Help needed for my P38 4.6 with non starting after engine rebuild

Any1 with any ideas with the following
P38 4.6 year 96
I rebuilt the top end of the engine, heads etc. I have put it all back togther, and have come across problems with starting it as the engine turns over but doesn't start. The leads are new and plugs. I have put the BeCM sync-mate in and the faults read EMS did not respond to wake up, i re-checked all the wiring and earths. I re-plugged in again and it read GEMS second wake up failure. Swithched off again and re-tried the EKA code because the alarm kepted sounding off. I tried it again and the EMS didn't respond.:doh: I'm at a loss there are no fault code displaying on the dash screen. Battery is full of charge.
Any ideas
Cheers

This sounds like the ecu is not talking to the engine, is there a missing cable to one of the sensors?

Thanks for your reply, i will have another look for a missing cable. I might have the lpg cables mixed up.

If the check engine lamp comes on at key position 2 and it cranks the BECM is fully mobilised and the Gems ecu is correctly synched to it.
Did you remember to plug in the crank sensor - rear of LH cyl head,without it there will be no sparks or fuel.

Hi, sorry for delay in my reply, have a lot on with work at the moment.
Have been out today and checked the light on the dash, and all ok.
I have checked the crank sensor which was plugged in, all ok.
I have got spark to the plugs and fuel to the rail but have not checked the fuel pump yet the relay is clicking but i can not hear pump running so will look at that tomorrow.
I have sprayed a little easystart but not a fart or a cough
It's getting a bit frustrating :doh: any ideas
thank you in advance

If it cranks and the check engine light comes on, its not immobilised. If you have sparks, it sounds like the crank sensor is ok. The crank sensor is THE one sensor that has to be working properly for the engine to start, if any other sensor fails, the ecu assumes a default value for them or uses other sensors to provide substitute data. To check the fuel pump, remove fuel cap and switch on the ignition, you should hear the pump run for about 3secs to prime the system. Are you sure the plug leads are not mixed up?. Check to see if one of the spark plugs is wet with fuel.

Try disconnecting the lpg electrics and try again

Hi all.
I have disconnecting the lpg electrics but it still no go, i will have a look at the plugs and check the leads.
Just to check is the number one plug is on the right as you look at the engine from the front ?
thanks for reply

clyde said:

Hi all.
I have disconnecting the lpg electrics but it still no go, i will have a look at the plugs and check the leads.
Just to check is the number one plug is on the right as you look at the engine from the front ?
thanks for reply

Click to expand...

Yes,then heading back are 3,5 and 7. 2,4,6 and 8 on the other bank from the front.
With a sniff of easy start and all the leads in the right place it out to fire,even if it wont pick up.

Hi all still no go
Have been out today and checked fuel pump and it's working ok.
Look at all the wiring and all looks ok.
Took one of the plugs out and it looked wet and the petrol did smell stale so put 3 gallon of fresh in
Tried with the easy start again it did pop back in the air box once but no go
At Witt's end now mite have to pass over to main dealer or set it alight
unless some one has a test book or faultmate who lives near St austell, Cornwall or any Suggestions of what to do next
thanks

Poping back in the induction, is a sign of incorrect timing (either ignition or cam timing) or possible running weak. Did you do anything with the timing chain during the overhaul?.
Also you said fuel smelt stale, never heard that before, could there be water in the fuel?