Disco 2 Gearbox Oil change - a few questions
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JUKE179r
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Also... warm up the oil bottles in bucket of hot water. Makes the oil thinner/easier to pump into the gearbox and diffs.
Last edited:
ronsealdeath
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I use Smith and Allen oils in everything and they are good. I used their mtf94 in my d1 and it sorted the r380 out giving much nicer changes.
I have put in 2.5l of Smith and Allan MTF94. The bottle I bought is 5L and I can't see me using it again and with very little spare shelf space I thought I might run it for a while and then drop oil again and put the other 2.5l in. Call it a flush, the gearbox had quite a lot of **** and swarf in it. Question is... how long does it need to run to grab all the crud in the box and pass over the magnet? Would a few miles do? Not sure how the circulation of oil works in the gearbox so if anyone knows roughly how many miles should be sufficient for a flush please let me know
All my gears change nicer now, EXCEPT 4th, which sometimes just won't go in without a strong pull down on stick, its like it gets stuck half way into the slot in gate. I assume it's very uncommon to get stiff change on only one gear? If so, maybe my welding job in the selector pin wasn't good enough and I need to start all over again 
sierrafery
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Maybe the bias plate is not well adjusted cos the adjustment is with 4'th gear:
from the WSM
.....
6. Select 4th gear and move lever fully to the right
and tighten bias plate adjustment bolts to 25Nm (18 lbf.ft).
.....
from the WSM
.....
6. Select 4th gear and move lever fully to the right
and tighten bias plate adjustment bolts to 25Nm (18 lbf.ft).
.....
Thanks, no it's not the bias plate. New slick shift fitted and it's lined up perfectly, drops up and down into 3rd and 4th nicely some of the time, 3rd is always good but 4th is sometimes notchy. I suspect its the slightly imperfect shape of the selector pin (on bottom of FTC4247 yoke) after I had to weld the new pin in and grind it off. It's 95% perfect but not 100% round and uniform. Before i pull it out, drill out pin, and try again, I thought I would ask in case something else could cause the notchy 4th gear like the shaft the yoke pushes forward when stick comes back into 4th
I’m not sure how this all works as it’s not something I’ve done before. However, I’m thinking if you run it for a bit and 4th is still notchy, strip it down again and look for signs of where it’s catching on your pin, or somewhere else ???
jamesmartin
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depends on what you mean by notchy is it different engine on/off
No it's same engine on or off. I do suspect it's the gate, or should I say... my bad welding grinding on that damn pin! I was going to ask if you have any more of these and will let me send you some cash/paypal, any chance of another one to try and get right on the bench and replace once i do better second time round?! I will also buy a genuine LR pin this time, saved £2 on a non OEM one without thinking, i wouldn't normally do that. buy once, buy propply. as my mate says
