Freelander 2 (LR2) Crash Error / PCM / Subframe

Hi Everyone


So, I’ve been having a few issues with my FL2,

It first started with the steering lock not disengaging which meant i could not start the car, after trying the wiggle the steering wheel while trying to start worked once. I was able to move the car as i was helping my brother move and then it wouldn’t work again.

After some research i brought a steering lock emulator, however in this time the battery died and i couldnt remove they key so im presuming it drained, so i tried to jump start it however that didn’t work, so i charged the battery overnight and tried again.

Then everything lit up as if it was going to work, then it came up with engine system failure, HDC failure and then the crash error, my thoughts are the jump start might have messed something up.

I still cannot remove the key without a pair of pliers, however when the key is removed the key slot will eject if i put my finger in there.

So, i brought an Autell Maxi Ap 200, started off with 46 error codes, and managed to clear 9 of these.

However, I can’t clear the crash codes, I’ve attached a list of what’s left. Also, i cannot move the car, or the automatic gear stick. It’s locked in P even with the dash on

On my last MOT both subframes are heavily corroded, so i don’t think it will make the next MOT. From my initial research on subframes it is looking like around £1k + labour, so it’s a decision as to whether I spend the money on this fix or do I sell it as a non-runner, and save & look for my next FL2.

On the plus side, i now have a jump start pack, steering lock emulator, battery charger & a code reader diagnostic tool.

Your advice and help would be greatly appreciated

Code Reader Fault Findings below


2009 Land Rover New Freelander
(L359) 2009
Land Rover
New Freelander (L359)
I4DIESEL 2.2L


BCM - Body control module
B1097-14 Heated windshield relay
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B10A2-00 Crash input
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B10A2-02 Crash input
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B10A2-11 Crash input
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B10EA-14 Positive temperature coefficient heater
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B1130-87 Light switch module
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
B1C55-14 Horn relay coil circuit
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
U0100-00 Lost communication with engine control module/powertrain control module ‘A
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
U0101-00 Lost communication with transmission control Module
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
U0121-00 Lost communication with ABS control module
Permanent

BCM - Body control module
U0138-00 Lost communication with all terrain control module
Permanent

System: BCM - Body control module
U0151-00 Description: Lost communication with restraints control module.
Status: Permanent

System: BCM - Body control module
U3003-16 Description: Battery voltage
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B102E-12 Description: Air quality sensor
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B1081-87 Description: Left temperature damper motor
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation
and air conditioning control module
B1082-87 Description: Right temperature damper motor

Status: Permanent
System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B1083-87 Description: Recirculation damper motor
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B1085-87 Description: Defrost damper motor
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B1086-87 Description: Air distribution damper
motor
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
B1A69-87 Description: Humidity sensor circuit
Status: Permanent

System: HVAC - Heating ventilation and air conditioning control module
U2101-00 Description: Control module configuration incompatible
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
B1A89-1B Description: Satellite antenna
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U3000-49 Description: Control module
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
B1A89-11 Description: Satellite antenna
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U2005-31 Description: Vehicle speed
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U3003-62 Description: Battery voltage
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U3003-17 Description: Battery voltage
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U3000-98 Description: Control module
Status: Intermittent

System: NCM - Navigation control module
U3000-55 Description: Control module
Status: Intermittent

NCM - Navigation control module
U3000-87 Control module
Intermittent

NCM - Navigation control module
B1A89-13 Satellite antenna
Intermittent

PAM - Parking assist control module
U0422-00 Invalid data received from
the body control module
Permanent

RDCM - Rear differential control module
U0100-00 ( Lost communication with engine control module/powertrain control module ‘A’
Permanent

RDCM - Rear differential control module
U0121-00 Lost communication with ABS control module
Permanent

RDCM - Rear differential control module
U0138-00 Lost communication with all terrain control module
Permanent

System: RDCM - Rear differential control module
U0101-00 Description: Lost communication with transmission control module
Status: Permanent

Can't help I'm afraid.

