Heated rear window switch

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cowasaki

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,517
Location
North West England
OK, I've had the landy nearly 3 years and never had a working heated window. I tested the element a couple of years ago and it was beyond repair but never got round to replacing it. I've picked up a new rear window and went to check the wiring to find that the wiring still works but the light on the switch doesn't work! The actual switch has three metal contacts but only two actually go anywhere (white & white+green). This matches the wiring diagram so it appears the 3rd contact isn't connected. Can anyone confirm this?

If so has anyone got a spare switch so I have a little light :)

Looking forwards to being able to see backwards :)
 
Well after a bit of a rummage it appears that maybe my 300TDi should have had the non lighting switch because there is a warning light on the dash instead. I've lost the warning light because I fitted a TD5 dash and coincidentally the non lighting switch was replaced by a lighting one sometime in the past but because when that was done it still had the original dash and therefore the warning light the person replacing the switch didn't see the point in wiring up the third connection which looks like it should be ground. I will test this out with a 9v battery shortly......
 
The wiring is all working, it's just the warning light and it appears I was right so will add a warning light that I can see or more likely I'll just use a spare switch on the raptor dash. I'll put the heated windscreen, heated mirrors and heated rear screen next to each other :)
 
The wiring is all working, it's just the warning light and it appears I was right so will add a warning light that I can see or more likely I'll just use a spare switch on the raptor dash. I'll put the heated windscreen, heated mirrors and heated rear screen next to each other :)
Doesn't TD5 warning panel have a rear heater warning light about 4th from left on bottom row? You could use that.
 
I have just the switch I don't have a heated rear window now nd the switch has been removed so all yours if you still want it?

Many thanks for the offer but I've JUST sorted it out. As mentioned above there is a telltale light on the TD5 dash (which I have wired to my 300TDi). So I've just connected the wire (which was already there but not connected!).

IMG_0981.JPG
 
Cool. just received my circuit tester too, as recommended by you so I'll be prodding wires this weekend!

People will argue that a multimeter is better BUT a probe:

  • has no batteries to run flat.
  • can be clipped onto an earth with the probe sticking into something and seen from 10 feet away - so you could be pressing a button on the dash and watching the light in the engine bay or bad of the car.
  • It's a fast check if you are checking a multiplug as multimeters often take a short time to settle.
  • You can use it one handed because the clip goes onto a ground and you just need to use the probe then.
  • You can, at a push, stick the sharp probe end through the insulation in a wire to test the inside.

....and you can still have a multimeter in your toolbox for when you actually need one.

I have £Ks worth of electrical and electronic test equipment including about 6 multimeters (one has a 6 digit display and is calibrated), a colour digital storage scope, logic analyser etc etc and the MOST used test equipment I have is the bulb test probe :D


The heated rear window is now installed and should be working. :)
 
Do I need to penetrate the plastic on a wire to read it or will it detect current through it?

No you can push it through (so long as you have a very sharp pointed probe). I normally then just rub the wire and you can't see the hole but a tiny piece of insulation tape will sort. Don't do this unless you have to but sometimes needs must.

I'm working on a few ideas for new tutorials. One is starting and charging and one is designing a dash/switches setup. As a relative newcomer to electrics what would you like to see?
 
The dash/switches set up would be ideal. Also, an explanation and correct use of relays, that has really confused me! One other simple but ideal one would be how to install an isolator. I see a lot of people asking that one. I have one pre-installed on my Landy and it's a great little security device.
 
The dash/switches set up would be ideal. Also, an explanation and correct use of relays, that has really confused me! One other simple but ideal one would be how to install an isolator. I see a lot of people asking that one. I have one pre-installed on my Landy and it's a great little security device.

An isolator is quite easy really. I've found a pair of brilliant ones on ebay:

iso1.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221632891109?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

They also do this one:

iso2.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231418846936?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


The reason I like these is that they can handle 300amps continuous and 1000amps for 5 seconds so they can be used to for the starter circuit happily.

The second one is fantastic and I'm fitted one to my landy. It is a 4 position version and if you wire up your landy using my circuit for dual batteries then disconnect the starter cable and connect it to the common position on this device then connect pos1 to battery1 and pos2 to battery2 you get a multi-function switch.....

OFF - starter disabled
1 - start using battery 1
2 - start using battery 2
1+2 - both batteries locked together so both power everything including the starter.

You can remove the red handle and then nobody can turn it so you could use this as an anti-theft device plus because this switch is not common so thieves wouldn't have one.
 
I used these ones on the boats we had in the Marines, they are very robust! I have a deecreet hole beneath the passenger seat with a 90 degree bent lever which comes out. Very basic but it works a treat.
 
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