Fuel Filter replacement

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Davlyn

Davlyn

Active Member
Posts
243
Location
Bodmin, Cornwall
Could somebody give me a basic run down on the correct procedure for replacing the fuel filter on a P38 diesel (its a 2002 but I don't think that makes any difference)

thanks in advance,

Dave
 
just change filter ,remove assembly from bracket if easier ,you can fill new filter first but you dont have to ,once new fitted slacken diesel feed pipe banjo on injection pump and switch ignition on till air bled
 
It is really simple.

Put a container under the old filter (a cut off 1,5 L bottle will do), unscrew the old filter.

Put some diesel on the rubber gasket on the upper part of the new filter, screw it only hand tight.

Undo the bolt (either straight or banjo) where the pipe from the fuel filter connects to the fuel injection pump housing (it's a large, IIRC a 17mm bolt), but just so that the air can bleed from the system, not entirely. Now, the tricky part - have someone turn the ignition on for you so the air purges from the filter and pipes. Mine was bleeded on the second time i turned the ignition on. Be ready with the spanner on the bolt to tighten it, as it can lead to a pretty big puddle of diesel on the garage floor, especially if you do it alone.

Good luck with it,

chort
 
i'm no expert but it is easy - but i didn't do it properly make sure to fill the new filter with fuel before putting it back on - there's no priming pump on the filter housing ( most of the jap cars have a pump to prime system after a filter change , these expensive top of the range cars don't have one ) i found out the hard way today ran my battery flat had to get the jump leads to get the diesel through - just a point -hope that helps
 
softop2011 said:
i'm no expert but it is easy - but i didn't do it properly make sure to fill the new filter with fuel before putting it back on - there's no priming pump on the filter housing ( most of the jap cars have a pump to prime system after a filter change , these expensive top of the range cars don't have one ) i found out the hard way today ran my battery flat had to get the jump leads to get the diesel through - just a point -hope that helps
Click to expand...
thats because it doesnt need a crap priming pump like some have it has a electric pump in tank
 
softop2011 said:
i'm no expert but it is easy - but i didn't do it properly make sure to fill the new filter with fuel before putting it back on - there's no priming pump on the filter housing ( most of the jap cars have a pump to prime system after a filter change , these expensive top of the range cars don't have one ) i found out the hard way today ran my battery flat had to get the jump leads to get the diesel through - just a point -hope that helps
Click to expand...

No need to flatten battery turning engine over. Just crack banjo on pump and turn ignition on, pump will run as long as glow lamp is on. Get someone to keep turning ignition on and off until air has gone then nip banjo up.
 
Whoops :eek: - only trying to help - 5 mins to change the filter one hour to start the car one flat battery trying to get the fuel through . one jump lead assist from my old pajero . if i had a primer would have been away.


Imagine the scene - range rover runs out of fuel - wife’s driving it - kids took it out last night didn’t put fuel in - too far from garage etc whatever - engine stops so she’s thinking what’s up and turns it over and over and over but it won’t go no fuel. Now she has no battery , its run flat trying to turn the humungous lump over - she gets a gallon and sticks it in the tank and tries again - no battery - i know well give it a push . But no battery means no pump which means no fuel will get through to get the engine going -push as much as they like no point ... but the addition of a primer would make that situation a little easier . a lift pump and a primer won’t kill the battery .. wouldn't need spanners --who cares I'm in a range rover i can call the rac...
 
softop2011 said:
Whoops :eek: - only trying to help - 5 mins to change the filter one hour to start the car one flat battery trying to get the fuel through . one jump lead assist from my old pajero . if i had a primer would have been away.


Imagine the scene - range rover runs out of fuel - wife’s driving it - kids took it out last night didn’t put fuel in - too far from garage etc whatever - engine stops so she’s thinking what’s up and turns it over and over and over but it won’t go no fuel. Now she has no battery , its run flat trying to turn the humungous lump over - she gets a gallon and sticks it in the tank and tries again - no battery - i know well give it a push . But no battery means no pump which means no fuel will get through to get the engine going -push as much as they like no point ... but the addition of a primer would make that situation a little easier . a lift pump and a primer won’t kill the battery .. wouldn't need spanners --who cares I'm in a range rover i can call the rac...
Click to expand...

Or the AA.:D:D
 
primer wouldnt help, in tank pump is better ,primer pumps are a big cause of air intake ,if your batteries so flat it wont work tank pump it isnt going to turn engine over
 
not the argument - if it had a primer i wouldnt have flattened the battery trying to get the stupid in tank pump to push the fuel through - took so long to fill the filter that the battery gave up - lets have a primer - then the fuels there before we spend any battery life ... no brainer :amen:
 
softop2011 said:
not the argument - if it had a primer i wouldnt have flattened the battery trying to get the stupid in tank pump to push the fuel through - took so long to fill the filter that the battery gave up - lets have a primer - then the fuels there before we spend any battery life ... no brainer :amen:
Click to expand...


If you knew how to bleed the system or could be bothered to find out, you would not have flattened the battery. No brainer.
 
Softop, you could have a worn out in-tank pump. Mine primed the system in well under a mintute with an empty fuel filter. You just need to undo the banjo on the FIP a bit until it primes..
 
The intank pump should throw out a minimum of 180ml in ten seconds. Any less than that it's knackered. The in tank pump only runs. 1. When glowlamp is lit. 2. When engine is cranked. 3. When engine is running.
 
Last edited:
why can't all jobs be that easy. I think it took me less than 5 minutes. Filled the new filter to the brim, by the time I explained to my old man about the glow plug light going out it was done. Tightened the nut thingy up and away we went.
Brilliant, thanks for all your help guys,
Now I just need to sit back and wait to see the out come of Softop2011 sluggish no power thread. If replacing the MAF works then I'm off to buy one.

thanks again,

Dave
 
glad the filter change went ok - i now bow out on the pump / primer thing sorry for bringing it up - at least i will be able to change the filter without moaning next time -thanks for that ...one for wammer seen a maf on flea bay same reference as mine £58 probably try it - its new but i don't know if its genuine its listed for bmw - contacted the seller with a pic of mine and the numbers he says yes its the one .. so we'll see.
BMW E34 E36 E38 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR METER 13622246084 - 12mnth Guarantee | eBay
 
softop2011 said:
glad the filter change went ok - i now bow out on the pump / primer thing sorry for bringing it up - at least i will be able to change the filter without moaning next time -thanks for that ...one for wammer seen a maf on flea bay same reference as mine £58 probably try it - its new but i don't know if its genuine its listed for bmw - contacted the seller with a pic of mine and the numbers he says yes its the one .. so we'll see.
BMW E34 E36 E38 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR METER 13622246084 - 12mnth Guarantee | eBay
Click to expand...


Ok but be aware that a duff EGR modulator will give you same symptoms.
 
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