Joe black
New Member
- Posts
- 8
- Location
- South Gloucestershire
I have what appears to be an oil leak from my Haldex is it ok to drive to a garage How far can I drive with this problem?
Haldex leak
- Thread starter Joe black
- Start date
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Joe black
New Member
- Posts
- 8
- Location
- South Gloucestershire
No worked out Is it the small 1mm /2mm hope in my dif box which has vented oil what does this mean ???
thank you for the reply I have since worked out it is from a small 2mm hole in the bottom of my diff?
If it's the tiny weep hole just behind the Haldex, then it'll be the labyrinth seal between the Haldex and diff.
This seal is designed to keep the Haldex fluid and diff oil seperate, so has a weep hole between the two fluid seal faces, with a weep hole between, for leak identification.
So it definitely needs a new seal, but if it's the diff side leaking, then it's likely the diff input bearings has failed, which will require a diff pinion bearing replacement.
If the seal is leaking through the weep hole, the diff hasn't been reconditioned correctly.
I rebuilt my own uprated rear diff, and it doesn't leak.
The seal needs to be placed in the correct place in the casing, or diff oil or Haldex fluid will leak out.
I'd question the quality of this rebuild, as the seal is the easiest part to install.
Here's the parts required to rebuild this diff.
The labyrinth seal being LR part No. LR023442.
By disassembling it and clearing all the trash, I was able to repair a dead pump. In the pump, there was around two thirds as much debris as there was on the screen. The pump will now be disassembled each time I perform a Haldex service going forward. It simply takes an additional 10 minutes, and the internals are rather straightforward with few components. Just need to take off the final torx bolt on the face the screen is mounted to. There are some springs within, so take caution.
Hi hi Nodge68,
I have the same problem think it's from the haldex side, I'll need to replace the seal after I've removed the haldex, is it simply a press in seal, any Specialist tools needed for labyrinth seal removal/replace?
I drilled a hole in the seal, and used a long bolt as a jack to pull the seal out. It's deep in a recess, so is difficult to remove any other way.
When installing the new seal, it's essential that the labyrinth is in line with the tiny weep hole in the casing. There is a measurement in the rebuild procedure, and I used a machined collar to set it at the correct depth. However there is a slightly smaller diameter where the seal outer edge seems to line up with when set at the correct depth. So as long as the new seal is set in the same position that the factory seal is placed, it should be in the correct place.
You can see the outer edge of the seal is level with the reduced diameter in this picture.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Nodge,
I removed the haldex to take a look and found the basket that holds the clutch plates has a lot if play, think this may be the problem with the failing labyrinth seal.not sure how to tighten this up, theres a plate on top and I assume this tightens to the shaft but I'm wary as it seems to be solid where it is with no room to tighten?
I removed the haldex to take a look and found the basket that holds the clutch plates has a lot if play, think this may be the problem with the failing labyrinth seal.not sure how to tighten this up, theres a plate on top and I assume this tightens to the shaft but I'm wary as it seems to be solid where it is with no room to tighten?
Attachments
The whole basket and clutch plates assy floats with about 5mm of play, told by my land rover guy this is as it should be, confirmed by another source.beginning to think the seal and bearing were not fitted properly, checked haldex pump is good,cleaned mesh filter (bit of gunk on this) and replaced haldex filter,checked for no play in the input shaft from the diff.
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saxavordian
Well-Known Member
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- 9,350
I'm not convinced that's correct. Mine doesn't float, at least I don't think it does.
