Freelander work lights

Iwan2468 · Jan 29, 2017

Everning,
Have been looking at putting some rear work lights on my freelander for a while now but having searched forums and pictures online, couldn't find any that mounted nicely to leave in as an everyday mounting.

Thought I would share with people what I've done and keep updating as it goes

Firstly - Freelander TD4 5dr 54plate, couple of small things done so far but hoping to do a lot more in the next few months.
Bits you need

2 - Got a set of lights of eBay, small but bright didn't see the postage until to late but only took a week to come - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282037697855

3 - got a set of mending brackets from screwfix 76x16 comes as a pack of 10 for £1.59

4 - Got 10mts of red 17.5amp wiring, 5mts of black, inline fuse and connectors

5 - wanted to make it all look right so went to the scrap yard and got a proper switch and connector from another car as all of mine are full all ready

Fitting it

1 - I first ran a wire from the battery around the back of the ECU and behind the firewall and all the way to by the master cylinder where I then passed it through a rubber grommet which comes out by the accelerator, this then went to the switch by the drivers knee (will add photos later)

2 - fitted one light to the rear, remove the long trim that goes down the side of the tailgate window and the trim across the top, mine just pulled off but will need some butile tape to stay back permantly

I then tried to remove the outer screws on the metal bracket across the top (if in my case they just spin you will need to remove the inside of the boot trim and gain access from under the head lining with a very long pair of long nosesed pliers

with the screw out I then drilled the holes in the bracket wider to make them fit and also shorted the bolt that is in the bottom of the light.

Next was to put the bracket on I put it on with the plastic washer against the body of the car and re attached everything and put back all of the trim, this is as far as I made it in my lunch break so will keep you updated.

pardec · Jan 29, 2017

Nodge68 · Jan 30, 2017

Iwan2468 said:
Everning,
Have been looking at putting some rear work lights on my freelander for a while now but having searched forums and pictures online, couldn't find any that mounted nicely to leave in as an everyday mounting.

Thought I would share with people what I've done and keep updating as it goes

Firstly - Freelander TD4 5dr 54plate, couple of small things done so far but hoping to do a lot more in the next few months.
Bits you need

2 - Got a set of lights of eBay, small but bright didn't see the postage until to late but only took a week to come - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282037697855

3 - got a set of mending brackets from screwfix 76x16 comes as a pack of 10 for £1.59

4 - Got 10mts of red 17.5amp wiring, 5mts of black, inline fuse and connectors

5 - wanted to make it all look right so went to the scrap yard and got a proper switch and connector from another car as all of mine are full all ready

Fitting it

1 - I first ran a wire from the battery around the back of the ECU and behind the firewall and all the way to by the master cylinder where I then passed it through a rubber grommet which comes out by the accelerator, this then went to the switch by the drivers knee (will add photos later)

2 - fitted one light to the rear, remove the long trim that goes down the side of the tailgate window and the trim across the top, mine just pulled off but will need some butile tape to stay back permantly I then tried to remove the outer screws on the metal bracket across the top (if in my case they just spin you will need to remove the inside of the boot trim and gain access from under the head lining with a very long pair of long nosesed pliers

with the screw out I then drilled the holes in the bracket wider to make them fit and also shorted the bolt that is in the bottom of the light.

Next was to put the bracket on I put it on with the plastic washer against the body of the car and re attached everything and put back all of the trim, this is as far as I made it in my lunch break so will keep you updated.

I've been looking at those for the front for a bit of fill in light. They fit nicely on the back. There are several different versions with different LED emitters. But for the rear as a work light, ultimate light output isn't that important.

Iwan2468 · Mar 1, 2017

sorry for the long reply, i have finally got round to actually having one wired up and going but is currently wired to my reverse just so it works and think it is a bit bright for that so need to hurry up and finish all the wiring to the front, i will be taking a negative from the reverse light and putting the wiring through the lamp there too then into back and have put a positive the length of the car under all of the trims such as kick panels etc, just need to attach it all up and will be away!

Nodge68 · Mar 2, 2017

I bought a couple of those for myself recently. I pulled one apart to see what the quality was like.
They are actually pretty good internally. Much better than some of the longer cheap LED light bars. Mine claim 18 Watts. However they are running at a more modest 14.75 Watts. This isn't a bad thing as the emitters are being under driven for longer life, but light output is still reasonable .

Iwan2468 · Mar 2, 2017

It is pretty bright, don't need much more light out the back, have you considered putting a light bar on the front of yours? I'm trying to work out how to fit one thats semi permanent, thinking of two mounts to the roof rails then running the wiring down the ariel, then a connector just before the base, putting a small cut in the base then feeding the wire through then sealing up the base.

Nodge68 · Mar 3, 2017

Iwan2468 said:
It is pretty bright, don't need much more light out the back, have you considered putting a light bar on the front of yours? I'm trying to work out how to fit one thats semi permanent, thinking of two mounts to the roof rails then running the wiring down the ariel, then a connector just before the base, putting a small cut in the base then feeding the wire through then sealing up the base.

Here's my 20 Inch LED light bar in its proposed fitting position.

This is what the 18 Watt LED bar looks like inside.

They are well made and cheap to buy.

Iwan2468 · Mar 3, 2017

Like the look of that same colour as mine and same nudge bar (just yours has no monkey bites -longleat) how have you mounted that and does it not restrict to much air flow?

Iwan2468 · Mar 3, 2017

In reverse with the light on compared to normal reverse lights

Nodge68 · Mar 3, 2017

Iwan2468 said:
Like the look of that same colour as mine and same nudge bar (just yours has no monkey bites -longleat) how have you mounted that and does it not restrict to much air flow?