Good advert for not buying a 'modern' box of electronics car though.

Doesn't sound like the battery is much cop if it died quickly - unless you left if for months. Might be worth trying with a known good battery - the F2 does like a very healthy battery by the sounds of it.

Did you disconnect the battery at all, eg when charging?

My simple mind would say to disconnect the battery for 24 hours and leave it charging during this time so you know it has lots of oomph. Then connect it back up. That would give time for systems to reset. I say in my simple mind - because I don't know what the likelyhood of needing codes being reentered to reenable stuff again - stereos often need codes entered, I wouldn't put these 'modern' boxes of electronics cars requiring their computers needing codes reentered.

Had a Google. Looks like you're going to need complex diag software to get rid of the B10A2 Crash input code.

Worth having a watch of this. Its a 2009 F2 with heaps of error codes including B10A2. If you've got the right gear, its a 10 minute job (assuming it just needs a reset)...



He needed to run a "Crash Status Reset" function.

Petrol or diesel FL2 TD4 ? if the later then remove the air filter box and ducting check to see if any wires have chaffed on the inner chassis arm under the air filter box.

Sounds like you bought a load of gear to get round a problem instead of fixing it. So many things tampered with I wouldn’t know where to start.

The CRASH input isn't stopping it from starting. However it can only successfully be removed with JLR SDD. The CRASH status has been set because the battery voltage has dropped to under 8 Volts while the ignition was on.

Most of the missing data codes are also caused by unstable battery voltage and possibly incorrect starting technique.

How old is the battery? The FL2 needs a really healthy battery, so anything over 4 years old is on borrowed time, especially if it's been allowed to fully discharge.

Pulling the key out the dock will damage the docking module.
Leaving the key in the dock will flatten the battery, as the computers never shut down fully.
Sounds like a lack of understanding on function of vehicles with electronic controls has caused some of these issues.

Subframes are a common issue, but can be replaced with good condition second hand replacements. The rear subframe takes about 4 hours to replace, the front about 6 hours.

Hi Nodge
The battery is about 8 months old, it started fine during the mini cold snap we had, i tried to jump start it not realising the battery was dead as i couldnt get the key out. It all started with the steering column lock not disengaging! i just didnt take into account the battery depleting, there is where i messed up i think. However its all a learning proccess i guess. I have however downloaded the JLR SDD from the other thread, and is working, i just need to to install it on my laptop now ( thought id try on the pc first). Mangoose cable was delivered today so its just the charger i need now to keep the voltage up whilst i use the software. I replied on your other thread asking a question about the PSU.

Dj-Damo said:

i tried to jump start it not realising the battery was dead as i couldnt get the key out. It all started with the steering column lock not disengaging! i just didnt take into account the battery depleting, there is where i messed up i think.

Click to expand...

How did you get the key out with a flat battery?

If the key is left in the dock for more than a day or so, even a perfect battery will discharge, after which the battery must be fully charged and refitted.
Putting jump leads on this vehicle whilst the battery is flat and the key still in the dock will cause lots of errors to be logged, as the voltage won't climb quickly like it would if a fully charged battery is fitted.

Unfortunately it's hyper fussy about its battery power.

Nodge68 said:

How did you get the key out with a flat battery?

If the key is left in the dock for more than a day or so, even a perfect battery will discharge, after which the battery must be fully charged and refitted.
Putting jump leads on this vehicle whilst the battery is flat and the key still in the dock will cause lots of errors to be logged, as the voltage won't climb quickly like it would if a fully charged battery is fitted.

Unfortunately it's hyper fussy about its battery power.

Click to expand...

I used some pliers to get it out, im aware that wasnt the best move, although i didnt really have a choice, this was after the battery was charged, however the mechansim released as if ejecting the key once i popped my finger in there. Once im all set up and ready to try fixing it ill let you now how i get on. should be the middle of next week when the PSU arrives. For now i have disconnected the battery