Heater o ring screw help needed.

Hello to all
O.K. all was going well to replacew the heater o rings until it ncane to undoing the clamp screw!!! It wont come undone GRRRRRRRR, I need help from you friendly folk again, Sorry, Cheers, Ian.

How much room have you got for access??
If the head is shot completely, the only option may be to drill the head off, leaving the short length of screw shank proud after you remove the flange which should come out with a good pair of vice grips.
May sound a stupid question but have you used a Philips screwdriver instead of a Pozidrive.
When you come to refit, suggest you get a Stainless cap screw (Allen screw).
I think it's either M5 or M6 around 20-25mm long and remember to put a washer under the head and some anti sieze on the threads first.
If you are removing it with the dash in place, I know how pushed for space it is you need to be a Gynacologist!!

have tried pozi and phillips, pozi first though because the other screw heads are pozi,Not a lot of room no, luckily i have fairly small hands (and am a very patiant engineer) cant get in to drill (was easy on the front brake disc screw the w/e though). I think i need to break the screw head off .I wish that air duct would come out!!!
Any more suggestions, all are welcome even if they sound obvious.
Cheers,Ian.

The duct which runs vertically can be moved away, takes a bit of brute force though-have a look on Range Rovers at the section on blend motor replacement and O ring replacement procedure.
The inlet connection of the heater matrix is plastic with a brass nut insert moulded into it, there is also a spare moulded into it in case the original strips and the clamp strap also has a matching spare hole.
Any chance of getting a pointed nose small vice grip on the head to give it a twist to start?-Another thought, is to use a Dremel (If you can get it in) and grind the head off. Would be against trying to chisel the head off as this could break the plastic inlet connection-then you are in real s**t. Gentle use of a centre punch on the rim of the head may be enough to "Crack" the screw.

Forgot to mention that the ducting will not break, it's fairly flexible and will stand a lot of pulling about yet go back to it's original shape easily.

Did you try a stubby Pozi.-the right angle cranked type worked for me cos I could get a fair amount of leverage on it.

I did think of a dremel, you can get a flexible extension for them. i will give these ideas some thought. Cheers again, Ian.

Here's a bit more info on this site Heater Matrix - RangieWiki The Range Rover Wiki

hiya ian , ive just read your post and i also have to do my o rings very soon and although iam a motor engineer by trade i have never had the pleasure of this little task however after speaking to a good friend of mine who has done the job many times over at the landrover specialists where he works , he claims by far the easiest method is to use a very long screwdriver from the front of the console or alternatively a 1/4 drive socket extension , he reckons one and half hours start to finish , i might give him mine to do anyway i hope this bit of info may help you cheers.
rick.

At last i got that nasty screw head off, took the bracket to work and drilled the old screw out What was left of it). Just got to decide what type of screw to use instead? Anyway thankyou very much for your valuble help

See my earlier post......
Use a Stainless Socket Cap Head screw which needs an allen key and you won't have this problem again. Furthermore if you use a ball ended allen key you can get them in at an angle and they will still work. Don't go overboard tightening it though as you can get loads more torque than with a screwdriver!!-from memory, I think the thread is M5 X 0.8 pitch (Standard)

Yes it is standard M5, There is also info on using a 50mm long setscrew and two nuts on that wiki site. Think capscrew would be better though, Cheers irishrover

If you have probs getting hold of the screw, drop me a PM as there's a great guy on Egay (Dead cheap & great service) and I will let you have his details.
Pleased your on a winner.
Another tip- watch the temperature sensor which clips on to the heater pipe-the clip is flimsy and snaps like a carrot if you catch it wrong.

Na should be able to get one from my local fasteners place. Cheers anyway, Your a top member.

At last, finished the job tonight, And no leaks wow. That had to be the worst job in my motoring history Even worse than doing a headgasket on a mk1 mr2! I had to helicoil the bracket in the end. Thanks again for all the suggestions and help.

Ok now you know what to do, come round to my place and do mine!!

You must be avin a laugh!!!!! I dont want to see another heater o ring again. Mind you it might have been easier if the screw wasnt siezed.

Ahh now i remember......thats why i have an 1958 Series II when all the new ones no tits up, its back to the trusty SII, at least i know i can leave it for 3 months or more and it will still start up......and i can fix things on it (a novel idea in the old days) but it seems it just didn't catch on (someone ((Dealers)) weren't making enough ££ out of them) you can fix them all by your selves, and an engine (2.25) with gearbox, starter, dynamo and all the other bits cost me under £25.......AND its £0 Tax!!

The good old days my first car (dont laugh) was an allegro superb car for fixing though, all this modern technology to help you along just gets in the way!

Glad you got it sorted,just got your PM - been on holiday down in "Cornburger" for a week,annoying the locals !