glow plug testing

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hmmmm - different types of glo-plug.....

CLASSIFICATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF GLOW PLUGS
There are two types of glow plugs in view of the construction, coil type where the heating coil is exposed, and sheathed type where the coil is protected by the heat resistance pipe (sheath). The coil type was the main by the 1970s but the sheath type is now the most popular taken over all other types of glow plugs. The sheath type glow plug is divided into four groups for the heating time as follows.

[Standard Type] 20 – 25 sec to 800oC The resistance of the heating coil does not vary from temperature, and the glow plug draws the constant current.

[Quick Type] 15 – 20 sec to 800oC The coil resistance increases as the temperature goes up, and the current is almost double of the nominal current when the glow is engaged, and this makes possible to heat up quickly.

[QGS Type] Approx. 10 sec to 900oC The electronics controller and relays control the engaged time and current draw for the quick starting, and also stable running of engine and reduction of smoke at cranking.

[S.Q. Type] Max. 10 sec to 800oC The good combination of heating coil and self-regulating coil makes it possible to simplify the system and ensure the quick start.
 
Yes, the resistance will be very small, i would use a Mega, as they will measure that accurate. Most 'Sparks' will have one.

WTF Megger is a brand or an insulation resistance test slang.
Think your find my fluke 1653 is more than adequate.
 
Yes, the resistance will be very small, i would use a Mega, as they will measure that accurate. Most 'Sparks' will have one.

we likes to DIY here, most peeps probably won't have a £5 Maplin multimeter let alone a Mega/Avo/Fluke

get em out and look
 
Notice on my last post - that the "Quick" type varies the coil resistance - if that is the type the Landys use, tthen measuring resistance would be futile. Measuring Amps is likely to be better as it would be a high value.
 
Notice on my last post - that the "Quick" type varies the coil resistance - if that is the type the Landys use, tthen measuring resistance would be futile. Measuring Amps is likely to be better as it would be a high value.

clamp meter it is then, seriously a visual inspection and test is easiest reliable way.
 
we likes to DIY here, most peeps probably won't have a £5 Maplin multimeter let alone a Mega/Avo/Fluke

get em out and look

I've got 3 but only 2 of em are from Maplins picked up a robin AVM for 50p at a car boot last week Yu can borrow one of em if ya want to..





Pay ya own fooking postage though
 
I've got 3 but only 2 of em are from Maplins picked up a robin AVM for 50p at a car boot last week Yu can borrow one of em if ya want to..

post is way faster to here than Staffs, that's if the fooking plane ever gets to land
 
Dun't they do air drops??? :D

i was wondering what they would do - most of the shops were running outta food yesterday, but it was +10 at 6am so 2 foot of snow has vanished overnight, made me wonder if i'd been asleep for a week to see it all gone so quickly

flooding will be the next issue
 
Back to Gavin's original problem, if he has access to a cheapo test meter and can test ohms with it. (or even a 12v test lamp from battery to glow plug?)
Testing each glowplug resistance from nut to the head will show any open circuit ones - these will need replacing.
If the fuse feeding the glow plugs is not blown then it's unlikely that one has fully shorted.

Simple 'test and replace' will catch most faults - agree only visual inspection will show deterioration towards failure but shielded coils have much reduced the failures where the failed coils dropped into the cylinders.
Havn't seen any disintegration failures for FL's reported on here ??
Seeing it heat up is the only simple way to check it's function - but not for too long and don't hold it!!

Try the simple things first then investigate further if it don't get better.
 
hiya guys

thanks got he input, ive got an Extech 430 multimeter which i used on diaginosing electrical items etc on gas boilers.

what i think may be a good idea is to firstly buy a new set of glowplugs, then to test the ohms resistance /Amps/ volts etc on them and record the findings then to test the old ones in situ and out, then if it helps post it onto here for others.

Was also wondering will take a temp reading as the meter has an electronic thermostat built inside the multimeter, on the old one and new glow plugs.

also thanks to you guys will have a good look at the old glow plugs when i take them out to see if there is any deteriation from the injectors.

as always thanks so much guys for all the great help and advice.

i havent got anywhere near the experiance as all you other guys, but just thought that if i take everyreading if it would indeed be of any use.

all the best

gary
 
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