Gear box issues

morning all

I’m losing the will to live with my 08 3.6 fatty

I’ve had nothing but problems since owning her for the last 4 months

I’ve had rocker issues, gear box issues, wiring issues to the tune of nearly 2k

All has been well for two weeks since the non starting problem which was done to faulty gearbox safety switch

And now as I pulled in car park at work ding hdc inactive, limited gears ect

I have a permanent OBD2 Bluetooth reader in the car now and got these faults codes

U0101(00)
U0155(87)
U0126(87)
U0102(87)
U0100(87)
U0122(87)
U0101(87)
U0401(94)
U0402(94)
U0416(94)
U0403(94)
U0402(00)
U0402(00)

Can anyone help before this thing drives me insane

Thanks in advance
Paul

Most likely a Can Bus issue to the TCM or damaged wiring, or in the worst case a fooked TCM. "transmission control module".

Oh and check the Grounds, the main one from the battery i'd defo check for corrosion.

Whats the battery like just out of interest?

Start by full charging the battery with a battery charger.
Then see what happens.

Henry_b said:

Most likely a Can Bus issue to the TCM or damaged wiring, or in the worst case a fooked TCM. "transmission control module".

Oh and check the Grounds, the main one from the battery i'd defo check for corrosion.

Whats the battery like just out of interest?

Click to expand...

Brand new battery

I’ll check the grounds and if not that off to the garage again

paulh71 said:

Brand new battery

I’ll check the grounds and if not that off to the garage again

Click to expand...

The battery may be brand new but is it big enough and fully charged? The battery application charts often show the wrong battery for the P38.

Ratae said:

Start by full charging the battery with a battery charger.
Then see what happens.

Click to expand...

Thanks I’ll put it on tonight

Datatek said:

The battery may be brand new but is it big enough and fully charged? The battery application charts often show the wrong battery for the P38.

Click to expand...

It’s a L322 fatty mate, I upgraded the battery to the biggest AGM I could get in the hole
It’s only two months old, gonna give it a charge tonight just to make sure

Hi

Also what’s the voltage with the engine off, then engine running , then engine running and turning everything on to see if the Vdc drop

Don’t know how it compares but on a D3 if getting the U codes they can normally be ignored

Many thks

Ps , Daft question if i may please , does it matter fitting an AGM battery to these vehicles

gstuart said:

Hi

Also what’s the voltage with the engine off, then engine running , then engine running and turning everything on to see if the Vdc drop

Don’t know how it compares but on a D3 if getting the U codes they can normally be ignored

Many thks

Ps , Daft question if i may please , does it matter fitting an AGM battery to these vehicles

Click to expand...

I’ll have a check in the morning on voltage, I checked with my mate who area manager of euros and he recommended it, so did the AA guy who I, getting very friendly with at the moment

paulh71 said:

I’ll have a check in the morning on voltage, I checked with my mate who area manager of euros and he recommended it, so did the AA guy who I, getting very friendly with at the moment

Click to expand...

Hi Paul

Have these kind of headaches with D3s where they can spit there dummy out just from even a blown bulb

Alas I’m not very familiar with the FFRR and the Only reason I mentioned ref the AGM is there not to be charged over 14.8Vdc , didn’t know if urs reached that kind if voltage

D3s output up to around 15.6Vdc and sometimes an AGM has been fitted and caused a lot of issues

That’s the only reason I mentioned it in passing

Know the members here are extremely knowledgeable and very helpful

Indeed ref the battery voltages , because then at least u know from the start the battery / alternator are working correctly , low Vdc can as I imagine u know can cause untold problems

May i ask what make of diagnostics are u using please

Hope it’s something simple

gstuart said:

Hi Paul

Have these kind of headaches with D3s where they can spit there dummy out just from even a blown bulb

Alas I’m not very familiar with the FFRR and the Only reason I mentioned ref the AGM is there not to be charged over 14.8Vdc , didn’t know if urs reached that kind if voltage

D3s output up to around 15.6Vdc and sometimes an AGM has been fitted and caused a lot of issues

That’s the only reason I mentioned it in passing

Know the members here are extremely knowledgeable and very helpful

Indeed ref the battery voltages , because then at least u know from the start the battery / alternator are working correctly , low Vdc can as I imagine u know can cause untold problems

May i ask what make of diagnostics are u using please

Hope it’s something simple

Click to expand...

