Going to be looking at my 1st freelander

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Zigster said:
L series is the old 2.0 turbo diesel that was in the Rover 75's etc, not as sprightly as a TD4 but damn near bulletproof (and cheaper to tax too) mine is £225 for the year.
Allegedly cheaper to fix if/when they go wrong, but mine starts within a second or two of turning the key every time and purrs like a contended kitten (although it does sound like a "proper" diesel engine for a few minutes as it warms up) :D
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L series was never fitted to rover 75,s,only rover 200/400,the 75 uses the same bmw m47 engine as the td4 and 3 series
 
Spacemonkey... said:
Haha! But the L series is a good engine... so good they added another cylinder and called it a TD5. ;)


Basically, if you reverse at very slow pace and push the clutch down, the car should slow but not like it's got a handbrake on. If the car feels 'tight' like the handbrake is on, then chances are the VCU is shot. It's a quick simple test, but also they get hot after 15 miles or so if they are shot too, and of course there's Hippo's weight test.

If you find a good L series then I think you'd be happy with it. Best thing is to drive one and a TD4 then look for the 'normal' faults with both on the internet then decide. I agree the TD4 is a better engine when it's running right, but IMO they are more temperamental as well. TD4 with Ronbox is a great thing as long as everything is working. My TD4 had 11k miles and all the usual things had gone wrong with it needing 4 new injectors, all tensioner pulleys, MAF sensor, intercooler hoses, thermostat, and it had had a new clutch/dual mass flywheel and clutch hydraulics at 84k.

My L series had 150k and the only thing I did to the engine was change the fuel pump belt (simple job) and everything else was original. It's a bit more 'vocal' than the TD4 and not as powerful, but even they can be tuned. The TD4 drives like a petrol.
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Can't argue with that sort of reliability I suppose. In my experience you either get a good car/engine or a bad car/engine no matter how much people rave about them.......Just try to avoid any made on a Friday afternoon or Monday Morning!!!!!!!!!;);)

Look for service history (receipts not stamps in book) and do an MOT history check...(Its free and great for info when buying a car)

I would also say you are wise to avoid petrols in which case I agree with the tratter boys and say throw a gallon of petrol over it and put a match to it!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
THEengineer said:
L series was never fitted to rover 75,s,only rover 200/400,the 75 uses the same bmw m47 engine as the td4 and 3 series
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Ahh.. you see that's what you get for quoting people who know more than yourself .. (I know absolutely beggar all :) )

That's what I was told by someone who "knows" and so I passed on my new found knowledge... sorry to mislead anyone, I'll go sit back in my corner quietly now :)
 
Paulmitchell1984 said:
so decided to go and look at a freeelander as a new daily driver so just wanting some advise.

its a 1.8 2003 model with 129000 miles, is this too much milage for the engine? what do they usually need doing/should have had done at this point?
Head gaskets apparently been done costing £700.

also hes said the hill decent doesn't work and the abs light is on, from reading this could be the brake switch, the cables under the gator or possibly the drive shaft with abs ring for sensor on? is this right could itr be anything else?

Apart from checking boot cubby for damp, check the vcu working which not sure how to do when I go to view considering I wont have jack long bar and weights with me
is there anything else I should be aware of, check?

cheers
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Whichever engine you choose have a look underneath and make sure the vcu and both props are there, check for good tyres all the same make type size, get the seller to confirm that it is in usable 4x4 condition - makes it easier to take it back if there are any 4x4 issues.
Take a test drive and get it up to temp check for noises - a quick vcu check is to do a reverse manouver in full lock - if it feels like the brakes are on when doing this then vcu could be stiffening up. Check everything electric, windows sunroof, tailgate glass lowers a bit and tailgate opens ok ..check the central locking function of all the doors - intermittent wipers can fail, If its been raining check for leaks around the sunroof -small faults like this can be diy and good for price bargaining...if you like it.
 
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Brack said:
Whichever engine you choose have a look underneath and make sure the vcu and both props are there, check for good tyres all the same make type size, get the seller to confirm that it is in usable 4x4 condition - makes it easier to take it back if there are any 4x4 issues.
Take a test drive and get it up to temp check for noises - a quick vcu check is to do a reverse manouver in full lock - if it feels like the brakes are on when doing this then vcu could be stiffening up. Check everything electric, windows sunroof, tailgate glass lowers a bit and tailgate opens ok ..check the central locking function of all the doors - intermittent wipers can fail, If its been raining check for leaks around the sunroof -small faults like this can be diy and good for price bargaining...if you like it.
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All good advice covers everything I would look for, I would print this off and tick them off as you go around it. ;)
 
Just noticed my typo- my TD4 has 111k not 11k obviously.. anyway, don't get so hung up on extras like leather as they can be added later. Make sure the mechanicals and cosmetics are good, then you can add the seats later on, they're cheap enough and spreads the cost. If you can find a nice Anniversary L series diesel it will have all the extras they had back then. Mine was really nice.

P1030836.jpg


P1040049.jpg


P1040045.jpg
 
Spacemonkey... said:
Just noticed my typo- my TD4 has 111k not 11k obviously.. anyway, don't get so hung up on extras like leather as they can be added later. Make sure the mechanicals and cosmetics are good, then you can add the seats later on, they're cheap enough and spreads the cost. If you can find a nice Anniversary L series diesel it will have all the extras they had back then. Mine was really nice.

P1030836.jpg


P1040049.jpg


P1040045.jpg
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Same as mine but mines petrol - paid £850 for it nearly two years ago - been lovely with no engine issues :)
L series are reported bulletproof ;)
 
Zigster said:
Ahh.. you see that's what you get for quoting people who know more than yourself .. (I know absolutely beggar all :) )

That's what I was told by someone who "knows" and so I passed on my new found knowledge... sorry to mislead anyone, I'll go sit back in my corner quietly now :)
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i dont know why rover never put it in the 75 though think it was deemed to noisy as its a cracking engine
 
mikey7985 said:
Look after a BMW engine and it will look after you.....Look after a Rover engine and it will stab you in the face in my experience!!!!!!!!!! TD4 is the way forward amigo!!
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Complete rubbish where the L series is concerned!! The L series engine will outlive the TD4 by miles and won't want expensive injectors and DMFs ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Complete rubbish where the L series is concerned!! The L series engine will outlive the TD4 by miles and won't want expensive injectors and DMFs ;)
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In other words don't ride the clutch and don't run it on used chippy oil then. I have never ever had a problem with a BMW Engine.... Yes they do need to be maintained but they are so much more refined and produce more power. Perhaps I was a little harsh on the L series on reflection....... Honda wouldn't have used them if they were that bad!!!!!
 
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