handbrake cable

looking at the picture below, arrowed in green you can see the handbrake cable adjust thingy is all squiff.
adjusted the handbrake a few days ago and the rear drivers side wheel wont lock while the passenger side does.
is this is faulty handbrake cable?

either that or shoes need adjusting

Did you adjust the rear brakes before you touched the handbrake cables?

Do you know how they need to be adjusted?

just got new shoes, rear braking is fine, the handbrake was rubbish before i even had the shoes done, so then when it got new shoes handbrake was still rubbish, i adjusted it following the haynes (very easy) handbrake is much stiffer and only takes 4-5 clicks but only because one wheel is locked and not the other.
catch my drift?

adjusted shoes or hand brake,shoes first

new shoes and spring and pins fitted,
handbrake still rubbish (about 8 clicks)
adjusted handbrake (now about 3-4 clicks) but thats only locking one wheel

If you've done the 'press the foot pedal hard 30 times' trick with the cables slack, then I'm not sure what to do next.

Is there adjustment at the back-plate end of the cable to compensate for cable stretch?

jamesmartin said:

adjusted shoes or hand brake,shoes first

Click to expand...

Do you really have to talk in riddles all the time.

Soloby Rob said:

Do you really have to talk in riddles all the time.

Click to expand...

do you really have to talk

yep done the whole 30 times trick, if one side is adjusting than surely i got a fault handbrake cable

How long have you had the car - there are 2 different handbrake cables (different lengths depending on year) and perhaps the wrong one is fitted.

First of all check the fitment of the brake shoes, make sure the pivot lever on the shoes is free and that the auto adjusters are not seized.

had the hippo about 4 months,
bit of a bastard really cos if it is the cable, i have to remove brake shoes and they have only just been done and i cant do brake shoes (i could if i tried but im stubbon lol) according to haynes manual the shoes have to be removed, or do they?

The separate L/R cables can stick with no chance of freeing them. Looks like your driver's side one is doing just that. My passenger side one suffered the same fate this year. Cost about £30 for a new cable, and took about an hour to replace, including grinding one of the bolts off from underneath as it was crudded up and wouldn't turn.

You will have to remove the brake shoes again to do the cable, but it's honestly not all that hard. Just the usual ****-bollocks spring clips/pins holding each shoe onto the back plate that cause the swearing. 15 mins once the drum's off, honest...

jamesmartin said:

do you really have to talk

Click to expand...

Yes I do. Complete with upper and lower case, and some of these too ,.?!

if only drums were see through so you could see whats going on.

so can the cable be replaced without removing shoes?

No, see my post above.

You won't get the end of the cable out without removing the shoes first.

coming back to this post if you dont mind.
starting to hear creaking noises again when breaking, still meaning to get the handbrake cable replaced as i think its shot on the OS, would this cause the creaking?

oh also, if i were to adjust the shoes using the ratchet mech, the sound will go, but only for a few days and then i would had to adjust it again, could a new adjuster be in order too?

Remove both drums , get someone to pull the lever whilst you watch the shoes.

you will be able to see if one cable is siezed or not.

it has a faulty hand brake cable i bet it rusted inside the outer cable like mine were when you have done the cables you see the box with the 2 triangles on make sure your cable is still on as you will get the 3 amigos on it is comanly known as the g sensor as it senses how fast it goes forward and the braking