something but now i have a problem.
Instrument panel not working
Windows not working
Indicators not working but emergency flashers are
I have checked all the fuses and they seem o k.
Please any help would be really appreciated
Thanks in advance.
Ps didnt get away and lost booking fee.
 
Doesn't sound to good.

First thing to do is disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and see if things sort themselves out once its connected again. This did fix an issue on my car recently where the computers were not responding.

You'll need to recalibrate the back window and enter the security code on the radio.
 
Thanks for the reply . Had the battery disconnected all last night and tried this morning still the same problem is the Windows are down cant get them up
 
First are the door locks working and does the alarm work okay if so CCU is working if not you will need to confirm first by disconnecting the battery for half an hour then reconnect. The relays may have blown as the emergency flasher works off a different one from the indicators. For the others the problems Instrument panel will be via the computer if still not working and will need a hook up from a diagnostic tool. Where all the windows working okay before as fuses are deceptive.
 
Thanks for the reply
Doors are locking but the horn beeps once
Windows not operating on any switch.
I had the battery disconnected all last night reconnected it this morning and same faults.
 
I think there is a separate block relay unit for the towing caravans, like majority of the Land Rovers of old, that could have blown and being connected up to the system maybe hindering the computer. As you say after leaving the battery off last night should reset the computer. Not to sure where it hidden but I suspect behind the dash might worth a look.
 
Sounds like it's a blown main fuse under the bonnet.
I'm assuming the caravan wiring has shorted the vehicle's power supply.
Do you have single or twin electrics on the FL. I'm assuming it's a FL1 facelift, not the FL2?
 
Last edited:
Hi guys thanks for all the help it has just started chucking it down here. Ill wait for a brake in it and try all your suggestions.
I dont think there is a relay for towing as i traced the cable and it is wired into the tail lamp loom at the rear.
Thanks charlie
 
Hi guys latest update . Took out all the fuses i could find and checked thed with tester . Took out all the relays and tested with meter . All tested ok . Also checked with icar tester it showed no faults . Anybody got any ideas? I'm at dead end migjt have to go to dealer and pay a fortune.
 
Before you pay dealer prices it may be worth reading through the Rave manual to determine what parts control what's not working on your car. Info on downloading Rave is here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

There are electrical diagrams in there. You will be able to see the exact wiring of the windows from switch to window motor. I'm sure everything routes through the CCU - eg the switches are just 'inputs' to the CCU computer - it then determines if it should respond to the request (eg ignition on or within x seconds of it being turned off) and if its good to do so will then raise the power on the window motor 'outputs'. It also shows what live feeds, fuses and relays are used - so you can test each position to see if current is getting there.

The CCU also controls such things as the locking, back door opening and back door window. If these things are working then the CCU is not completely fried - but it may be that the wiring for the windows 'pins' is. You can get a replacement CCU from a breakers - however, it will be coded to the engine ECU and your remotes. So you will need the matching engine ECU and the remotes for it - although you can get your remotes programmed into the replacement CCU at a cost. The immobiliser IR is in the key as well - so they will need sourcing and the locks - or once again program the key to the CCU. I'm not exactly sure on all of these things - so don't take what I say as the exact truth - just general guidance about issues for changing the CCU. However - if you can get a CCU cheap enough it may be worth plugging it in and seeing if your windows work! It would tell you that it is that which is faulty. You can look into it further and make decisions from that. On your 2006 car there is another separate Immobiliser computer in the mix so I'm not sure on the complete ins-and-outs. If you do try another CCU make sure it is from a very similar model - eg don't consider one from a non-facelift, petrol or a 3 door.

As for your dash not working. I'm not sure how that all hangs together. I believe there is a 'dash computer' (not its real name) - but whether that is part of the actual dash I'm not sure. People have had to change dashes before due to electrical problems with them, I know for example that @Skinny Mike has had to change his.
 
The horn sounding when you lock the car and arm the alarm is a warning to indicate that the alarm is not (fully) armed. There is a discussion on this in the Rave manual. The reasons that I know of for this to happen is that not all the doors, or the bonnet is shut - possibly sunroof. There may be other reasons. These reasons are also as the CCU interprets them as well - eg a door may be shut but if the CCU does not think its shut then the alarm will not fully arm. The door being closed is signalled to the CCU via switches on the doors - once again its possible that the circuitry for those 'pins' on the CCU has blown.
 
You can put the CCU into test mode. This then allows you to check the various circuits to see which is causing the issue. I can't remember how to put it into test mode, off the top of my head.
 
You can put the CCU into test mode. This then allows you to check the various circuits to see which is causing the issue. I can't remember how to put it into test mode, off the top of my head.
That's interesting :)

Just checked and it is described in Rave : Workshop Manual - Control Units - Description.

It lists all the outputs it tests, which are many - but not the Window Lift. Worth a go though to see what works.
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrov...cription/central_control_unit_(ccu)/page_401/
 
Hi guys sent for ccu on e bay tried to do a self test on ccu and couldn't get it to go so i am thinking its fried . Worth swapping it and if it gets the Windows up ill take it to the stealers and get it set up. I will let you know . Again thanks for the help.
Regards charlie
 
Hello
As @GrumpyGel called I shall give you my side of what might have happened.
The display binnacle/dash call it what you will, acts as a hub for the canbus system. I managed to fry mine jump starting another car. Mine took a while to die, but after 9 months of testing this that and the other, it turned out to be the display binnacle. I ordered a replacement 2nd hand unit off eBay for £30 and it's been working since.
Now I'm not saying this is what's wrong, but as your car tries to lock, it's doubtful it's the CCU, but it could be.
Order a binnacle that's from the same car, TD4 etc and same type, facelift/ pre facelift. It takes about 10 minutes to replace and you will have an immediate result. If it's that, all will be fine, if not the fault will continue.
Mike
 
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