Heater plugs replacement

I have no work at the moment and it dont look good for a while. So I might as well do a few bits on the landy. I have no idea how to replace the glow plugs on my td5 110 and I'v had a look on the web. Can anybody tell me what I need to remove first or how to go about it ? Thanks

not sure on a TD5, but on a 200..............,

yu want an 8mm socket to undo the cable clamp nut, a 9mm socket to undo the filter??? attached to the side of the head by glo-plug3 and a 10mm long reach socket to undo the glow plugs.
the glo-plugs shud be torqued to between 15 and 30 Nm.

Buster has done a photo guide for the 200tdi.

Thanks MHM so the filter is in the way (on a 200 tdi ) I dont even know what side of the engine there on yet

Jim... can we ask why you want to replace the glow plugs? Someone will give you the links to TD5 workshop stuff. They are on here for sure

woods767 said:

Buster has done a photo guide for the 200tdi.

Click to expand...

Ok I'll look again. Would the td5 be the same?

As an aside (coz i did mine today) one of the new glo-plugs had a loose centre electrode. It would rotate and move up and down within the outside collar. Is this defective, or is it just a case of tightening the clamp nut? I havent fitted it (fitted old one temperarily).

MrJC said:

Jim... can we ask why you want to replace the glow plugs? Someone will give you the links to TD5 workshop stuff. They are on here for sure

Click to expand...

I have had some starting problems and it boils down to glow plugs or more expensive ecu stuff. So I'll take out the plugs and look at them first.

Bare in mind although its a 5 cylinder engine there are only 4 plugs as cylinder 5 does not have one as there was not enough room for it in the head, so it starts on 4 (when its VERY cold) until heat moves though to 5 - but normaly it should not need the plugs unless it is VERY cold

You will need a long reach 10mm socket or box spanner for the TD5 glow plugs.
You can see them between the inlet manifold ports. Get genuine replacements as the generic ones you find on eBay dont seem to last as long.

Pull off the wires from the plugs and then use an air line to blow any ****e out of the plug seat before you start undoing them. You dont want it falling into your cylinders or stopping the new plugs seating properly.

You can reach the plugs through the inlet manifold without removing anything else although I find it easier to undo the four fuel cooler mounting bolts and ease it away from the manifold to give a bit more room.

Go easy with the plugs as they are often a bugger to get started. If they feel a bit tight then patience is the key. Undo them 1/2 a turn and then wind them in a 1/4 turn. Squirt a little diesel or 3in1 oil down into the plug seats. Undo another 1/2 turn and wind in again until they spin loose. If you break a plug off then it is a cylinder head off job to get the stub removed. Once you're sure they are completely undone them pull them out with a pair of long nose pliers. There are only four as the rear most (no. 5) cylinder does not have one because the fuel regulator is bolted to the cylinder head where the plug would normally go.

When you put the new ones in give the threads a tiny smear of copper grease or anti seize compound and tighten them to 6 ft/lb. They dont need to be any tighter than that to seal. Definitely dont tighten them more than 12 ft/lb as you can easily break them off (see previous comment) or strip the thread in the cylinder head which would be mega expensive.

Good luck and as with all things once you've done it once you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

As an aside I actually know somebody who runs a TD5 with dummy plugs that he turned on a lathe and he never has a problem starting. He's one of these minimalist peeps that dont like any wires under the bonnet unless absolutely necessary. Why he picked a TD5 is still mystery as it has wires everywhere.

Thanks Shifty will work from that cheers.