Headless wonder

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Stacked it

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Replaced the Head gasket on my 2.25 Petrol (its an early one .1958) about a year a go and I have just noticed a bit of emulsion again on the underside of the oil filler cap. Dose anyone know if there can be a residue from the previus gasket failure still in the oil ( oil changed once since) causing still a slight emulsion formation?
The engine pulls a treat and runs really nice although it breaths a bit heavy through the filler tube. I put this down to miles and 20 years standing in a field. Strangely it doesn't overheat considering that the rad is pretty knackered but it is fitted with an oil cooler so I suppose this helps.
The head is straight, but the block face was a little scratched when I last looked at it.
Is there other sorces of oil/ water contaimnation apart from the head with these engines?
Of corse I could have been a muppet and not replaced the gasket correctly but I was pretty thorough and its not the first one I've done.

Any ideas would be welcome before I either rebuild the origonal engine or just replace the gasket again.
 
HELLO mate my sii 58 swb allways used t have emulsion under filler cap untill i changed to duckams 20/50 then it seemed to dissapear,it came back the odd time but only in the winter (short runs not gettin warm when wife was using it) i took it to work a couple off times good run ,foot down,checked it ,gone,,,champion,,,,so make sure it warms up (check thermostat,poss blank of part of rad) keep up with oil changes ect +make sure it gets a good run maybe once a week,,,,if theres nothing wrong with it this should sort it ,,,,,,,,dave
 
Thanks Dave.

I'll keep an eye on it. There is no water in the sump, oil is clean so I think I keep running. One other odd thing though, is the the rad always pushes the water out when its full. Its always done this, even with the old engine. I assumed that it was just because there is no expansion tank on these old lumps so there is no where else for the water to go apart from out the overflow pipe.
Cheers again
 
Thanks fellahs, Just been out in the Bstard cos the roads are blocked round here due to work and therefore, had to go through the woods:)
Its running sweet so, if it ain't broke.....
I'll give it a service anyhow in a few weeks so another oil change should help.
 
i never bother with a proper oil change, i reckon that with the amount of oil i lose and refill every month i'm continually oil changing lol:eek::rolleyes:
I used to do that with a few junkers, but for a car I care about it's gotta be a full change, otherwise you're still leaving all the crap at the bottom of the sump and it'll accelerate the wear!!
 
I used to do that with a few junkers, but for a car I care about it's gotta be a full change, otherwise you're still leaving all the crap at the bottom of the sump and it'll accelerate the wear!!


You're dead right there!

Drain out the oil - drain out the crap with it.

CharlesY
 
No what you mean Landybird.
Exxon valdez size slicks are under every part that contains oil when parked. Despite, junking the normal gaskets and sealing with Loctite 5910 (H Duty silicone).
 
I hate oil drips.

Don't understand why Landy lovers tolerate oil drips. Sorted all the drips on my 1969 Series, engine geerbox etc...

Seals n gaskets are cheap as chips. All it takes is a little TLC.

It's simple - sort it.
 
I hate oil drips.

Don't understand why Landy lovers tolerate oil drips. Sorted all the drips on my 1969 Series, engine geerbox etc...

Seals n gaskets are cheap as chips. All it takes is a little TLC.

It's simple - sort it.


to be fair she don't drip much, don't know what she does with the oil :confused: perhaps she's a secret oil donor to other landies:p:p
 
Cheap oil contains detergent that can clog up the breathers, and this might be the cack your looking at under the cap.
I have replaced gaskets on engines and had mayo on the dipstick for months, your gasket has not necessarily blown again.
Does the top hose feel rock hard when running?, is there bubbles in the header tank?, and put a chunk of metal behind the exhaust when the engine is warm for a few seconds and see if theres loads of water forming.
RTv silicone is good to use with gaskets, stops leaks and lasts, bath calk crap doesnt last its not stable with oil.
 
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Re Dr Pepper,

You are dead right, you need the right sort of Silicone ( Heavy body) to cope with hot oil. You might have a few problems on the cooling side as water glycol under pressure is evil. Forget sealing fuel sides with silicone though - thats where you need the anerobic gasket stuff - but only rigid flanges. I used to work for Loctite so spent years telling chaps how to seal flanges.
Re- engine leaks - I don't think the gaskets are leaking, just what comes out of the breather slowly finds its way down the side of the engine and eventually on the floor.
 
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