Head Bolts

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dearot

New Member
Posts
289
is it a good idea to tighten the head bolts? to the right torque ofcourse. I heard they go a bit lose after a while
 
Aren't the head bolts of the "stretch" type which go through the block? If so, they should never be retightened as they are designed to only be used once.
I believe that is part of the new super redesigned 1.8 K series engine that it has a new bottom end. I did read about it on the Rover forum, but cant remember exactly where (signs of dementia).

before yu say anything - good mornin' Mondeo ;)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Aren't the head bolts of the "stretch" type which go through the block? If so, they should never be retightened as they are designed to only be used once.
I believe that is part of the new super redesigned 1.8 K series engine that it has a new bottom end. I did read about it on the Rover forum, but cant remember exactly where (signs of dementia).

before yu say anything - good mornin' Mondeo ;)

stretch type? so they designed to stretch? thats weird....
yes LR release a new bottom rail for 1.8 K series and a new head gasket, just like KV6.
 
I would leave well alone, I re-used the bolts after repairing the HG on the K-series, General consensus on rover and other elise forums is that the bolts can be re-used if within service limit. A new oil rail is an improvement but regarded as only necessary if increasing power in the unit. Standard 118BHP should not cause too much concern on the original k. It was a great engine to work on, the hippo is going well after using the LR HG

Check out this link

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/thecar/engine/kingk.html
 
LR supply new spec head bolts to use with the new gasket. These are fitted to a higher torque and need the new ladder.
 
dorowe said:
LR supply new spec head bolts to use with the new gasket. These are fitted to a higher torque and need the new ladder.

I think these are for 1.8 K series not for KV6, right?! I am talking KV6 here
 
another section from the above article - might be of interest - i blatantly copy it here for your bed time reading.

The K does this by, instead of using a series of bolts to close the cam carriers-to-head and head-to-block and block-to-ladder, one long bolt which goes right the way through the engine. The metallurgy of this bolt has been very carefully designed and the torqueing at 64Nm brings the bolt to its yield point. Effectively the point at which the bolt will stretch with the block under its cyclic loading, to distribute these loads very evenly throughout the block. Thus the block is relatively unstressed within the design parameters for performance for the engine, the load being carried substantially by the long bolts. This also contributes to reducing the mass of the block. The design and metallurgy of these bolts is critical to the whole design and loading that the engine sees, which has, as we shall see, has implications for some of the aftermarket tuning going on with non OE bolts.


zzzzzzzz
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
I have just been told (by QED) that the gaskets to use on a KV6 are the MG-Rover pn LVB101630 as used on the MG-ZT.

Having read the article http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/thecar/engine/kingk.html as previously mentioned, I am going to fit the remote thermostat from QED (£125), however this needs to be proved on a KV6.
Looks like its down to me! :D
The thermostat from QED, isnt for 1.8? the housing is diff to KV6. KV6 housing has 3 ingress and 1 egress. 1.8 has 2 ingress and 1 egress, looks like Y shape.
 
thats why i sent them an e-mail today saying if they guarantee it'l fit the kv6 - then i will buy one. waiting for response.

said lots of interest from the forum if they do ;)
 
Personally i am not worried about re-using the old bolts and original rail.

It will be grand with the standard output of power from the engine.

Get this, I removed head etc, cleaned all surfaces to perfection. The old gasket had the plastic locating dowels. Removed these and went to instal the new metal ones. They didnt fit in the locating holes. Only one of the holes in the head fitted the other holes were too small. 4 holes in total, 2 in the head and 2 in the block. So had to machine the steel dowels to get them to fit, didnt take diameter sizes but they were out by about 0.15mm.

If everyone from LR/Rover/powertrain etc is being nanny state and overly pedantic when it comes to engine rigidity then surely they would have provided more accurate dowels. Its a much of a muchness.

Cant speak for the KV6, plenty of discussion on the MGZT/Rover75 forum about the KV6. There is also talk of Haynes producing the manual for the Rover75 which might include the KV6 engine
 
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