Freelander Tow Bar Electrics

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:eek::eek::eek::eek::behindsofa:

Well said Ming !!:praise:.....Do people no longer have any confidence in having a go off their own initiative without resorting to the hype and bull**** put forward by the manufacturers which basically say that if you don't buy our genuine kit at genuinely inflated prices, your pride and joy will burst into flames and disintegrate.
Forget the Scotchlocks...they are absolute crap. Soldered and shrink wrap joints are best, followed by crimp connectors and screw type "Chocolate block" type which if good for 400V joints are sure to work with a measly 12V provided that the correct amperage type is used.
You do not need to cut off the socket to make the connections if you wish, all you need to do is solder splice into the individual wires downstream of the pick up socket.

Hmm.......using heat shrink tubing whilst splicing into an unbroken wire would be a bloody miracle :D
 
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:eek::eek::eek::eek::behindsofa:

Well said Ming !!:praise:.....Do people no longer have any confidence in having a go off their own initiative without resorting to the hype and bull**** put forward by the manufacturers which basically say that if you don't buy our genuine kit at genuinely inflated prices, your pride and joy will burst into flames and disintegrate.
Forget the Scotchlocks...they are absolute crap. Soldered and shrink wrap joints are best, followed by crimp connectors and screw type "Chocolate block" type which if good for 400V joints are sure to work with a measly 12V provided that the correct amperage type is used.
You do not need to cut off the socket to make the connections if you wish, all you need to do is solder splice into the individual wires downstream of the pick up socket.

Erm....did you notice Ming's post date? :doh: It was me you had to reply to!! hahaha
 
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