Fuel Injector driver open circuit Bank 1 and 2 PO62D / PO62E

GerRRSportV8 said:

Yea there sure is lol, cam rushing home like Usain Bolt

codes come back which I expected.

Recovering from work a mechanic carried oht, left it non start.

Wondering if I need a new loom or ECU

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thks mate

oh didn’t realise that , so mechanic left u in the crap then

Ref the loom or ecu



have u removed the loom connector where it connects onto the ecm plse ,, not out the landy but just at the ecm

so would I be right Into assumIng u wasn’t there when the mechanic worked on ur rangy

see the injectors don’t need coding

noid test shows nothing , so alas will have to go backwards in testing to establish why , which alas I assume loom and ecu

just wished if I may so we can establish 100% of what’s been tested and what still needs to be tested plse

1) have all the fuses been checked inc the smaller fuse next to the mega fuse
2) injector loom been tested in its entirety from the injector end to the ecm connector plug

also when u test the loom / connectors have u wiggled the loom around whilst the multimeter is still connected ,

Have u tested both sides of the connector , to ensure the actual pins are sound Either side of a connector

apologises for all the questions just trying to think personally what I would do

the more knowledgeable gurus will be along to at least help a lot more than I can

will of course post if I find anything else out for u

sorry that not much help

Also sounds daft

have u tested to ensure the earths are ok

Including using a jump lead to go from the earth battery post to the different points on the engine , to which can be established using a multimeter

just a thought

Also can u do me a favour please , know it’s sounds daft, just wondering about something I had on my TDV6

disconnect the battery , set ur multimeter onto ohms and test between the following pins please and see what readings u get ,

many thks

between the PIN 3 and 11

Then between PIN 6 and PIN 14

gstuart said:

Also sounds daft

have u tested to ensure the earths are ok

Including using a jump lead to go from the earth battery post to the different points on the engine , to which can be established using a multimeter

just a thought

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yea after an inlet manifold replacement RR is a non starter. Ran great even with the cracked inlet.

R not tested the loom, bit out my league as ive no multi meter.

I know theres no current to the injector connectors via the noid test kit.

wiring loom looks a bugger of a job

Thinking of changing the battery to see if that makes a difference.

Dont know wbere the fuse is, i had to replace the mega fuse which blew on trying to turn her over.
im getting nowhere with this.

GerRRSportV8 said:

yea after an inlet manifold replacement RR is a non starter. Ran great even with the cracked inlet.

R not tested the loom, bit out my league as ive no multi meter.

I know theres no current to the injector connectors via the noid test kit.

wiring loom looks a bugger of a job

Thinking of changing the battery to see if that makes a difference.

Dont know wbere the fuse is, i had to replace the mega fuse which blew on trying to turn her over.
im getting nowhere with this.

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ok, no worries , assumed u had been testing it, but no worries

so if I send a few links and u buy a multimeter are u ok to test things yourself if talked through it

I had just sorted out some wiring diagrams in series , will just post them here for now

gstuart said:

ok, no worries , assumed u had been testing it, but no worries

so if I send a few links and u buy a multimeter are u ok to test things yourself if talked through it

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Yea sure thing

GerRRSportV8 said:

Yea sure thing

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ok, how about something like this , picked that name as they have good feedback from many others and reasonably priced for what u wish to achieve

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT210E-Digital-Handheld-Clamp-Multimeter-Tester-DMM-Voltmeter-AC-DC-Meter/392118967556?hash=item5b4c1c9d04:g:WdgAAOSwH0Vb3leH&LH_BIN=1

as it has the following

Clamp facility , so handy if u wish to just test the readings of a single wire and not messing around with test leads
Dc in voltages and amps
Ohms , etc etc

Plse let me know what u think , thks

View attachment 207417[/QUOTE]
Wow @gstuart your hands are in great shape for a Landy owner! Do you moisturize?

Landy hands!
Saturday workshop for you!!

Update

After replacing my ECU with a cloned one, still no further forward.

Tested the electrics, found current and pulse at plugs etc, decided to go back to the source prior to the repair, removed the 4 injectors and sent them for testing.

Result ALL 4 FAILED ELECTRICAL TEST., from 24hours or runjing to non running with 4 failed injectors has knocked me sideways. for 4 to fail is catastrophic.

Ordered 4 new ones at £1k, update once they arrive.

Cheers

Gerry

That sound either very unlucky that they happened to fail at once or something else spiked and fried them.
i would be looking as to what would take them out.

brianp38dse said:

That sound either very unlucky that they happened to fail at once or something else spiked and fried them.
i would be looking as to what would take them out.

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+1 ^^^^^^ Why was the ECU changed? Could it be that the original ECU had a fault that burnt out the injectors?
It would be expensive to burn out another 4 injectors.

brianp38dse said:

That sound either very unlucky that they happened to fail at once or something else spiked and fried them.
i would be looking as to what would take them out.

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Would hazard a guess at cery unlucky, as 24hours prior to removal they were working perfectly. from them being removed and regitted they have failed.

Datatek said:

+1 ^^^^^^ Why was the ECU changed? Could it be that the original ECU had a fault that burnt out the injectors?
It would be expensive to burn out another 4 injectors.

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I thought maybe it had blown when mega fuse went, got it tested and it was fine.

Yes it is hurting to pay 1k for 4, but car needs to be running so i need to bite the bullet as they say.

GerRRSportV8 said:

I thought maybe it had blown when mega fuse went, got it tested and it was fine.

Yes it is hurting to pay 1k for 4, but car needs to be running so i need to bite the bullet as they say.

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Any chance you damaged them when removing/refitting?

Datatek said:

Any chance you damaged them when removing/refitting?

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Yea definately upon removal / refitting, fault lies with mechanic who replaced the manifold.

Not out of the woods yet, need to replace the 4 blown with new ones then see if it fires up.

GerRRSportV8 said:

Yea definately upon removal / refitting, fault lies with mechanic who replaced the manifold.

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Send him the bill

Datatek said:

Send him the bill

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if only, rather insert my size 10 up his anal hole