I've used a couple of C shaped brackets, screwed between the upper and lower bumper grille slot. The LED bar is mounted to the brackets.

It doesn't appear to affect air flow through the grille at all. The TD4 is a cool running engine to start with. So I've no concerns at all.
I've yet to wire my bar up as time has been short.

Iwan2468 · Mar 9, 2017

do like the look of it there as can then use it on the road which is a bonus, whats the light output like? does it get limited by the nudge bar?

Nodge68 · Mar 9, 2017

Iwan2468 said:
do like the look of it there as can then use it on the road which is a bonus, whats the light output like? does it get limited by the nudge bar?

The light output is dependent on the LEDs used in the bar and how hard they are being driven.
I've bought several light bars recently to find one that is as described.
I've stuck with 2 good bars. One on my 05 and one on the mother in law's 01 V6.
This is the light output of the least bright of the two bars I've used. It is fitted to the 01 V6.

I've yet to wire up the brighter bar fitted to my 05.
These bars are a bit pot luck as to what you get when buying on Ebay. The best budget bar I've found came from a supplier in Germany. It arrived in 3 days, is listed as being fitted with CREE XBD emitters, which it is (shown below right). These are brilliant white and brighter than the other good bar (left).
The bar on the left is however much brighter than other bars I've tried and was lighting the road in the image above. It is fitted with unidentified multi chip emitters.

One thing I have found with all these budget bars I've tested is they don't come close to there rated power. The two shown above are both rated at 126 Watts. However the actual power is 77 Watts in both bars. They are bright enough at this power level so should have a good life, due to the under driven emitters.

The type of emitters (chips) used makes the biggest difference to the actual light output of these bars.
Genuine CREE emitters (commonly CREE XBD) are the brightest of the budget bar emitters used.
Multi chip emitters are the next brightest used in the budget bars.
The dimmest of the emitters used are Epistar emitters. These are fine in a low output torch. But have no place in an LED light bar.

cshawps · Mar 10, 2017

I've done a similar thing with mine... got a pair of cheap 12w work lights wired them up on a relay with a 3 way switch so they come on auto with reverse and manually when needed

Iwan2468 · May 17, 2017

Still haven't got round to wiring it up properly just annoying everyone every time i go into reverse as it comes on and blinds people but hay ho, I've just ordered a 42" light bar for the roof has anyone on here fitted one to the roof? how did you mount it and were did you run wires, I'm not sure i want to drill through the roof incase i sell it. Im thinking of having a weekend of wiring everything up and trying to clean it up abit as been using it to commute 130 miles a day with maxxis on so cost me a small fortune this past two weeks and my head is sore!

Nodge68 · May 17, 2017

The easiest way to mount a light bar into the roof, would be a crossbar mounted on the roof rails. Wiring could be tucked under the door rubbers for a removable solution.
I have a 20" Cree LED bar mounted into the grill space on my SE.

It makes plenty of light, but there are many on sale that aren't what they promise to be.

I would like to fit a safari rack. When I do, I'll mount a longer Cree LED bar on it.

Iwan2468 · May 17, 2017

I've gone for a 42" curved 230watt bar and got all the wiring loom for it to try and minimise voltage drop etc, I'm thinking as it mounts at the end of the bar to try and make something which goes into the rails I've seen some online but don't know yet until it arrives

Nodge68 · May 17, 2017

Iwan2468 said:
I've gone for a 42" curved 230watt bar and got all the wiring loom for it to try and minimise voltage drop etc, I'm thinking as it mounts at the end of the bar to try and make something which goes into the rails I've seen some online but don't know yet until it arrives

Make sure you are able to return it, if it doesn't meet your expectations, as many don't. I bought and returned 5 LED bars, before I found one that was as described. Many claim to have Cree emmiters, most don't. The Wattage claims are laughable too. Most rate Wattage by multiplying each emmiters maximum power, by the number of emmiters fitted. However on all the bars I've tested, the emmiters are under driven by 30% to 50%. This reduces the wattage by the same amount.
So take any Lumen claims with a pinch of salt.

My Cree bar has Cree XB-D emmiters fitted. These are rated at 3 Watts and produce 271 Lumens at a drive current of 1000mA. However the LED driver in my Cree only drives the emmiters at 650mA. This lower drive current means lower luminous flux, of around 200 Lumens per emmiter.

So my bar could theoretically make 271Lm X 42 emmiters giving 11382 lumens.
In reality is 200Lm X 42 giving closer to 8400 Lumens.

So you need to research and return, if you want to avoid being disappointed.

Voltage drop isn't much of an issue with LED bars. As long as the cables can supply the current being consumed, that's good enough. Having over sized cables won't make them brighter. The LED drivers are oscillating boost converters, designed run from around 9V to about 30V. The lower the voltage, the more current they consume.

This is a typical driver with Cree XB-D emmiters fitted. These mudules are rated at 18 Watts, but run at ~14.3 Watts in the real world.

My 126 Watt rated LED bar actually consumes ~76 Watts. This works out as 6.3 Amps at 12 Volts and under 6 Amps with the engine running.

A budget Chinese 240 Watt bar will consume well under 15 Amps. 12 Amps would be nearer the actual consumption figure.

Iwan2468 · Jul 8, 2017

Sorry for the delay, other things have been taking over, I have fitted the lightbar to the roof now, ended up with the full loom and relays Etc got a spare switch from a scrap yard so it is located next to my knee in the little panel, have run the loom under the headlining and through the roof it's self, then under the cover for the roof rail so can be hidden away and onto a roof bar so can all be removed easily, it's just about bright enough!

Nodge68 · Jul 9, 2017

What make light bar is that. It doesn't look like it's using Cree emmiters to me. But it should be pretty bright, simply because of the number of emmiters in there.

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