HELP needed! Donut removal/200 prop fitting

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sidewaysste

sidewaysste

Active Member
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715
Location
Nottingham
As per the title, I'm in the process of removing the rear prop and donut from my 300 series to fit the flange and prop from the 200 series. I've taken the 300 prop off but there's a cylindrical shaft coming out of the diff flange, how do I get that out to get to the nut behind to swap the flange for the 4 bolt type?
 
sidewaysste said:
As per the title, I'm in the process of removing the rear prop and donut from my 300 series to fit the flange and prop from the 200 series. I've taken the 300 prop off but there's a cylindrical shaft coming out of the diff flange, how do I get that out to get to the nut behind to swap the flange for the 4 bolt type?
Click to expand...

everyone on here will say get a puller on it, to get that out... it will take ages with a puller and is a right job.. whip ya diff out ,get it on the bench and put some gentle heat on it , and twist with grips , done in five mins... thats how i did mine after ****ing around with a puller for half hour with no luck... they are sooooooo tight , and with yours doing high miles it will be a bastard...;) try it first with a puller and see how you go...
 
I used a grinder on mine, as did Kipper & Deasy - whilst in situ.
It's the way forward if you don't take the diff out and go with 1spins idea.
 
The other guide is helpful - right up to the point where it tells you to tighten it to the correct torque setting!!! WHAT IS THE CORRECT TORQUE SETTING!?
Ahem... sorry.
 
did mine that way as , lying on a cold floor in the cold wasnt fun ... took diff out and took it to work and did it in the warm , and with ease. fook knows what the setting is , did mine with a 1/2 inch long bar, and put lock tight on it , never come undone...
 
1spin said:
did mine that way as , lying on a cold floor in the cold wasnt fun ... took diff out and took it to work and did it in the warm , and with ease. fook knows what the setting is , did mine with a 1/2 inch long bar, and put lock tight on it , never come undone...
Click to expand...
they shouldnt need loctite as they should be a self locking nut ,tight is enough
 
Thank you all! I've now gotten rid of that pesky donut. I do still get one helluva thump when I put the car in drive. Feels like a lot of backlash in the transfer box. any ideas? Also the auto box is getting very lazy at changing up and down. I'm thinking governor but can't be sure?
 
sidewaysste said:
Thank you all! I've now gotten rid of that pesky donut. I do still get one helluva thump when I put the car in drive. Feels like a lot of backlash in the transfer box. any ideas? Also the auto box is getting very lazy at changing up and down. I'm thinking governor but can't be sure?
Click to expand...

how did you get it off in the end.....:)
 
Used a big socket and a long bolt to fabricate a puller. Applied a bit of heat and bingo.
Unfortunately it now looks as if the auto box is on it's way out as it refused to select any gears earlier and now doesn't seem very good at getting the right gear. Level is good but the oil is brown and burned.... Time to do a manual conversion I think... Anyone done this?
 
I've got the pedal box & brake servo as a complete unit if you choose to go down this route, but I recommend you don't as autos are much more preferable off road in my opinion.
All down to personal preference, I guess.
 
I'm torn. I've never driven a manual V8. How heavy are the clutches? I remember my Dad's TD5 manual's gear change was not particularly sweet.
 
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