Help identifying spare wiring in fuse box. Defender TD5.

Hi all, quick question, does anyone know what this spare brown connector might be for in my Defender TD5 (2000). It’s in the fuse box in front of the gear lever.

I’ve got a basic model TD5 so have a few spare connectors etc on the vehicle (no central locking, no electric windows, no heated seats (yet) no aircon etc. I thought it might be useful to know what it’s for in case I can use it and save myself some time in the future.

The red wire seems to run from/to the ignition switch and looks to be spliced into the live wire on this connector - so presumably not standard. But the brown block and the rest of the wiring looks original.

Thanks!

Right - I think I’ve been able to answer my own question. Think this is for the Aircon.

I’m going to use a switched live from this connector to run the heated seat kit that I am going to install (Exmoor trim).
I’d like to use the connector block properly for this (rather than just plugging a male connector straight into bottom part of this connector). So I need to get some male connector pins to go in the top-half of the connector - anyone know what I need to source? The plug is a “Sumitomo Brown 7-way HD250 connector” but I’m assuming there must be a standard male pin I can get that will fit?
Any help much appreciated!

Shrubby69 said:

Right - I think I’ve been able to answer my own question. Think this is for the Aircon.

I’m going to use a switched live from this connector to run the heated seat kit that I am going to install (Exmoor trim).
I’d like to use the connector block properly for this (rather than just plugging a male connector straight into bottom part of this connector). So I need to get some male connector pins to go in the top-half of the connector - anyone know what I need to source? The plug is a “Sumitomo Brown 7-way HD250 connector” but I’m assuming there must be a standard male pin I can get that will fit?
Any help much appreciated!

Click to expand...

Would be interested in how you get on with this project

raywin said:

Would be interested in how you get on with this project

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Hi Raywin. - I’m hoping to do a few electrical things soon including putting in a MUD console and some other switches, Rev counter, boost gauge. I’m considering an electric window kit as well since my arms aren’t long enough to wind down the passenger window. I’m going to try and do as much of this in one go whilst the dash is apart and I’m into the wiring. So I’m in planning stage at the moment!
I’ll post something on the seats and wiring etc when I get going.

Good luck with it all.
I think it's a good plan to do it in one go and avoid months of stress.
I have half leather heated seats in my defender but they are not connected (on my to do list) I did put a boost gauge in place of my clock, I teed into the turbo control pressure to feed the gauge, but I would recommend to try and connect into the inlet manifold if you can it then reads the real intake pressure.

raywin said:

Good luck with it all.
I think it's a good plan to do it in one go and avoid months of stress.
I have half leather heated seats in my defender but they are not connected (on my to do list) I did put a boost gauge in place of my clock, I teed into the turbo control pressure to feed the gauge, but I would recommend to try and connect into the inlet manifold if you can it then reads the real intake pressure.

Click to expand...

Thanks Raywin. Yes that’s one of my quandaries - it’s easier to tap into a wastegate pipe rather than the manifold. I might take the easy route first and do the wastegate vacuum hose and see how much difference there is between my boost gauge and my nanocom.

A restriction (like the inter cooler) will cause a pressure drop when their is a flow in the system, so you will see an offset that changes with the engine demand.
I actually decided to take the easy way with the boost connection and modify it later.

That was 3 years ago

raywin said:

A restriction (like the inter cooler) will cause a pressure drop when their is a flow in the system, so you will see an offset that changes with the engine demand.
I actually decided to take the easy way with the boost connection and modify it later.

That was 3 years ago

Click to expand...

Yes you’re right - I want the proper reading. And I don’t want it to become a job I never get round to doing.