Help discovery TD5

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Posts
14
Location
Herefordshire
Hi everyone I’ve got a td5 discovery it currently won’t start but will turn over, I’ve noticed there’s no glow plug light or engine light on dash when ignition is turned on also have m+s lights flashing and temp light is on. It’s not immobilised as I’ve tried eka code. I’ve noticed there’s 0rpm reading when turning over on diagnostics. I can’t even hear the fuel pump unless I hold the relay on. Any ideas appreciated thanks guys
Luis
 
Hi, seems that you have more than one problem there but as long as you have a diagnostic tool to read rpm start by saying what fault codes are logged in the ECM and TCM, that 0 rpm reading while cranking points to a missing crank signal which can trigger the M + S lights too and not let it start but has nothing to do with the other issues with not running pump and the temp warning... for the pump check the inertia switch circuit and F13 engine bay
 
Hi, seems that you have more than one problem there but as long as you have a diagnostic tool to read rpm start by saying what fault codes are logged in the ECM and TCM, that 0 rpm reading while cranking points to a missing crank signal which can trigger the M + S lights too and not let it start but has nothing to do with the other issues with not running pump and the temp warning... for the pump check the inertia switch circuit and F13 engine bay
Hi thanks for your reply. So far I’ve checked the inertia switch and fuse 13 both seem ok. Still no fuel pump could it be the crank sensor? On my friends snap on diagnostic computer which is up to date solus legend there are no faults stored. Which is very strange I’ve tried cleaning the crank sensor but no joy. Is there a chance it could be immobilised? The red light goes out on the dash when key is inserted and eka code still won’t get it going.
Appreciate the help
Luis
 
The immobiliser disables the starter too so not that, the crank sensor or it's circuit is the cause of the 0 rpm reading and the engine will not start start until you can read at least 250 rpm while cranking and you hear the pump running with ignition on... the other things like missing EML and glow plug lights + coolant temp light are not related unless your ECU is fubar cos for those symptoms there should be fault codes stored. I dont trust that snap-on tool too much, you should try to find somebody with nanocom or hawkeye to read the autobox ECU too cos for the flashing M+S there must be a code stored in that... without a proper diagnose it's just a guessing game. The battery should be strong as well
 
The immobiliser disables the starter too so not that, the crank sensor or it's circuit is the cause of the 0 rpm reading and the engine will not start start until you can read at least 250 rpm while cranking and you hear the pump running with ignition on... the other things like missing EML and glow plug lights + coolant temp light are not related unless your ECU is fubar cos for those symptoms there should be fault codes stored. I dont trust that snap-on tool too much, you should try to find somebody with nanocom or hawkeye to read the autobox ECU too cos for the flashing M+S there must be a code stored in that... without a proper diagnose it's just a guessing game. The battery should be strong as well
Okay I’ll see if I can find anyone near me with another diagnostic machine I live in the middle of nowhere which doesn’t help haha thanks you for the help I’ll update you on how I get on.
 
Did the vehicle run well with all the warnings working and just suddenly started to do this trick or what's the history of these faults?
Yes it ran fine before m+s came on now and then if I let battery get low. I got the ecu wet and it burnt out in the end so my idea was to get a new BCU, ECU and Auto ECU and the key fob off the breaker… I’ve fitted it all and it the fuel pump did prime at first the crank sensor did read then stopped at the same time then took the fuel pump down with it so it never started. Which is why I wondered if the crank sensor would affect fueling? all part numbers matched up on ecus and so on and central locking works and as you said it wouldn’t turn over immobilised. So I’m at a loss at the moment. Especially as the pump will work if I manually operate the relay.
Thanks
Luis
 
Seems that when the old ECU burnt some other wiring issue was present too which kicked short after the hardware replacement you did, or the old ECU was ruined by that wiring issue and now the replacement too, ugly thing.... i'd replace the main engine harness before doing other thigs if i was you cos there are too much issues there which some of them are not directly related
 
I was going to suggest checking all the Earth's, but yes, it does sound like the ECU fault has thrown up other issues ?
 
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