Gearbox fault

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I did try that and there was a noticeable difference with the maf disconnected. It was worse.
Check the EGR valve is fully closed and not stuck and remove the vacuum pipe from it.
A duff MAF can and does affect low end performance, there are rolling road graphs showing the effect of a duff MAF against the MAF signal.
 
Back to this issue, very slow take off and stalling when moved into drive or reverse.

Could this be related to low gearbox oil?

Noticed I have a leak on both ends on one of the rubber pipes to the oil cooler.
 
Back to this issue, very slow take off and stalling when moved into drive or reverse.

Could this be related to low gearbox oil?

Noticed I have a leak on both ends on one of the rubber pipes to the oil cooler.

It could be related to the injection pump being knackered.
 
Could be but I'm hoping not as I don't fancy buying another one of those. Had a quote of £600 to have it reconditioned

About the going rate i am afraid unless you can get one trade. Rap that around your starting problems and i think it's a fair conclusion. Does the Nano show any EDC fault codes? Like fuel flow out of range or anything like that.
 
I fear you may be right mate.. No faults coming up. I will post some screen shots of the some of the info relating to the edc tomorrow. I posted this the other day dunno if you can tell anything from it?

savujaqy.jpg
 
Just been on a trip to Blackpool about 80 mile each way without a glitch, got almost home and was driving down a hill in drive and the engine cut out and gearbox fault came up on the display. Knocked it in to neutral straight away and rolled on to a safe place to stop... Moved into park then re started and carried on like nowt has happened...

Is it heading for a Costly repair or could it be something simple?

It's a 2000 (x) DHSE auto....

Thanks

Shaun

Bit late onto this thread but I've got the same car with the same, very intermittent, fault. On mine it seems to happen on a downhill bend. I've discounted the 'gearbox fault' as I'm now convinced that it's just the first fault to be displayed when the engine cuts out. In the years I've had the car it's happened maybe six times but never when I've got diagnostics to hand.
I'd like to get to the bottom of it but I can't prove what it is and I'm not going to throw money at it. My thoughts are; worn FIP stop or crank sensor but I even wonder if it could be an electronic thing between engine and gearbox.

As I say though it's so intermittent that I'm not willing to spend money on guesses and just gently feather the throttle if I think that the road conditions are likely to cause it.
 
I have the same problem and i think that if on the overrun the edc cuts all fuel to the injectors to assist engine braking but when the speed gets below a certain speed and the gearbox tries to change into a lower gear the engine stalls and the gearbox goes into neutral and a gearbox fault comes up. nanacom does not pick up any fault.the only cure i know is to put gear selector in to position 3 for long downhill decent.
Dont know if anyone can understand my reasoning or even know what im talking about
 
I have the same problem and i think that if on the overrun the edc cuts all fuel to the injectors to assist engine braking but when the speed gets below a certain speed and the gearbox tries to change into a lower gear the engine stalls and the gearbox goes into neutral and a gearbox fault comes up. nanacom does not pick up any fault.the only cure i know is to put gear selector in to position 3 for long downhill decent.
Dont know if anyone can understand my reasoning or even know what im talking about
They stall in that situation when the torque convertor unlocks and the engine revs drop to idle. A worn stop in the FIP seems likely, or the crank sensor so when the needle lift sensor stops sending on the overrun the EDC thinks the engine has stopped and shuts down.
 
Just drove 150 mile round trip towing empty trailer there and then back with another RR on the trailer. No problems untill I got within a mile of home. Stalled twice at lights. Very low on power running like a bag of ****. One set of lights it almost stalled so I knocked it in to neutral and it idled at around 600rpm and would not rev at all. Just sat there for a good 3-4 mins then all was ok again.
 
Just drove 150 mile round trip towing empty trailer there and then back with another RR on the trailer. No problems untill I got within a mile of home. Stalled twice at lights. Very low on power running like a bag of ****. One set of lights it almost stalled so I knocked it in to neutral and it idled at around 600rpm and would not rev at all. Just sat there for a good 3-4 mins then all was ok again.
Maybe there is still **** in the fuel in the FIP and the tank.
 
It's low on fuel now so might drop tank and change pump just to see if its any better... This donor car is running sweet... For a 175000 miler... No hot start fix or anything and starts perfectly hot or cold.... I parked mine up and been using that all evening.
 
There is a method where you cut the boot floor to get to the top of the tank....easier than dropping the tank, plus once you have done it, next time you have to do it, you just unbolt the little hatch you cut rather have to drop the tank again!

Search for it...real good walkthrough and a measured template to follow also!
 
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