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Anyone done a write-up for a Disco/defender front diff replacement? I have :search:ed but cant find out.
front diff replacement
- Thread starter The Mad Hat Man
- Start date
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hughesy
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Tain't rocket science is it? Hubs off, stub axles off, pull the 1/2 shafts out, unbolt propshaft from diff, unbolt diff and remove. To reassemble repeat in reverse order. Simples.
Dent
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I just undo the the swivel ball bolts and pull the lot out , about 6in or so, no need to take the wheels off even .
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unfortunately a four inch lift complicates things somewhat 
Dent
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unfortunately a four inch lift complicates things somewhat
How come ?
hughesy
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Go on then, enlighten us. How does that make any difference to removing a diff?unfortunately a four inch lift complicates things somewhat
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no idea - i was told that the brake lines wont allow sufficient movement - but then, maybe I am was told incorrectly?
hughesy
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What kind of movement? The thing'll have to be on axle stands so it'll be just like it was sat on it's wheels. Gettin a diff out's a piece of **** just watch you don't drop it on yer fingers they're ****in heavy.
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tiz a front diff - i done rears - as yu say easy, but heavy. I was told front diffs need the swivels pulled apart to pull out the half shafts???
jai_landrover
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Just take the axle ends off. Really you should extract the whole assy and replace the axle end gaskets properly that means undoing the brake hoses and rebleading. I have in the past done it by just extracting the axle ends enough to clear the diff but you will need to tie up and hold the axle ends so:
a they do not rotate (and rip off the brake lines)
b they do not fall anywhere (and rip off the brake lines)
c if you have any internal seals they do not take the weight of the axle end (bloody heavy) and get damaged.
Also I used gaskets and RTV silicone sealant but I had to cut the gasket to get around the half shaft. Or just use RTV silicone sealant. Depends how anal you are and how quick you need the job. I did it on a comp motor that needed to be running ASAP to get back out on the course. Hence the rush but even to this day its been ok and not leaking. Just be anal with the cleaning of mating surfaces and you will be ok.
B3aker
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Just need to take wheel off, drive flange, caliper, Hub, and Stub axle, and pull the half shaft out a bit on both sides, bit like if you were to do a CV Joint renewal to that point.
Jai makes it sound so much simpler!
Jai makes it sound so much simpler!
jai_landrover
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If the lift is still a concern, compress the springs with compressors and ratchet straps them and make them so there is no chance they can twang undone giving you some more brake pipe to play with. But make sure there is no chance they come undone otherwise you will be requiring new brake lines and possibly paint work.
B3aker
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This may be of some help. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/how-replace-diff-input-bearing-64301.html
hughesy
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Can't see how the brake pipes are a factor in this. The calipers can be un bolted and just tied up out of the way. No need to disturb the buggers otherwise. As someone said earlier it's just the same as replacing a cv joint except once the cv joint and halfshaft are out you can remove the diff from the axle. It's just nut and bolts nothing taxing about it.
jai_landrover
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Drain Diff,
Undo Track rod both ends,
Undo Front steering rod at ball joint end that comes from the drop arm,
Undo Diff banjo bolts,
Do what you have to do with the brake lines (unless you intend to extract the whole axle end assys)
Undo the axle ends 6x or 7x Bi Hex 14mm or 9/16 depending on year,
Extract both ends enough to clear diff about 5 or 6 inches (or completly)
Take out diff,
Replace diff and gasket,
Reassemble with silicone and or gaskets torque up to required settings re attach track rod and steering rod. double check test drive.
What have you done to your diff? The last one I did the pinion gear snapped off and fell inside jamming it up blocking his road stalled the engine in Low 1st had to remove the drive members before we could move it back on his driveway.
Undo Track rod both ends,
Undo Front steering rod at ball joint end that comes from the drop arm,
Undo Diff banjo bolts,
Do what you have to do with the brake lines (unless you intend to extract the whole axle end assys)
Undo the axle ends 6x or 7x Bi Hex 14mm or 9/16 depending on year,
Extract both ends enough to clear diff about 5 or 6 inches (or completly)
Take out diff,
Replace diff and gasket,
Reassemble with silicone and or gaskets torque up to required settings re attach track rod and steering rod. double check test drive.
What have you done to your diff? The last one I did the pinion gear snapped off and fell inside jamming it up blocking his road stalled the engine in Low 1st had to remove the drive members before we could move it back on his driveway.
jai_landrover
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Ok As hugsey said you can unbolt the caliper but the bracket for the brake pipes is attached to the top of the axle end assy so unless you unbolt that also you will gain bugger all.
jai_landrover
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2 ways either strip the axle end leaving it in place and taking out the shaft x2 or undo both assys complete and pull them apart. I Personally wouldn't strip it unless its due a clean up or for maintainance. If you have broken a diff it may be worth (I would) remove both axle ends completly (and that means brake lines aswell). Clean the axle casing internally to make sure no bits of metal are going to cause issues with the new diff.
When I blew apart a salisbury shaft there was so much crap in there that so called "mechanics" told me to just drain the oil and replace the shaft and flush with clean oil. I'm glad I didn't because the pinion bearing is fed oil via the crown wheel throwing the oil in above the pinion bearing and lubricating it. Lots of metal fragments had accumulated in there that have nowhere to go but into the pinion bearing and I removed the diff and used a strong magnet to remove all the fragmants. Had I not done this I could have been looking at the least a new input bearing or possibly a new diff/crownwheel and pinion.
When I blew apart a salisbury shaft there was so much crap in there that so called "mechanics" told me to just drain the oil and replace the shaft and flush with clean oil. I'm glad I didn't because the pinion bearing is fed oil via the crown wheel throwing the oil in above the pinion bearing and lubricating it. Lots of metal fragments had accumulated in there that have nowhere to go but into the pinion bearing and I removed the diff and used a strong magnet to remove all the fragmants. Had I not done this I could have been looking at the least a new input bearing or possibly a new diff/crownwheel and pinion.
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