Help its going dark

One of the rear lights has stopped working,its not the bulb and its not the connector.

Its not even getting any volts to it but the other side is.

Problem i have is that mine only has the two lights in the bumper and the ones thats working has some of the red missing.

I would imagine they are ran from the same fuse so i wouldnt have thought it was that.

Where is next to check?

Fuse. If that aint it.run cable from other side and splice into the circuit

Do left and right have seperate fuses?

Just reading a h. Manual. And F11 10a is for lh and F33 10a is rh. Both fed from FL 13. 30a

flatline said:

Do left and right have seperate fuses?

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300 series does, 200 series doesn't.

needmoretools said:

Just reading a h. Manual. And F11 10a is for lh and F33 10a is rh. Both fed from FL 13. 30a

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Correct but they are for the head lamps, not side/tail.

Just reading in car while wife is shopping but info is for D2 1998 to 2004
Which I should have said but it was in the side tail and number plate lights section but could be wrong info printed in the book see pics.

needmoretools said:

Just reading in car while wife is shopping but info is for D2 1998 to 2004
Which I should have said but it was in the side tail and number plate lights section but could be wrong info printed in the book see pics.

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Ok, I was look at my fuse list.. as the OP has a 300 tdi.

My d1 300tdi is fuse2 10a for l/h sidelights..........see my gremlins thread .... Grrrrrrrrr

Did a continuity check and ot beeped so i dropped the volts on my multimeter and got a tiny reading.

All the fuses are good

flatline said:

Did a continuity check and ot beeped so i dropped the volts on my multimeter and got a tiny reading.

All the fuses are good

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As u have found out digital multimeters are not much use in automotive fault finding, use an analogue multi meter or a bulb test lamp.

I test the bulbs with my pc,how will an analogue multimeter be better than a digital?

Digital meters are not good at discriminating between inductance or other minute currents, hence your "tiny" reading. On analogue this would not even register... That's the basic reason.

I use my Taylor analogue on vehicles but also have £220 Fluke digital which gives misleading info when used on vehicle wiring, so I use the Taylor which is now 35 years old and cost £35 back then.

I see,maplins had one for a tenner with good reviews so i might invest in one.

Do you think i could have a short?

Was one of the (64) reasons why the os box failed it's last MOT. Quick wire between the bulbs and all was fixed.

Before then it was a right christmas tree.

flatline said:

I see,maplins had one for a tenner with good reviews so i might invest in one.

Do you think i could have a short?

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If it is a wiring issue its more like a break as a short to earth it would blow a fuse.

If you have checked the bulb-holder and its ok plus the earth connection is also ok then u could run a supply from the lamp that is working, temporary at first to see if the lamp illuminates, if so then install the link permanently.

The connector was a bit rusty so that was the first place i started,I've piggy backed from the working one til i get it sorted.

Ive just put my 6th and 7th seats back in which is gonna be a pain in the ass.

The plot thickens lol

My dash lights stopped working im guessing at the same time as my rear light but i didnt notice the light striaght away but now ive wired the broken light to the worki g one my dash lights have come back on. Take the wires off and they go off.

U have an earth fault on the side that was faulty, the dash illumination is only connected to one side and that is it, check both earth points on that side front foot well an around the rear light somewhere could be be hind the boot side panel I've never had to go there.

The earth on the light itself is good as im only running the sypply voltage from the working light.