P38A Heater

My heater is only blowing hot out of passenger side cold out drivers side any suggestions much appreciated I have a nanocom I’ve that helps +3 new blend motors fitted

Are you sure you've got them the right way around?

pete12345 said:

My heater is only blowing hot out of passenger side cold out drivers side any suggestions much appreciated I have a nanocom I’ve that helps +3 new blend motors fitted

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Did you do a "re-calibrate blend motors" yet? It's in the Nanocom somewhere, it'll force the blend motors to go to the full length of travel and back. It'll either cure your problem, or you'll know that your blend motors have broken!

kermit_rr said:

Are you sure you've got them the right way around?

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And synchronised to the flap position when fitted.

I think if you disconnect the power, it will force a sync. If i recall.

Only every 500th start....

but does it remember the count "forever", or get reset somehow ?

I think if you unplug the motors, turn it on and off then plug back in, it will do a calibration.
If you turn the engine on with the external temp sensor unplugged, it shows -35c. If you switch off then plug it back in, it takes ages to get back to the real temp and pauses the sync back to normal while the ignition is off, inferring it has a memory. Memory persists even when the battery is disconnected. This suggests the calibration counter might also persist
That said, I've heard it do a calibration at less than ever 500 cycles so there must be some way to reset the counter

Thanks for advice will do a calibration on nanocom in the morning

kermit_rr said:

I think if you disconnect the power, it will force a sync. If i recall.

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If the flap is at one end of it's travel and the blend motor is at the other end when you fit it, how will it be able to sync. It's a long time since I did mine but I seem to remember it was possible to get the 2 parts out of position.

Datatek said:

If the flap is at one end of it's travel and the blend motor is at the other end when you fit it, how will it be able to sync. It's a long time since I did mine but I seem to remember it was possible to get the 2 parts out of position.

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Didn't think that was possible, thought it was approx 90° movement. Might be wrong too

If the calibration is away off ,its possible to snap gears n cogs in some of the blend flaps ..

Best to correctly align the gears inside the motor first. If I remember correctly, this should put the motor roughly in the central position. Then manually move the flap to the same position. Fit the motor, and wiggle slightly to align the mounting screws.

Then calibration should work if the motor & potentiometer are good.

Think for me, the motor was out of spec, even though i replaced the pot, it still failed to work properly

Tried nanocom this morning connecting to all ecus ok except hevac to try to calibrate stumped now any ideas would be helpful

are you saying it wont calibrate? (how do you know it wont?) or are you asking how to do it in nanocom?

Saying nanocom can’t connect to ecu

Mine always take 2-3 attempts to connect.

Will give it another try cheers

needs ignition on/engine running to communicate