Gut Less TD5 Auto

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
cruicky68

cruicky68

New Member
Posts
53
Location
Ayr, Scotland
Hi all,

My TD5 is completely gutless, at around 2250rpm I get a vibration through the engine upto 2500-2600 rpm then it smoothes out but still powerless.

Example, slow down going up hill to allow car in front to turn right. Start to accelerate from 25-30mph foot to floor, the gearbox kicks down as normal rev's rise through the vibration section, speed does not go above 40-45 at around 3500rpm until the road levels out:eek:

I have tried un-plugging the air mass meter, I've also checked that the exhaust isn't blocked by un-bolting the down pipe from the turbo. Its a non cat engine too.

Model details are 2001 51reg TD5 GS Auto with 100k on the clock......any idea where to look next? Injector seals, new turbo?????? I've already changed the injector loom & I've cleaned out the ECU
 
No difference at all. I thought by un-plugging it the ECU would revert back to a factory setting ie. If it was knackered it would run better being un-plugged?

So if by un-plugging it makes no difference it could be the MAS meter that is the problem? Would that being knackered cause the engine to be guttless & vibrate at certain revs?
 
cruicky68 said:
No difference at all. I thought by un-plugging it the ECU would revert back to a factory setting ie. If it was knackered it would run better being un-plugged?

So if by un-plugging it makes no difference it could be the MAS meter that is the problem? Would that being knackered cause the engine to be guttless & vibrate at certain revs?
Click to expand...

If the Mass air flow meter is working correctly it measures the air going in and then adjusts the fuel accordingly.

Take your MAF sensor off and then plug the multi-plug back into it. Position it so that you can see the little element inside. Then get someone to turn the ignition on. Does the elemnt glow red? If NO, its's knackered. If yes. It's working. TD5 MAF's do play up for a past time.
 
Hi,
I had a similar problem with a 1999 Td5 Defender, and the wastegate was sticking(open?). I cured it by working the gate with a pair of pliers. The engine was transformed - I can now do 70 with ease and 80 comes a bit later! :)
 
Fit a BOOST GAUGE.

If you have LOW boost you have a problem.

Easy to fix when you know WHAT to fix.

CharlesY
 
Thanks for the replies folk's. I've just found the vibration problem........N/S/F engine mounting is cracked. I was trying to remove the turbo heatshield to get a look at the wastegate when I noticed the bloody great big crack!
Is this a common fault or I'm just unlucky again??????
Reading through the haynes bible it would appear I have to remove the turbo along with other items to get the mounting off of replacement/repair! So I'll be able to check turbo once removed!!! The joy of landrovers!!!!!
 
Hi,

I've tried to show this photo through the & I can't get it to work so I'll try this link:-
[URL="http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/cruicky68/?action=view&current=P1010013.jpg"]Crack Mounting picture by cruicky68 - Photobucket[/URL]

See the more I look at the more I'm starting to think it could be a cast mark/ridge? When you look at the edge of the casting it looks cracked. Once I've cleaned it with brake cleaner I'm starting to think it might be the casting!!!!

Does anyone else have this ridge on theirs?????

[URL="http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/cruicky68/?action=view&current=P1010014.jpg"]Cracked Mount picture by cruicky68 - Photobucket[/URL]

Both loaded I hope:doh:
 
Doesn't look anything like a crack to me, it's far too straight and precise. I think you'll find that's just the way the casting is.
 
that looks like a casting mark to me.

To see if the mounts are stuffed, view them from under the disco. there is an approx 10mm dia hole in the bottom of each one. if the rubber insert is near or touching the bottom of the metal housing (normally in excess of 10mm between the two parts) it's stuffed.

It's my understanding that the drivers side is normally the one to go as it's the side the engine the engine leans on under load
 
I've been hard at this morning trying to fix my TD5 problems. I pulled the red plug from the ECU & found it heavily contaminated with oil again. This is the 3rd time I've cleaned the plug since I've changed the injector loom. Will this get better or does the engine loom/harness need changing.

How easy is this to change & what money is involved with replacing this loom. I know this might help with my low power output but will not help with the vibration.
 
Red plug cleaned out & she is back to going like a train, power is back to normal. Still got the noise & vibration at 2500rpm tho..... I will find it!!!:doh:
 
Vibration is coming from the the torque convertor not the engine. Finally bit the bullet & put the disco into Landrover expert. He rekons the vibration is nothing to worry about & to live with it rather than get involved with stripping out the torque convertor:D

The power issues are coming from the red ECU oil contamination, so I need to keep cleaning it or change the harness
 
If you do a search there should be a thread about how to clean the loom with a funnel and a bottle of meths. Sounds tricky and a bit of time but should be cheaper then changing the whole loom.
 
DAITD5 said:
Hi,
I had a similar problem with a 1999 Td5 Defender, and the wastegate was sticking(open?). I cured it by working the gate with a pair of pliers. The engine was transformed - I can now do 70 with ease and 80 comes a bit later! :)
Click to expand...


yep i had the same problem too complete lack of power and engine would not rev as high as it normally does so had play and found the waste gate on the turbo was siezed so just a quick squirt of wet dream 40 and she has been fine ever since
 
ratty said:
If the Mass air flow meter is working correctly it measures the air going in and then adjusts the fuel accordingly.

Take your MAF sensor off and then plug the multi-plug back into it. Position it so that you can see the little element inside. Then get someone to turn the ignition on. Does the elemnt glow red? If NO, its's knackered. If yes. It's working. TD5 MAF's do play up for a past time.
Click to expand...

td5 maf sensors are coldwire sensors not hotwire they send a pulse to the ecu.a stable reading of 53.3 is correct i think
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Disco 2 TD5 white smoke at idle
Replies
18
Views
876
GaryWrench
G
dinisrosa
Defender td5 10P - no air pressure
2
Replies
38
Views
4K
dinisrosa
dinisrosa
Dave2302
Disco 2 A few issues proving difficult to resolve depite many new parts
Replies
15
Views
2K
Dave2302
Dave2302
Mph007365
1999 P38A 2.5D WHAT IVE DONE, WOULD I DO IT AGAIN?
Replies
4
Views
1K
Salisbury Nick
Salisbury Nick
R
TD5 Down on Power After Head Gasket Repair
2
Replies
26
Views
5K
Kenbo
Kenbo
Back
Top