Classic Front propshaft - removal issues - LT95 manual gearbox on a 3.5 V8 Carb

So, I slowly start to get frustrated... There was clearly some delay in working on RollRoyce, but I thought I'll finally get to replace the front propshaft today. Had it soaked for three days, daily soaking included, with rust remover. Damn thing still wont get out. All I managed was to remove two bolt at the diff end.

Any ideas? My last resort would be to use an angle grinder to cut the old bolts of, but then will still be the exhaust in the way. Don't really want to ask the local stealership to replace it with an aftermarket one I have in the trunk. And besides the stealership no one will touch an old British lady over hear...

Heat... blow torch

Good idea, that! Have to give it a try!

Some ppl put red locktight on the bolts

Might well be that, who ever worked on it before also tightened the filler and drain plugs of the gearbox and engine so much that it is almost impossible to remove them. Stealership will have some fun with that tomorrow!

So, I'll order some new propshaft bolts right away and give it another shot with the blow torch once they arrived.

Thanks for the tips!

They have vibrating air tools, its easy for them

Propshaft bolts should not be that tight. Be sure to use the correct socket on them 9/16"AF. They are not metric. New bolts and nyloc nuts (3/8" UNF) tightened to correct torque (48 Nm or 35 Lb ft) need no thread lock applied to them.

Ah, the joys of a *real* workshop! Lucky us that these cars have enough ground clearance to easily work underneath them in a driveway, right?

hef19898 said:

Ah, the joys of a *real* workshop! Lucky us that these cars have enough ground clearance to easily work underneath them in a driveway, right?

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Drive on ramps help.

hef19898 said:

Ah, the joys of a *real* workshop! Lucky us that these cars have enough ground clearance to easily work underneath them in a driveway, right?

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If you are relying on the air to keep it up dont, put something under the car, and have one of the doors or the boot open all the time, 2 ton crushing you is no joke

Ah, mine has on tires 22cm under the diffs, so more than enough to crouch under it as it is. Not really comfortable, sure, but feasible! Doesn't help if you have to apply force so...

wammers said:

Be sure to use the correct socket on them 3/8" AF

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Not 9/16" then?

Cheers

neilly said:

Not 9/16" then?

Cheers

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Bollocks yes 9/16" Have changed it thanks.

wammers said:

Propshaft bolts should not be that tight. Be sure to use the correct socket on them 3/8" AF. They are not metric. New bolts and nyloc nuts (3/8" UNF) tightened to correct torque (48 Nm or 35 Lb ft) need no thread lock applied to them.

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Think you will find they are 9/16 AF or 14 mm if they ave been replaced before ( 3/8 AF is only the equivalent of 10mm )

ovalandrover said:

Think you will find they are 9/16 AF or 14 mm if they ave been replaced before ( 3/8 AF is only the equivalent of 10mm )

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Yep i dropped a bollock. Put bolt diameter instead of nut size. Metric bolts should not be used in this fitment. Prop bolts are a shear fitment not a tension fitment.

Also there is special socket for them
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9-16-Lan...d417068:g:V14AAOSwIBxc47tY&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw

14mm wrench and the proshaft removal tool worked perfectly so far. Just ordered some non-metric wrenches and nuts just to be sure... Once everything is completely round it is too late, isn't it?

hef19898 said:

14mm wrench and the proshaft removal tool worked perfectly so far. Just ordered some non-metric wrenches and nuts just to be sure... Once everything is completely round it is too late, isn't it?

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If you have any decent quality 12 point hammer sockets you could try knocking one over the duff nuts.

Let's keep fingers crossed it doesn't come to that!

hef19898 said:

Good idea, that! Have to give it a try!

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Newspaper under the drivers seat will leave no forensic evidence.