P38A Handbrake drum contamination
- Thread starter Grrrrrr
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
@Grrrrrr do you have one?
- Posts
- 18,961
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Change of plan on Saturday. Got a cousin coming down so spannering put off until Sunday. Weather might be better too with any luck.
Have your LRT-41-013 handy.
Bit of an issue there. I just banged it down with a socket until it looked about the same as before.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Change of plan on Saturday. Got a cousin coming down so spannering put off until Sunday. Weather might be better too with any luck.
Bit of an issue there. I just banged it down with a socket until it looked about the same as before.
Fine if you got it square, should be around five or six mm below lip of case as i recall. Check seal contact area on flange if there is any sign of a groove you can reduce intrusion a little to pick up a clean surface for seal to sit on. There should an external dust seal lip on seal and an internal oil seal lip. Fill the area between those with light grease before assembly. Stops the dust lip from fretting on the flange seal O/D.
Change of plan on Saturday. Got a cousin coming down so spannering put off until Sunday. Weather might be better too with any luck.
Bit of an issue there. I just banged it down with a socket until it looked about the same as before.
Thats fine
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Anti clockwise to undo clockwise to refit. Just turn it until the lugs holding it in match the slots then it should come out.
I cant undo that button its stuck in there, I put some ptfe Teflon spray down it to loosen it, and liquid rust came out, so I think its best left alone until I replace with my new stuff, I am afraid the spring will just disintegrate if I pull it apart, its is working now at least, so that will do for now
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 19,572
- Location
- heathrow
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
It's a Land rover tool what do you expect. A bit of nylon and a lathe would see one made in an hour or so or less. All you would need to know is the output shaft diameter the rest could be extrapolated from the seal.
Thats true of most things, you know the dims and have the right tools you can make them cheap, its not complicated, I had 2 overdrive castellated nut "special" tools make for me for penny's, loaned them out to ppl and never got them back!
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
I make my own special tools, guess why i never loan them out.
- Posts
- 18,961
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
That sounds about right. I remember putting grease on it.
As far as Sunday goes I'll just take the handbrake drum off and clean it out again and try to see where the contamination is coming from. Seem to remember I took 2 days with the transfer box last time, a day taking it apart and a day to reassemble.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
a common issue with tapping those seals home is garter spring can jump off petroleum jelly packed on the inner side of seal will hold it in place
- Posts
- 18,961
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Pretty sure you warned me about that at the time!
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
- Posts
- 18,961
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Just remembered. The transfer box was refurbed from Ashcrofts so I never touched the rear seal on the transfer box, only the rear one on the gearbox. The transfer box one would have been mint from Ashcrofts.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,926
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
There is a locking tang that has to be held back before it will twist open.
Yea I did see that, and I could see it will only go the one way, but its seems to be stuck in there, didnt want to pull it apart when I see the amount of rust coming out though
