HELP....Rocker Shaft Bolt

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Hamster97

Hamster97

Active Member
Posts
517
Location
Manchester
Can anyone here help me with a rocker shaft bolt for my 4.0 P38.
I tried the stealers but they only come in packs of 10 and aren't very cheap so here I am pleading for help lol.

Thanks in advance.
 
Cheers for that. £32 + VAT from LR (pack of 10). Steve Parker, local indy, £10.90 (pack of 10).

Now then, whats gonna go wrong here? 1/3 cheaper, does that mean they're 1/3 as good and will kill off my engine lol.
 
No, I don't think so !!!
The torque setting for the rocker shaft "Post" bolts is not that high and they are not Stretch type.
I think LR Series are based in Lancashire.
If you are REALLY stuck, you could try a local breakers I suppose to get you out of the ****e and back on the road.
 
hamster

you are a very lucky man...

i had to buy 5 from lr for £15... i now have four brand spanking shiney new ones ( oem part)left over, make me an offer and they could be yours

rob
 
Any high tensile bolt of the same length and thread form will do. No need to pay stupid prices for them. Available for a few pence from good fastener outlets. NOT HALFRAUDS.
 
Right On Wammers, agree 100%. Finding a good fastener supplier if you are not in the know can be daunting to say the least.
Deosn't matter if it's a hexagon or allen screw head as long as the thread, length and tensile strength is the same.
As usual, people think that all bolts, bulbs, wiper blades etc. are made by Land Rover !!!
Nah..Land Rover pay pennies and charge pounds for them. What has happened to good old engineering expertise and thinking ??
 
I agree and I did consider going to my local bolt sellers but I noticed the bolt has a stepped shank on it and as you said, theres the question of tensile strength.

I though £10.90 for 10 bolts was ok unlike LR's £32 + VAT.
 
I like the sig, has it stayed fixed??

I went laning today after all the rain we have had this week, man what proper range rover can do- I was amazed and I didnt get stuck once :D
 
fett said:
I like the sig, has it stayed fixed??

I went laning today after all the rain we have had this week, man what proper range rover can do- I was amazed and I didnt get stuck once :D
Click to expand...

Half and half mate. Taps (tappet tap) on startup in the morning and stays tappety for a few mins. Haven't changed the oil yet but it does have a tin of Wynns oil additive in there which doesn't appear to have made the slightest bit of difference.
A V8 classic came past me tonight while I was in my truck, sweet as a nut and not a noise except road noise from the tyres. Thats what I want mine to be like :mad:
 
gavbriggs said:
phone island 4x4 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Click to expand...

Think I used Island during my rebuild and got ****part bits (ebay ads, manufacturer wasn't listed).

If a company that sells Britpart parts willingly also sell parts listed as 'quality aftermarket', should they really be trusted.

Just to enlighten you Gav, I've had no end of problems because I used cheap (Britpart) items on my rebuild and its virtually all have to be redone with proper stuff.
 
Hamster97 said:
Think I used Island during my rebuild and got ****part bits (ebay ads, manufacturer wasn't listed).

If a company that sells Britpart parts willingly also sell parts listed as 'quality aftermarket', should they really be trusted.

Just to enlighten you Gav, I've had no end of problems because I used cheap (Britpart) items on my rebuild and its virtually all have to be redone with proper stuff.
Click to expand...

Is that because they were Britpart or because you did not follow the correct procedure. **** thin oil in an old engine and lack of proper lubrication on assembly for example, did not give your new lifters much of a chance did it?
 
EP90 for the cam and 15/40 in the sump, the thickest recommended by the manufacturer. I couldn't have given it a much better shot except use moly slip or similar on the cam although EP90 would have been enough.

Lifters sticking in (3 of em, 4 weeks apart). That my fault too? ****part!
 
Hamster97 said:
EP90 for the cam and 15/40 in the sump, the thickest recommended by the manufacturer. I couldn't have given it a much better shot except use moly slip or similar on the cam although EP90 would have been enough.

Lifters sticking in (3 of em, 4 weeks apart). That my fault too? ****part!
Click to expand...

Sorry thought there was a discussion when you first did job where you stated you were using 10W30 and asked if it was thick enough. Fitting new cams is a straight forward job most of the time but just sometimes no matter what you do they can give you problems. Using **** thin oil in an old engine is not the best way of getting the good oil pressure required by the new lifters to expand and settle in. Also they need to be copiously coated with a good lub so they can spin and bed in otherwise you can destroy both the lifters and cam in a few seconds.
 
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