Front Transfer box out put bearing

Hi iv had the flange of to change the prop bolts and be for there was no play in it and wasnt after but a week later iv now got play in it, dose any one know what the torque setting is for it, i couldnt find it in the haynes manual or on auto data so i just air gunned it back up, could i of not tightend it up enough or to much or could it be because iv disterbed it and its not been right since. thanks

146-179 Nm or 108-132 lbf ft.

Never use an air gun!!

Just a quick Q - coz I am changing said bearing at the mo......
It is advised to pack the bearing with bearing grease, but as it is lubricated with the T-box oil, is this a good idea? I can see the grease being washed out and clogging the filters......
Any one got any reasons why or not?

so i would of over tightend it then, where can you get the new bearings from do paddocks sell them and are they a bastard to get out thanks.

try pm'ing iannotts.

not with the correct tool . yu will need a new felt washer, oil seal and a new nylock nut as well.

A bit more info for you, or anyone else doing this job

you will need the following

Tools
9/16AF OE (Open ended) Spanner
9/16AF Ring Spanner
9/16AF 3/8" drive socket, small extension bar and Ratchet driver **
30mm 1/2" drive Socket and ratchet drive
1/2" drive 18/24" breaker bar
Slide Hammer
Slide Hammer Adaptor ***
Long "chunky" Screwdriver (for prising out oil seal)
Locking bar ****

** I find I can get the prop nuts/bolts out with this, but you might want the special tool
from numerous suppliers/ebay
Or you could make one yourself by using a 1/4" or 3/8" drive 9/16" socket and extension bar. Cut the socket down so it's only as deep as the head of the prop nut/bolt. You may want to grind a bit off the back of the socket too if it's a fat one or your prop angles are tight.
Or if really flush, get the snap-on tool

*** Slide hammer adaptor to fit your slide hammer with an M20 nut to attach to the T-Box output shaft.

**** Locking bar - <>500mm length of bar with a 3/8" or 10mm clearance hole close to one end.

Parts required.

35x72x17mm Bearing - pn STC1130 (FAG6207.C3) (SKF6207 open race)
45x72x10mm Oil Seal - pn FTC4939
Felt Washer - pn FRC2464
M20 Nyloc Nut (To be torqued to 146-179Nm or 108-132 lbf ft)
Bearing Grease
EP80W90 Oil (if necessary - I found by putting the front of the car on axle stands [my drive], the front was raised sufficiently that no oil leaked from the front)
You may also want to replace the 3/8UNFx1" propshaft bolts and nyloc nuts. You should replace the nuts as a minimum.

This is, of course, to be used in conjunction with Busters excellent write up . He might even add this to it .

im missing a slide hammer, i broght one of them propnut sockets well worth its money,

nah - a modified 3/8" drive socket is much cheapa .

slide hammer