Freelander Tow Bar Electrics

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Jamie2126

New Member
Posts
13
Hi all,

Can somebody advise on a little problem I have.

I have just fitted a tow bar to my Freelander. I have located the plug point behind the O/S/R panel pic #1.

On inspection of the plug, they is a blank connector on the side of the block - see attached picture.

Is it possible to buy the spade connectors that will fit inside this blank connector as the ones I've seen at the auto factors are a little to big to fit. pic#2.

Or is it worth just to use spade connectors instead ?

Also, does any body have the colour code info to allow me to connect to the block ?

Any feedback is appriciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jamie
 
oppps, pics too big .
 

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lr do the connector kit, un i dunt know todays prices but were bout 12 pounds last time i enquired, i thought that twas reasonable,on my motor i fitted crimps bullet push in type so i could dissconect easy, but it twas after i done the job i found out about the lr connectors. . .if you still want cable code , let me know un i will try un find it fer ya. . . .:)
 
Colour code fer trailer lectrics is
Yellow - Left flasher
Blue - Fog lamp
White - Earth
Green - Right flasher
Brown - Right tail light
Red - Brake lights
Black - Left tail light
 
dont forget to fit new towing flasher relay to activate trailer warning light,better than a sodding annoying buzzer.
 
owwwccchhhh !! just called LR and they quoted £77 + VAT!!

Anybody recommend an aftermarket retailer who sells these ?
 
maplin and CPC ( Google it part of the farnell group ) sell the molex plugs and pins will take a while to search.

but heres the colours for the tow electrics
on your freelander
( Double check first )

black ground
left green/redstripe
right green/whitestripe
live brown
12+ white

(red to red green to green blue to bits!!! )

please check..... info given in good faith.

mick:)
 
Thread revival....I tried hitching the trailer lights to the hippo and surpisingly only the right side works, nothing on the left. no indicators, no light, nowt. is this a known fault?
 
pluckin ell ,thats gone up int price, use crimps or 10amp connectors. . .:eek:

:eek::eek::eek::eek::behindsofa:

Well said Ming !!:praise:.....Do people no longer have any confidence in having a go off their own initiative without resorting to the hype and bull**** put forward by the manufacturers which basically say that if you don't buy our genuine kit at genuinely inflated prices, your pride and joy will burst into flames and disintegrate.
Forget the Scotchlocks...they are absolute crap. Soldered and shrink wrap joints are best, followed by crimp connectors and screw type "Chocolate block" type which if good for 400V joints are sure to work with a measly 12V provided that the correct amperage type is used.
You do not need to cut off the socket to make the connections if you wish, all you need to do is solder splice into the individual wires downstream of the pick up socket.
 
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