Haynes manual brake bleeding

I shall be watching this post, as im in exctly the same boat except im about to just give up and take mine to the garage, as im totaly stuck and Ive tried all sugestions and nothing works...:frusty:

you have to be sure your not constantly adding air with poor master cylinder

OK there is a old time trick don't laugh but it works. face your vehicle up hill and put on jack stands. Fill brake reservoir to the top. With the cover off and leave for 24hrs and the air bubbles will find there way out.

And your wheels will be on ebay.

storm99 said:

And your wheels will be on ebay.

Click to expand...

you must be in the land of thief's

I even bought a new master cylinder (lucas) to try an cure it to no avail...

yours been twin cylinders at front ?

yes mate twin cylinders, just cant seem to get a good pedel, I cant put into words how ****ed off with it I am...

I`m in the same boat, beginning to think they are meant to be like this!!!
Really spongey, but will lock up the wheels.

yep spot on james, mine doesent seem to bite until the pedel is about 80/90% down or you give it a sharp second pump, but it will lock the wheels up...

that sounds more like poor adjustment

Hi all again i have done hundreds off these and i have an easy bleed, a vacuam bleed, a pressure bleeder and the only way i have found to get all the air out off the front brakes is to get the bleed nipple at the top, so remove the drum then the hub then the back plate with shoes and cylinders still atattched turn it 180 degress so the nipple is at the top and let it gravity feed

tis possible without going that far ,it has been done over the last 30-40 years

I have found this page:

Nick's Land Rover | Series III 109 Rebuild | » Bleeding Twin Leading Shoe Front Brakes (SIII 109″ and 1980+ 88&#8243

Which is pretty much a step by step guide on how to do it the way Matthewpink has said. Seems like a fairly sure-fire way to do it if all else fails. (I'm definitely going to exhaust all other options first though...)

right gonna try this tonight, one of the fitters at work told me the way he always got round it was to bleed brakes as normal, rear left rear right ect, then once you've done all that if there still seems to be air in the system, wedge a piece of wood on the brake pedel so its as far down as it will go then leave it for at least 24hrs but the longer the better, he says this normaly does the trick... I shall be giving this a go fingers crossed, but im not overly hopefull

Think about it logically!

Start at the wheel cylinder nearest to the master, then the next nearest, then the next nearest and then the last!

That way you are not introducing air into the part of the system you have just bled!! :doh::doh:

Jeez!!

Let us know how that goes webbedfootfenman. It'd be a miracle if it could be solved that simply.

Hate to ressurect this old thread but I had a bit of useful brake bleeding advice from my local landy specialist. Basically I don't think I'd fully understood that the air gets trapped in the cylinders, not the pipes, and this guy reckons that what he always does is take the shoes off and G-clamp the wheel-cylinder pistons in as far as they'll go, therefore leaving no space for air pockets to form. Haven't got round to trying it yet but it sounds like a sensible theory, just thought I'd share it.
Fingers crossed.

its easy enough to push the pistons all the way in without taking the shoes off.....essential on the top cylinder on twin leaders