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Heated rear window switch

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by cowasaki, Feb 11, 2016.

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  1. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    OK, I've had the landy nearly 3 years and never had a working heated window. I tested the element a couple of years ago and it was beyond repair but never got round to replacing it. I've picked up a new rear window and went to check the wiring to find that the wiring still works but the light on the switch doesn't work! The actual switch has three metal contacts but only two actually go anywhere (white & white+green). This matches the wiring diagram so it appears the 3rd contact isn't connected. Can anyone confirm this?

    If so has anyone got a spare switch so I have a little light :)

    Looking forwards to being able to see backwards :)
     
  2. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    Well after a bit of a rummage it appears that maybe my 300TDi should have had the non lighting switch because there is a warning light on the dash instead. I've lost the warning light because I fitted a TD5 dash and coincidentally the non lighting switch was replaced by a lighting one sometime in the past but because when that was done it still had the original dash and therefore the warning light the person replacing the switch didn't see the point in wiring up the third connection which looks like it should be ground. I will test this out with a 9v battery shortly......
     
  3. simonm15

    simonm15 Member

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    This is a job I need to do on my 200Tdi 90 and having done a bit of research, there is a voltage sensitive switch as well as a relay that operates the heated window. Apparently the vss fails quite often but can be bypassed I believe. I can't find the links I thought I had saved about this....

    There is a wiring diagram here:
    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/heated-rear-window.106387/
     
  4. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    The wiring is all working, it's just the warning light and it appears I was right so will add a warning light that I can see or more likely I'll just use a spare switch on the raptor dash. I'll put the heated windscreen, heated mirrors and heated rear screen next to each other :)
     
  5. Kwakerman

    Kwakerman Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't TD5 warning panel have a rear heater warning light about 4th from left on bottom row? You could use that.
     
  6. Kwakerman

    Kwakerman Well-Known Member

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    Or if you are clever :D you could add the front and mirrors to it to so you know you have a heated something on?
     
  7. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, just found it. I'll connect that up to it. Yes I could connect all three to it with 3 diodes but I'm adding the switches etc to the Raptor dash :D
     
  8. Coffeelandy

    Coffeelandy Well-Known Member

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    I have just the switch I don't have a heated rear window now nd the switch has been removed so all yours if you still want it?
     
  9. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks for the offer but I've JUST sorted it out. As mentioned above there is a telltale light on the TD5 dash (which I have wired to my 300TDi). So I've just connected the wire (which was already there but not connected!).

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Coffeelandy

    Coffeelandy Well-Known Member

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    Cool. just received my circuit tester too, as recommended by you so I'll be prodding wires this weekend!
     
  11. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    People will argue that a multimeter is better BUT a probe:

    • has no batteries to run flat.
    • can be clipped onto an earth with the probe sticking into something and seen from 10 feet away - so you could be pressing a button on the dash and watching the light in the engine bay or bad of the car.
    • It's a fast check if you are checking a multiplug as multimeters often take a short time to settle.
    • You can use it one handed because the clip goes onto a ground and you just need to use the probe then.
    • You can, at a push, stick the sharp probe end through the insulation in a wire to test the inside.

    ....and you can still have a multimeter in your toolbox for when you actually need one.

    I have £Ks worth of electrical and electronic test equipment including about 6 multimeters (one has a 6 digit display and is calibrated), a colour digital storage scope, logic analyser etc etc and the MOST used test equipment I have is the bulb test probe :D


    The heated rear window is now installed and should be working. :)
     
  12. Coffeelandy

    Coffeelandy Well-Known Member

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    Do I need to penetrate the plastic on a wire to read it or will it detect current through it?
     
  13. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    No you can push it through (so long as you have a very sharp pointed probe). I normally then just rub the wire and you can't see the hole but a tiny piece of insulation tape will sort. Don't do this unless you have to but sometimes needs must.

    I'm working on a few ideas for new tutorials. One is starting and charging and one is designing a dash/switches setup. As a relative newcomer to electrics what would you like to see?
     
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  14. Coffeelandy

    Coffeelandy Well-Known Member

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    The dash/switches set up would be ideal. Also, an explanation and correct use of relays, that has really confused me! One other simple but ideal one would be how to install an isolator. I see a lot of people asking that one. I have one pre-installed on my Landy and it's a great little security device.
     
  15. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    An isolator is quite easy really. I've found a pair of brilliant ones on ebay:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221632891109?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    They also do this one:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231418846936?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


    The reason I like these is that they can handle 300amps continuous and 1000amps for 5 seconds so they can be used to for the starter circuit happily.

    The second one is fantastic and I'm fitted one to my landy. It is a 4 position version and if you wire up your landy using my circuit for dual batteries then disconnect the starter cable and connect it to the common position on this device then connect pos1 to battery1 and pos2 to battery2 you get a multi-function switch.....

    OFF - starter disabled
    1 - start using battery 1
    2 - start using battery 2
    1+2 - both batteries locked together so both power everything including the starter.

    You can remove the red handle and then nobody can turn it so you could use this as an anti-theft device plus because this switch is not common so thieves wouldn't have one.
     
  16. Coffeelandy

    Coffeelandy Well-Known Member

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    I used these ones on the boats we had in the Marines, they are very robust! I have a deecreet hole beneath the passenger seat with a 90 degree bent lever which comes out. Very basic but it works a treat.
     
  17. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    do they have by-pass fuses?
     
  18. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    You could add one if you needed to but I'm not aware of one.
     
  19. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    need one to keep vital services running like alarms etc.
     
  20. cowasaki

    cowasaki Well-Known Member

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    If you wired it like I said then you wouldn't need to as it's only switching the starter battery OR locking them together. The vital equipment will still get power.
     
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