Galv Chassis? towbar fitting

Fitting an Extreme 4x4 quick release towbar to a Marsland Galv Chassis on me 90, I'm going to have to open up the holes a bit in the rear anti roll bar brackets on the chassis, what's the best anti-rust stuff to use on the holes after I drill the galv off?

Same for the electric socket holes in the TD5 x member, fitting the nuts on the back of that looks to be the fiddliest job ever created once the wire from the plug is through the square hole

The towbar is a good bit of kit tho

What tow bar did you. Buy for your chassis as they have. The cross member of a 110 td5 dnt they ?

Yeah it has a TD5 x-member, I had to email some pics and measure from the holes in the rear anti roll bar brackets and the back face of the x-member, mine is 13" to the back hole, they had one in stock.

I'm going to fit it with stainless hex drive screws, you don't know the size of the threads in the 6 holes in the x-member do you? Think the top 4 are M12, bottom two look M14, I want to pick them up today and I can't find my bloody glasses to measure them properly, can't see a bloody thing :lol:

Not convinced that stainless should be used for high stress loads as it is a fairly soft/weak steel. Recommend you do a bit more research before going ahead with that plan.

Kwakerman said:

Not convinced that stainless should be used for high stress loads as it is a fairly soft/weak steel. Recommend you do a bit more research before going ahead with that plan.

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+1 just stick on some 12.9s

don't use stainless, far too weak , not safe and also will cause mega corrosion as very dissimilar to chassis, use bzp (bright zinc plated) 12.9's and plenty of copperslip

cheers steve

Galvafroid paint for touching up the galv I guess.

+1 on the galvafroid, it's good stuff but stir it well first as the zinc sinks to the bottom.

Plenty of coppergrease too

stainless steel is for boats and food factories .
12.9 is extreme , just standard ht 8.8kn bolts(the chassis steel is 4.5kn) are far stronger than the chassis.

Cheers lads, all noted scrap the stainless plan then!

I'll be going to a specialist fixings supplier tomorrow, they'll get me the right gubbins for the job.

got a tin of galvafroid en route

pressbrake said:

12.9 is extreme

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fantastic pressbrake has confirmed I have n EXTREME landy lol....

and 12.9 is the 'new black'

joking aside as he said for most apps 8.8 is more than enough.... just check what your replacing n crack on

mmmm shiny bzp is for winners lol or people with ocd













cheers steve

Those are cap heads which should be of higher grade!!

Once you get to m16 size your in big trouble if it breaks!

pressbrake said:

Those are cap heads which should be of higher grade!!

Once you get to m16 size your in big trouble if it breaks!

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pressbrake u know your stuff i'm just having fun I've gone no higher than M12 ... the few above that ..... panhard, trailing arms, a frame brackets are all correct parts.... socket caps are no lower than 12.9 for the reason u suggest



sadly I have a thing for dressing up...... vehicle builds that is!!!!!!

and after visiting a very good local nut n bolt supplier I discovered how cheap it is to buy boxes of 12.9 rather than packs of 4 off ebay



either that or the guy at Feltham fasteners likes the fact I go in wearing uniform with cash?????? .... oh bugger I've only just realised why it was a bargain... ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

cheers steve

It looks nice, cap heads look good like a machine tool or a german car:behindsofa:

i hate cap head bolts ,comes from years of trying to undo tight ones

Pumpy said:

Yeah it has a TD5 x-member, I had to email some pics and measure from the holes in the rear anti roll bar brackets and the back face of the x-member, mine is 13" to the back hole, they had one in stock.

I'm going to fit it with stainless hex drive screws, you don't know the size of the threads in the 6 holes in the x-member do you? Think the top 4 are M12, bottom two look M14, I want to pick them up today and I can't find my bloody glasses to measure them properly, can't see a bloody thing :lol:

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I have the same chassis and want the same tow bar

So you just ordered the TD5 one and it's all good? Can you post some pics up when your done

jamesmartin said:

i hate cap head bolts ,comes from years of trying to undo tight ones

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+1:lol::lol: wait until he asks how to undue them when the allen wrench strips the hex:hysterically_laughi

Thor1950 said:

+1:lol::lol: wait until he asks how to undue them when the allen wrench strips the hex:hysterically_laughi

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they look really nice, but that's what worries me

you wont strip a 12.9 hex..... the allen wrench will give first..... only trouble I've ever had have been with stainless / mild steel which rust in place and round off

plus I am single handedly trying to keep copperslip afloat with the amount i'm using on the rebuild lol

bzp sockets will certainly be better than using standard steel bolts... the landrover originals were able to spontaneously rust at the very mention of water

cheers steve

cartoonhead said:

I have the same chassis and want the same tow bar

So you just ordered the TD5 one and it's all good? Can you post some pics up when your done

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I emailed extreme 4x4 to ask which one to order for mine, I didn't order a particular bar off their website, sent pics and measurements so I got the right one. I ordered some electrical bits too, and paid over the phone.

it looks exactly like the one at the top of the page here...

If father xmas brings me a new nexus I'll post some picks when it's done