Handbrake adjustment

Hi,

I have replaced the handbrake shoes on my L322. I have got the adjustment set so that the shoes are as close as possible to the drums (ie, not binding but no unnecessary travel). However, at the other end, the handbrake lever seems to pull a long way before the handbrake starts to take effect. Is there an adjustment that can be made with the cable? and if so could someone please advise where/how this can be done?

Thanks, Mike.

did you wind the adjuster up to binding, or past and then back?

Thanks for your reply. I turned the adjuster until I couldnt i couldnt turn the drum and then backed it off. I did this obviously on both sides but when you get in the car the handbrake lever will lift to about half its travel before it starts to apply the handbrake. I then decided to use the vehicle for a couple of weeks thinking the shoes could bed in a bit. I also applied the handbrake gently whilst moving at a slow speed in forward and in reverse and then readjusted the shoes again (ie, tightened until the drum wouldnt turn and then backed off a little so as not to bind) The lever situation is exactly the same. When i bought the car the handbrake barely worked. Could it be the cables have stretched? because you had to pull the handbrake on really hard to have any effect.

Cheers
Mike

When i got my L322 the handbrake was not good at all. It couldn't hold the vehicle when still in drive. I deglazed the shoes and readjusted as per the book which is, from drum lock, back off the adjuster eight clicks. It is alot better but still not good. I read that it should be fully on with seven clicks on the handbrake lever. Mine will now hold the car in drive with seven clicks. But compared to my other LR's it's pretty useless.
Not sure if it's up to MOT standard.

dont bother using it, just leave it in park ?

Ive had new shoes and discs/drums on the back and mine bites about 2/3 up the travel but still only just passed an mot don't believe theres any adjustment on the cables.

i believe that some people think its adjusted when they feel it "bite". if you think of it this way, the adjusters are a square shaft, so as they get to the corner it bites. if you go a bit more, you hit the flat and its loose again. i think you need to go past this and then back 1 flat to have it adjusted properly.

I MAY BE CORRECTED!

Just had the lot replaced due to mot fail, it is still as useless as before, but it passed! Is as useful as a chocolate tea pot, will not hold on my drive at 25 degrees, do not want to wreck parking lug, any ideas apart from change car!

Mine is pants too....failed last years MOT on it....adjusted it up to the point of binding...MOT station reported the handbrake as binding slightly when off, and just about passed with it on....when I got home I backed the adjusters off again to prevent binding and overheating the brake drums/shoes...and the handbrake is useless again.

For this MOT in May, I will consider replacing the Shoes and adjusting up again and seeing what happens....but the L322 Handbrake is pretty crap and saying that my BMW 735 Hand brake is just a useless too....

All you can do is adjust and hope!

Yes, I have a 2004 model TD6 and the handbrake is exactly the same and the MOT place also is aware of this issue but still passed it.

townsent said:

Just had the lot replaced due to mot fail, it is still as useless as before, but it passed! Is as useful as a chocolate tea pot, will not hold on my drive at 25 degrees, do not want to wreck parking lug, any ideas apart from change car!

Click to expand...

Did you not get two house bricks with the replacement parts? Oh yes, I'm back

this is well timed.

It has been on my to do list before the MOT.

As the MOT guy has to do a deceleration check I wonder if they are all stretching the cables!

I'll get on with mine soon and report back.

cheers.

The handbrake is very poor on the l322 at work we adjust them till you can go anymore on the adjuster or turn it and then back it off 8 clicks as to not cause binding.

For the mot test most l322 handbrakes will pass the test minimum is 16% most get throught with 16% to 19%.

I personally carry out the test with speeds up to 10mph knock it in neutral and apply the handbrake slowly until you are nearly stopped and then give full lever movement at near stop and then swiftly release lever if you get my drift.

Had mine done at dealers during mot 2 years ago and new discs and shoes and scraped through on 18%

My handbrake is crap as well, but looking at the number of you saying the same thing it must me par for the course. Anyway mine just passed the MOT this month, in all honesty I was expecting it to fail. My MOT tester did say that all the Rangie's he tests regarding the handbrake are a challenge.

I had this same layout in the early 80's on a Volvo 144, but it was much better than LR's attempt.

Who needs a handbrake

That is what the "P" is for on the transmission lol

Isn't it amazing? After all these years they have forgotten how to design a handbrake that works, my Nissan Xtrail handbrake was also useless.