Getting a bit hot and bothered

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T

Timmers

Active Member
Posts
72
Hi there,

I have an X reg TD5 and it's not well. New Rad, new top hose and new stat and she's still overheating. I can drive to work 8 miles and drive back home (almost a straight turnaround at work maybe 10 mins engine off) and just befoer I get home as I climb a hill the needle goes up into the red, I coast for a bit then drive slowly and need le comes back down to normal....drive for another 5 miles through the village and up the hill the other side and the needle rises again. Not all the way but almost to the red. As soon as the needle starts going up the power drops off.
New radq and hose and stat went in on friday and same symptoms. Had to put three litres of water in tank. Justbeen out today and same symptoms...havent checked on water levels as she is still hot.

NEW rad, top hose and stat? Anything else that might cause this.. Air locks? HEating blows hot and cold in car.

I've run out of ideas :( :confused:

cheers
 
-first of all make sure that the tank's cap is well tightened, then open the bleed screw and ask sommebody to rev up the engine above 1500 ... the coolant must come out with quite of pressure there...if it's just ****ing like a sick old man then the pump doesnt work

- an other suspect is the coolant temp. sensor(in the coolant outlet elbow near the turbocharger)...it manages the gauge and the ECU uses it for fueling calculations ... it's the same type with the fuel temp sensor(in the FPR) you can swap them for test...it will stabilise the gauge but if it's fubar'd will mess up the management from the fuel temp outputs...it's quite cheap(ERR2081- around 5 quid) so you better replace it to make rule this out
 
Hi Thanks for replies.

It's just taken another 2 litres. I had the bleed screw off and as the expansion tank filled up then coolant came out of the bleed. Does it matter if the bleed screw doesnt turn to a stop in its fitting? This one just rotates.

I will go and do the rev test

Cap is brand new...also fitted a new intercooler as well.
 
Ok...revved it up above 1500 and the coolant comes out about 2 inches..

Whats the definition of ****ing? :D It doesnt dribble out any way...
 
I use to lose 2L of coolant a month. Turned out one of the pipes feeding the engine was rubbing on the chassis and had created a small hole. Was discovered when the pipe was moved aside to get to part of the engine and coolant squirted out.

Fingers crossed the problem is solved and will be fixed now.

S
 
Last edited:
Hmmm.. Someone just mentioned to me a very fair point. What looks likes two inches to one person might be six to another.:amen:
 
Timmers said:
Ok...revved it up above 1500 and the coolant comes out about 2 inches..

Whats the definition of ****ing? :D It doesnt dribble out any way...
Click to expand...

a good pump must push it out harder imo...

was your engine hot or cold cos on a cold engine it might be enough the 2 inch cos it's just the flow through the thermostat's bypass valve.... try again with warm engine(when the gauge is at middle) ... it must push the coolant out harder
 
Ok...quick update.

I Still have not done the water pump test whilst hot.
I Have fitted the new heat sensor.

Today I Travelled 30 miles and the needle went into red about half a dozen times and came down again without me stopping.

The last couple of times just to try something I switched the ignition off and back on, whilst temp was in the red and whilst there was the drop in power caused by the issue, whilst I was driving. Immediatley i get the power back and the needle drops back slowly to where it should be rahther than it taking quite a bit longer without turning the engine off an on when i get the issue.
Coincidence?

Any ideas?

cheers
 
Just be careful not to get the engine in the red that much mate you could damage the head.

Are you using water?

Do you have hot air in your cab?

Also test your coolant for hydrocarbons
 
I have intermittent hot air in the cab. Although the heat controls are full on it gets hot and then cold.
Hydrocarbons. . Is that the same as a block test? Block test was fine
Cheers
 
are you sure there's no air in the system...cost that intermittent heating is a sign of it...the coolant has a certain thermic inertia... a warm liquid can't change it's temperature from one moment to an other like that... as your gauge and heating fluctuates.
 
Hydrocarbons in you coolant would show that your getting exhaust gas in to the cooling system, It's the best way of showing you if your head gasket is gone.
 
Ps Don't run you engine till you get this sorted , when your loosing power the engine so hot that it can not operate, Big bill time if you keep doing that.
 
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