1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Welcome To LandyZone!

    LandyZone is the biggest Land Rover forum on the net. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.

    Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!

Series 3 Heater control valve makers

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by Webley1991, Sep 11, 2015.

< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
  1. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    I bought a replacement heater control valve for my Series 3, which was sold as "OEM". When it arrived, it turned out to be a Britpart.

    The Bearmach ones look absolutely identical in photos, but are a little more expensive.

    Is there anything to be gained by fitting a Bearmach one instead, or are they exactly the same item?

    Are these sold under any other brands, and are these good or bad quality?

    Thanks for any replies.
     
  2. mrchurchill109

    mrchurchill109 Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2009
    Posts:
    557
    Likes Received:
    12
    Location:
    Northeast US
    If it's the brass thing, open it all the way and have a look down the inlet.

    i recently got one from a supplier that when "open" all the way had only a small opening - well less than half the outlet pipe diameter. What the hell good is a heater with little to no water flow, I asked the supplier, who didn;t answer but promptly refunded my money.

    Have a look at yours - make sure it opens properly. THis is the bane of cheap valves - they may not leak but then again you may get squat for water flow.

    Alan
     
    FlyingPete likes this.
  3. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    It's this type of valve. I think the Brass one was for the Series 2.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. divie

    divie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2011
    Posts:
    1,068
    Likes Received:
    41
    Return it for a refund, make up a pipe and elbow and connect direct. Builders
    /plumbers merchant for parts for very little money. I can thread a pipe for you, the heater only works with the fan running and most times you need full heat.
     
  5. honolulujoe

    honolulujoe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2009
    Posts:
    6,046
    Likes Received:
    999
    Location:
    richmond surrey
    the inside diameter of that valve is tiny too I noticed when I cleaned mine out, must let through a lot less water than just a pipe would, fully intend to lose mine and do as divie suggests before the winter sets in
     
  6. samc88

    samc88 Drivels spiritual representative

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2011
    Posts:
    2,832
    Likes Received:
    53
    Location:
    Anglesey, North Wales
    Britpart do make OEM stuff ( usually it has a G at the end of the serial number
     
  7. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    Thanks for the replies.

    The box is marked OEM and it actually has a G at the beginning of the serial number.

    I did think of replacing it with a bit of threaded pipe. I have access to the facilities to do that myself. I would cut off a length, thread and bend it at 90 degrees.
     
  8. gencybay

    gencybay Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2012
    Posts:
    28,125
    Likes Received:
    20,959
    Location:
    Westminster
    Shouldn't Series III heater discussions be in the joke thread?

    G~
     
  9. honolulujoe

    honolulujoe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2009
    Posts:
    6,046
    Likes Received:
    999
    Location:
    richmond surrey
    nothing wrong with a series 3 heater, mine is warm and cosy now I cleaned all the crap out of the valve
     
    FlyingPete likes this.
  10. TooMany2cvs

    TooMany2cvs Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2014
    Posts:
    254
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Welsh borders
    I certainly expected that'd be the case, but I've been pleasantly surprised.
     
  11. divie

    divie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2011
    Posts:
    1,068
    Likes Received:
    41
    Series three heaters are not that bad. Bin the valve and give the matrix a good flush, best off the vehicle and put the hose on each pipe in turn.
    Mine is very good (82 degree stat fitted)
     
  12. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    Thanks for the replies. I fitted a 90 degree elbow and hose tail. The air coming through seems warm enough.

    For future reference: If anyone else is planning to do this, you need a 3/8 BSP 90 Degree elbow and a 3/8 BSP x 9/16" hose tail. The parts can easily be found on ebay, and work out a lot cheaper than the valve.
     
  13. ORJIP

    ORJIP Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2019
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Stroud
    Many thanks for this Webley - after having had a cold winter in the landy, I am going to swap mine out. What diameter did you go with and was the elbow male or female?
     
  14. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Posts:
    4,381
    Likes Received:
    963
    Location:
    west wales coast
    Another vote for bin the valve, even with the 2a in cab heater with the fan off and heater unit door's shut little heat reaches the cab.
     
  15. ORJIP

    ORJIP Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2019
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Stroud
    That's what I was thinking, I am just not that clear on how wide a diameter to go on any brass where - I am assuming the more hot water I can get into the matrix the better. If anyone has a view, I would be grateful.
     
  16. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    I used a 3/8 BSP male to male brass elbow fitting. 3/8 BSP is the thread size.

    The hose tail was 3/8 BSP female thread by 9/16" OD at the hose tail end. I am unsure of the internal diameter of the elbow, but the system seems to work fine.

    No noticable heat comes through into the cab when the heater fan motor is not running.
     
  17. ORJIP

    ORJIP Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2019
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Stroud
    Great, thanks. I have just ordered from a plumbing website. I noticed allot of the bends were either 12 or 14mm, I have gone with 14mm, since it is near 9/16. Keen to get as much hot water into the matrix, since the aperature on the heater valve looks tiny. Thanks again for posting. I am sure others will appreciate it.
     
  18. ORJIP

    ORJIP Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2019
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Stroud
    Hi again. Having replaced the heater valve with the brass elbow (it works a treat and as you advised, cant tell without the fan on) I have now taken the heater motor out, since it has been whinning. Having got it out on the bench, there is some play in the hamster/wheel fan. I have removed the allen key, but the hamster/wheel fan still wont come off? I placed some WD40 in there last night and tempted to add some heat today - but it wont pull off nor turn off. Having looked in the manuals, there is no detail. Any ideas
     
  19. Webley1991

    Webley1991 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2012
    Posts:
    1,612
    Likes Received:
    150
    Location:
    London
    Have just seen your other thread. It appears that your fan is metal.

    Mine was plastic and held on with a spring clip. I was able to simply pull it off the motor spindle.

    Sorry I can't offer any more advice.
     
  20. ORJIP

    ORJIP Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2019
    Posts:
    12
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Stroud
    Thanks Webley. Mine is the original metal one and I suspect motor. I have a replacement plastic one, which is not as deep, probably 8cm shorter. It is covered in rust yet works surprisingly well. The Landy was my grandfathers. He would not have spent anything on it unless he had to. I am keen to try and recondition it, yet I cant get the metal wheel off. I will try some heat. Many thanks for the reply tho. Appreciate it.
     
< Previous Thread | Next Thread >