Thanks for the comment mate, I will check all the bulbs tomorrow

Just spoke to my mate at euros and he assured me it was the correct battery

I’m only using a cheap Bluetooth obd2 reader I got from amazon
Seems to work really well

paulh71 said:

Thanks for the comment mate, I will check all the bulbs tomorrow

Just spoke to my mate at euros and he assured me it was the correct battery

I’m only using a cheap Bluetooth obd2 reader I got from amazon
Seems to work really well

Click to expand...

Hi

Also meant to say, ref battery / alternator test when u have the engine running u need to do it around 1500-2000 revs, with and without things turned on

That’s good to have it confirmed ref the AGM

The only thing with cheap diagnostics is there not dedicated to the vehicle and can give false readings

For the D3 many of us use an iid made by gap, alas they are around £410 but do virtually everything that’s needed inc being able to reset the suspension / adjust height etc

Think the foxwell is another one used

Know it’s an outlay but if u intend to keep the vehicle and there very complicated it’s always worthwhile have a decent reader , plus pay for themselves very quickly

But the members here will be able to guide u better than myself

paulh71 said:

I’ll have a check in the morning on voltage, I checked with my mate who area manager of euros and he recommended it, so did the AA guy who I, getting very friendly with at the moment

Click to expand...

I'm not very familiar with AGM batteries for automotive use but this is what I read about charging them:- "AGM batteries should be charged using a charger with a mode switch for AGM type batteries. It is recommended to use a charger, current limited to 20% or 0.2C of the batteries capacity at a charging voltage of between 14.6 – 14.8V"
If that is the case, the 15.6 volts plus that some of the newer JLR products use might cook the battery.

Update

Yesterday morning went out and she was dead again

Car powers up but will not start no click nothing

Called AA and they got fault code P0850(62) which is the same fault I have had repaired (park neutral switch failure)

He cleared codes but still would not start

He had to jump the starter motor in the end so I could get to garage

On way to garage I got transmission failure, HDC failure, limited gears available etc etc

Does this mean my gear box has gone?

Thanks guys

paulh71 said:

Update

Yesterday morning went out and she was dead again

Car powers up but will not start no click nothing

Called AA and they got fault code P0850(62) which is the same fault I have had repaired (park neutral switch failure)

He cleared codes but still would not start

He had to jump the starter motor in the end so I could get to garage

On way to garage I got transmission failure, HDC failure, limited gears available etc etc

Does this mean my gear box has gone?

Thanks guys

Click to expand...

All of that suggests a lack of battery voltage. You need to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running.
I'm not convinced that an AGM battery is compatible with your car.

paulh71 said:

I’m losing the will to live with my 08 3.6 fatty

I’ve had nothing but problems since owning her for the last 4 months

I’ve had rocker issues, gear box issues, wiring issues to the tune of nearly 2k

Paul

Click to expand...

That sounds like it is exactly as it was designed?!

Datatek said:

All of that suggests a lack of battery voltage. You need to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running.
I'm not convinced that an AGM battery is compatible with your car.

Click to expand...

Hi datatek

I did ask the AA guy about the AGM and he said that it would be the battery he would put on it if he had one

Still got the old battery which is fine and holding charge, might take that down to garage and ask if they can try it

Thanks

Paul

Grrrrrr said:

That sounds like it is exactly as it was designed?!

Click to expand...

What to breakdown every two weeks

paulh71 said:

Hi datatek

I did ask the AA guy about the AGM and he said that it would be the battery he would put on it if he had one

Still got the old battery which is fine and holding charge, might take that down to garage and ask if they can try it

Thanks

Paul

Click to expand...

The AA are not very up to date in my experience. The issue is that some of the newer JLR products have smart alternators charging at around 15.8 volts, this as far as I can determine is not compatible with an AGM battery, it may be enough to cook it.

Update

Checked with europarts who checked with supplier and the battery is compatible , garage also confirmed this.

Garage cleared codes this morning and they have checked it top to toe and it starts every time now with no errors

They have said take it and run it for a few days and see what happens

It’s runs like a dream again and will do for exactly two weeks and it will all start again

I love the truck but seriously considering my future with it

Really frustrated now!