front propping

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everreadyeddy

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45
ive got k reg defender 90, recently tried fitting new univerasal joints to my prop shaft but ended up cracking the bracket on the end of the prop due to eccesive force. i tried as reccomended to use a vice but the joints wouldnt go in, so i returned them to the shop where brought and said that i must have the wrong ones. he assured me they were correct and i should try again. i did this but used a 10 tonne jack which has now ended up in me cracking my prop end!!! has any one had similar probs??? do the u joints usually give this much trouble to fit or do they usually pop staright in???

failing all this will a disco prop fit me defender??? they seem to be cheaper??? thanks
 
They do require a bit of force, but not that much.
The different part numbers of UJ are all the same cup diameter, just different widths across the yoke.
My K reg defender was fitted with the earlier type of Prop (as fitted to early 90's) for some reason, so I ended up with UJ's that were too narrow across the yoke. However they still fitted OK - they were just loose.

I bought a new complete prop for mine, then realised that I needed a wide-yoke jobby because my 90 is lifted. That prop was only on for 2 weeks, so if you want to make me an offer for it, PM me.
 
mines lifted too mate, i think im gonna go for the same exra wide jobby, how much did u pay for urs??? just out of curiosity??
 
Early and late propshafts can be interchangeable, so you might have been sold the "right" uj for your vehicle, but your vehicle may have the "wrong" propshaft. Such swapping of parts is not unusual on Land Rovers, and can lead to no end of problems.
Changing direction, are all the needles in the end cap in place, if one of thoe has slipped (very easy to do) and is lying across the base on the end cap, you will never get the UJ to fit!
 
With the yolks all nice and clean, the first cup should press in about halfway with just hand pressure, and not that much more to get to the circlip position.

The opposite end will be a lot harder because you're squeezing excess grease out. Too much grease and I suppose you might end up with a problem
 
With the yolks all nice and clean, the first cup should press in about halfway with just hand pressure, and not that much more to get to the circlip position.

The opposite end will be a lot harder because you're squeezing excess grease out. Too much grease and I suppose you might end up with a problem
Shouldn't be any problem with excess grease if ye leave the grease nipple off durin' fitting. Also once the first side is in the other shouldn't be that much different;)

see....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/uj-renewal-59812.html
 
Why did you only use it for 2 weeks Trewey?
I was trying to eliminate an annoying vibration. I had problems getting the correct UJs for my original prop, so I bought a new "standard" prop. That's what was on for only 2 weeks, because it didn't cure the vibration problem. I'm now running the wide-yoke jobby.
 
Shouldn't be any problem with excess grease if ye leave the grease nipple off durin' fitting. Also once the first side is in the other shouldn't be that much different;)

The ones I fitted didn't have a nipple on the spider, so grease was a bit of a 'how much?'.

What I meant was; you can press the first cup in easily, then in goes the spider. The second cup will be harder to press in - if you don't have the luxury of a removable grease nipple.

Since grease is more or less a fluid, and fluids are incompressible (by definition) then as you apply pressure to the second cup, the only possible way for the cup to move into the yoke is by blowing grease through the two cup seals. Which will be hard work. I "tapped" mine in. At first they wouldn't move, but , after a few minutes, they were as smooth as a smooth thing.
 
thanks for all your help guys, think im gonna be bidding on the wider toke job on ebay. mines totalled now with the crack scenario. thanks for all your help again. speak to you all next time summat else breaks!!! haha
 
I was trying to eliminate an annoying vibration. I had problems getting the correct UJs for my original prop, so I bought a new "standard" prop. That's what was on for only 2 weeks, because it didn't cure the vibration problem. I'm now running the wide-yoke jobby.
Hi Trewey, did the wide yoke prop cure your vibration? Did you go the full monty - caster corrected radius arms as well?
 
Hi Trewey, did the wide yoke prop cure your vibration? Did you go the full monty - caster corrected radius arms as well?

Nope, I'm still tryin to find the source of the vibration - it's ****in me right off! It's even there if I run without a front prop at all.

Yes I did fit castor corrected radius arms.
 
Mine only started after I fitted 2" lift, complete front axle has been changed (due to another problem) caster corrected radius arms fitted, have borrowed a wide yoke prop - still vibrating, looking to borrow a double cardon prop to see if that cures the problem. I'm actually begining to think the problem is from the rear end and not the front
 
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