Front wheel bearings 1993/94 Disco

Morning,

Got a wheel bearing gone on my disco - it sounds crunchy and rattly and there's a lot of play on the CV joint end and the hub.
Got a couple questions, firstly, can I change it myself, or will I need a press, etc, to put the new bearing in? Or can I remove the caliper then the whole hub and disk in once piece to take to a garage.
Secondly, what part(s) do I actually need to buy? I noticed there is a taper roller bearing and wheel bearing on paddock - not sure what items I'll need to purchase and whether I need to replace or renew anything else while I'm in there.

Any help would be appreciated,

Cheers.

Did both mine myself in the front room on a sheet of ply! At the time it was snowing outside and extremely cold, so the shed just wasn't an option .. as well as it being too full to do anything in anyway! At the same time I also replaced the front discs as they were close to needing it anyway and I didn't want to have t do it again in a few months.

In my case I bought two full sets of wheel bearings from local (RCV) independant supplier, same price as the ebay ones. Don't forget you need two bearings for each wheel, so four altogether. I'd also recommend re-newing the large locking washer, I found the new ones didn't fit and needed filing down on the flat, but not a big issue really.

I got the old bearing out by simply tapping one side through with a small cold chisel, then doing the same the other side of the hub. reverse procedure for replacing the race, tap gently with a wider, blunt, chisel until the 'tap' changes to a 'thud' so you know it's seated. Don't try to tap it too hard, they can jam, just small taps at opposite points going round a few degrees each time so it goes in as squarely as you can keep it. Some people use a drift od the right size, or a large socket and press them in with a vice. When the tap changes note, make sure it's the same all round, otherwise it's at an angle and you'll be forever getting either broken balls or loose bearings!

I'd suggest you buy a hub spanner, can't remember the correct size. I'd also suggest replacing the hub oil seals at the same time .. for a few quid it's a job worth doing while you're at it, plus it's a right git to get them out without distorting them and rendering them useless anyway ..

Might as well give it a go then! cheers for that.

Drive flange gasket (hub gasket) 571752 £0.12 £0.12
Hub bearing STC4382R £4.75 x 2 £9.50
Hub bearing lock washer - front axle non ABS FRC8002 £0.21 £0.21
Hub Nut Spanner - for use with bar 606435 £3.98 £3.98
Wheel bearing lock nut FRC8700 £0.55 £0.55

They sound like the right parts?

Yup the parts sound right, but I dunno about the actual part No's .. make sure you give your reg or vin number to wherever you're getting them from so they can check for your model.

They look right on the pics too - it was only the bearing I wasn't sure about really but the same bearing covers about 10 other LR part numbers I believe. It'll be unlucky if I get the wrong one!

rojbarker said:

Might as well give it a go then! cheers for that.

Drive flange gasket (hub gasket) 571752 £0.12 £0.12
Hub bearing STC4382R £4.75 x 2 £9.50
Hub bearing lock washer - front axle non ABS FRC8002 £0.21 £0.21
Hub Nut Spanner - for use with bar 606435 £3.98 £3.98
Wheel bearing lock nut FRC8700 £0.55 £0.55

They sound like the right parts?

Click to expand...

depends where you get it from

You can get a bearing set from MM 4x4 or surprisingly cheap from Rimmer Bros.

One thing you might want to do is when you have removed theold bearings, if they are not going to be kept as emergency spares is lightly grind the outside of the bearing shells, that way they should fit easily into the hub and fall out again so you can use them as a drift for tapping in the new ones.

Definately get new hub seals.

Make sure you use plenty of grease with the new bearings and remember to pack the centre of the hub with grease as well.

On the basis you won't have a socket big enough to torque the bearings in, using hub nut spanner - you will need to do up the first nut as tight as possible then rotate the wheel in both directions a couple of times to get the bearings seated, then back off the nut and then do it up firmly but not FT. Rotate wheel again, fit lock tab washer then fit outer lock nut. bend lock tab washer and hopefully job done. Rotate wheel again make sure it is free and smooth and no discernible play.

Hope that makes some sort of sense.

i keep an old bearing shell and a couple of sets of bearings in the back of the motor all the time. Get an old bearing shell and use a grinder to put a slit in it, use that as the drift to get your new one in.

Great, that sounds like some good tips there! Thanks for your help, I'll have a pop at it when my bits arrive.
Are they a common failure point? Never occured to me that I might need spares of them in my tookit!

Be careful of packing the centre of the hub with grease, it will expand and will force itself past the seals, just make sure there is a space for expansion.

regards

Dave

I've done it - wasn't too bad. Got the outer bearing and race out no problem but the inner race was a right nightmare to get out. Managed to knock it out about 6mm but it wouldn't budge after that. Ended up taking to a mate's garage who knocked it out and set the new ones in for a tenner. It's all back on the road - seems happy for now but time will tell if I did it right or not! Cheers for your help guys!

Nice one!

I got rather confused by those bolts on the back of the caliper - they fit a 14mm socket but not a 14mm ring spanner - they fit a 13mm ring spanner but not a 13mm socket!

LOL ... 'Tolerances' ...

Haha yeah, it must be a Landy feature!