Disco 2 Chassis welding advice - near rear trailing arm bracket

Hi all,

I've been weighing up how big a welding job is on my D2. Had it about 4 years. I got a galv rear on it last year but not used it much and trying to bring her back to life.
My main area of concern and this could be a deal breaker is the part in the pictures.

After digging around to see how much welding is required I've revealed a few holes.
I can do a bit of welding myself (inner sills on my Honda) but the location of the hole near where the trailing arm attaches is my main concern and in an awkward spot to weld.
The rust goes under the big bracket(not sure of its official name) that is attached to the side of the chassis. The metal on the chassis seems to thicken up as it moves away under the bracket from the right most hole I made. The metal is also solid on the other side of the bracket onwards going toward the body mount.
I'm not sure how this can be best tackled.
Do I:
a. cut the whole bracket off and reweld on after welding a new piece to the chassis side (n.b. I can't find any of these brackets new on ebay etc) or
b. cut part of the bracket off to give me access to clean and cut and weld in a piece then reweld the smaller piece back on.
c. it's fecked and my chassis is scrap
I need a new rear outrigger welding too which can be seen in some of the pics.

The bracket is about 5mm thick so I'm reluctant to cut the whole thing off as it's obviously a stress point where the trailing arm attaches. I can weld but I'm no pro.

well that looks pretty bad, so the first question is whats the other side like
and if it starting to go then its probably best to do a part chassis replacement
If you think it fixable the try this company to see if they can supply the bits you need


this company does front radius arm brakect so may make you a rear one


as for the repair looking at you photos, I think you will need to remove the radius arm braket and out rigger before deciding how much welding you have to do a rust holes are like Icebergs what you see it the tip of the problem, and chassis repair metal most companies used 3mm thick steel

it may be best to go the replacement chassis route

That looks completely rotten!
You need to carefully inspect rest of the chassis before making your mind up, probably not far behind in rusting away.

It's fooked , needs a new 1/2 chassis.

It's fooked..... buy a Toyota.

It's proper fooked ... buy a Defender

having looked at a 1/2 chassis at 1900mm long, I dont think its long enough to do the job as half chassis stop's just after the shook mount he need it longer past the radius arm mount,thats 2000-2200mm long so it looks like a full chassis replacement