Steve Ashworth
Active Member
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- 419
Should you be able to hear the fuel pump when ignition is turned?
Where is the best place to listen?
Cheers,
Steve
Where is the best place to listen?
Cheers,
Steve
Fuel Pump??
- Thread starter Steve Ashworth
- Start date
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- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
The pump is in the tank.
magictiny
New Member
- Posts
- 435
- Location
- Billingshurst, West Sussex
So you will need to be underneath with a stethoscope whilst you turn the ignition on...
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
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- 419
thanks, really helpful
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Steve on the fuel rail there is a tyre type valve. With ignition on get a rag near valve and depress pin in middle of it. You should get petrol ****ing out at pressure, if not pump is Fooked.
magictiny
New Member
- Posts
- 435
- Location
- Billingshurst, West Sussex
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
- Posts
- 419
Thanks Wammers - I will try to find it.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Maybe a better way is to push valve in with ignition off. And depressurise system, if there is anything to depressurise. Then get someone to switch ignition on whilst you press the valve, if it then squirts all over you the pump is working. This is where a garage would connect a pressure gauge to check pump.
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
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- 419
Thanks Wammers - I cant fing this valve...
I have had the P38 in at a local Independant Garage who work on Landies etc. They could not find a fault so I've got it back unrepaired. They did say that when it wouldnt run they could hear the fuel pump when ignition turned so they dont think its the fuel pump as in their experience when the fuel pump fails it wont run at all.
They plugged it into an Autologic diagnostic system but found no faults.
I drove it home, about 5 miles, and it seemed OK. Parked up, turned off and tried to start - it wouldn't. Left it 40 mins and started no problem.
I am completely baffled!
Help
Desparate member
I have had the P38 in at a local Independant Garage who work on Landies etc. They could not find a fault so I've got it back unrepaired. They did say that when it wouldnt run they could hear the fuel pump when ignition turned so they dont think its the fuel pump as in their experience when the fuel pump fails it wont run at all.
They plugged it into an Autologic diagnostic system but found no faults.
I drove it home, about 5 miles, and it seemed OK. Parked up, turned off and tried to start - it wouldn't. Left it 40 mins and started no problem.
I am completely baffled!
Help
Desparate member
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
You could try changing the ECU temp sensor. Blue in colour as opposed to brown for dash gauge sensor. This controls fueling over the temp range. Might be worth a try for £12.00 to £15.00. Cold or hot start problems it's the first thing i would look at.
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
- Posts
- 419
Thanks,
Where will I find this and what does it look like?
Cheers
Where will I find this and what does it look like?
Cheers
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Suggest you get a copy of RAVE if you have not got one. That will guide you to it's location. Access depends on the year of your vehicle. Have a look from front of car left hand top front of manifold you should see it. After 1999 you have to remove alternator.
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
- Posts
- 419
Thanks Wammers,
Its a 2001 so I guess I'll have to remove the alternator.
Cheers,
Steve
Its a 2001 so I guess I'll have to remove the alternator.
Cheers,
Steve
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Yes when you get to it you will see two sensors. The taller one on the left with the multi plug is the one you need to look at.
Steve Elliott
New Member
- Posts
- 19
My fuel pump went when I ran out of petrol, its awful to drop the tank, infact i could only get four out of five nuts undone. cut the floor, I did eventually, cos even if you can drop the tank you wont have room to remove the fuel lines as they will be corroded to hell. By cutting the floor you have room to manouver, I found a page on the web of a guy who did it in the US and followed what he did although I had to cut further forward than he suggested. Cut a U shape about 10 to 12 inches square with the top of the virticalsas close to where the metal starts to go down towards the footwells, just be aware that there are pipes on the right hand virtical side no rthat far below the floor. I used an airdrill and a junior hacksaw blade(lots actually) with the end snapped off took a couple of hours to do still got the scars a month later but the metal is soft and bends easy enough, change the pump bend it back down silocon sealer and duct tape job done my pump cost me just over £60 inc postage new from fleebay
SpudH
Well-Known Member
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- 1,256
- Location
- County Kerry, Ireland
There was a top class post a week or so ago with a full step by step photo instruction including dimensions of how to get at the pump through the floor.
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
- Posts
- 419
Thanks guys but I dont think it's the fuel pump. Can hear it for a few secs when ignition turned on and Faultmate reads good pressure. Two error codes are now shown.
PXXXX = PERMANENT VOLTAGE SUPPLY FAULT DRIVE CYCLE A, WHICH HAS OCCURED ONCE
(SIGNAL TOO LOW, THE FAULT IS CURRENTLY NOT PRESENT, THIS FAULT DOES NOT GIVE MIL LAMP ACTIVATION, THE FAULT HAS BEEN DETERMINED AS PERSISTENTLY PRESENT).
P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C, WHICH HAS OCCURED ONCE
(SIGNAL TOO HIGH, THE FAULT IS CURRENTLY NOT PRESENT, THIS FAULT DOES NOT GIVE MIL LAMP ACTIVATION, THE FAULT HAS BEEN DETERMINED AS PERSISTENTLY PRESENT).
Unfortunately I dont know what they mean.
Steve
PXXXX = PERMANENT VOLTAGE SUPPLY FAULT DRIVE CYCLE A, WHICH HAS OCCURED ONCE
(SIGNAL TOO LOW, THE FAULT IS CURRENTLY NOT PRESENT, THIS FAULT DOES NOT GIVE MIL LAMP ACTIVATION, THE FAULT HAS BEEN DETERMINED AS PERSISTENTLY PRESENT).
P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C, WHICH HAS OCCURED ONCE
(SIGNAL TOO HIGH, THE FAULT IS CURRENTLY NOT PRESENT, THIS FAULT DOES NOT GIVE MIL LAMP ACTIVATION, THE FAULT HAS BEEN DETERMINED AS PERSISTENTLY PRESENT).
Unfortunately I dont know what they mean.
Steve
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Wonder if it's the ECU temp sender not functioning correctly. Mixture adapion seems to point that way. Change the sender see what you get.
Steve Ashworth
Active Member
- Posts
- 419
Thanks Wammers,
I think I am going to admit defeat and go to main stealers. It will probably be cheaper than changing parts until I get a fix as I am unable to diagnose the fault.
It's not what I want to do but I can't use the car as it is as it breaks down every time...
Steve
I think I am going to admit defeat and go to main stealers. It will probably be cheaper than changing parts until I get a fix as I am unable to diagnose the fault.
It's not what I want to do but I can't use the car as it is as it breaks down every time...
Steve
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Your going to be really ****ed off if it's a £12.00 temp sensor after all this. It may not be, but if someone brought a ECU controlled engine to me and said it won't start cold or it starts cold but won't start hot that is the first thing i would look at. 95% of the time that is what it will be. But you pays your money and takes your choice.
