Glass fuse to blade fuse conversion

Hi everyone,
Been ages since I have posted anything on here but I am in the middle of doing a major interior refurb and fitting a raptor centre console so I thought perfect opportunity to get rid of the nasty corroded glass fuse holders and fit some nice new blade fuse holders.
Done the conversion today and it is a real easy job. Just chop off a pair of wires at a time from top to bottom strip a bit of insulation, fit female spade connector and connect in the same pattern as original fuse box so your picture on the cover is still relevant.
I used durite parts and I must admit it was a complete fluke but I used 2 of these fuse boxes and they fit perfectly.
http://www.durite.co.uk/itm/Blade-F...-Mounting-Fuse-Box-for-Blade-Type-Fuse/023418
You do not need to cut or reshape the panel at all just drill a couple of holes top and bottom to mount the boxes. They leave good clearance at the front and still have plenty of room for the wires to bend nice and smoothly behind the panel. The only other thing you will need is a box of female spade terminals and that's job done. Really simple job and we'll worth the effort

Matt

Did similar years ago, but used vehicle wiring products 8 way holders. Which funnily enough look exactly the same as them durite ones.
It's a nice little upgrade from glass fuses for very little cost, I was having nothing but problems before hand, all disappeared once changed.

Yeah, I was having grief with heater fuse and dash instrument fuse so with any luck that will be sorted. Just thought I would post so people who are doing the job soon know what to buy!

Matt

I used the same fuse holders as Aaron on my 90. With a bit of cutting you can fit three 8-way holders in the original fusebox panel. That deals with the 'standard' 12, plus the extra 2-way box that was there for the rear wiper/heated window, and leaves some spare slots. I used two of these for the radio fuses (originally inline fuses stuffed behind the head unit) another two for the 12S towbar socket (switched and constant power supplies) and one more for my central locking circuits. There's still some left just in case of need, and of course it all looks standard once the cover's in place

While all the metal is nice and fresh and new, you might want to put a dab of solder on the connectors where they're crimped onto the wires. I've had one or two vibrate loose over the years.

Good job anyway.

BIG thank you to Greenlanebasher for taking time to post this up.
Parts ordered and another job to crack-on with.

Try these guys too.
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/