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Freelander TD4 OEM+
- Thread starter Seoinage
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Rimini-Scott
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When you did the black and silver badges what ones did you use on the C pillars? I need to replace mine
Nodge68
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Winu
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true. Nothing makes me more smile than Freelander sleeper car... and those poor kids on Vauxhalls and BMWso...
Seoinage
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Agreed - If the crank is going to break, then it's going to break.
More likely to get clutch slip due to the increased torque etc.
I ran my Synergy at #3. Was great to drive, lots of go but also quite a bit of smoke...
So currently I'm running around at #2 until I have made intercooler and exhaust changes.
Once I can monitor the EGT I will be happy to tweak things accordingly.
The remap changed the driveability a lot, the Synergy made it even better
Rob
More likely to get clutch slip due to the increased torque etc.
I ran my Synergy at #3. Was great to drive, lots of go but also quite a bit of smoke...
So currently I'm running around at #2 until I have made intercooler and exhaust changes.
Once I can monitor the EGT I will be happy to tweak things accordingly.
The remap changed the driveability a lot, the Synergy made it even better
Rob
Seoinage
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I payed a hefty sum for a pair that were advertised as being for a Freelander 2. I'm sure the listing said "Supercharged" and "Rare" lol however I can't find the listing now...
Had to cut tabs off the back, but they fit perfectly
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Winu
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I Use mine on #7, and digibooster on low. Also there is a little smoke on hard acceleration, but only on first time, so i think that is a CAT/mufflers cleaning.
Need to see how it will work with new turbocharger and exhasut. My egt don't go over 350-400 deg @ 25-30 psi of boost
Seoinage
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Winu
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Exhaust will be 2-2,5" Stainless probably with throttle bypass after middle or tall muffler (not decide yet). With decat - or i place throttle bypass before CAT. Bypass is controlled by switch or boost controller.
Turbocharger got lighter billet compressor wheel, more accuracy balancing - so it should have less lag and more stable boost.
Turbocharger got lighter billet compressor wheel, more accuracy balancing - so it should have less lag and more stable boost.
Seoinage
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Similar to what I'm planning also
I don't like the look of the standard downpipe, looks like it doesn't flow very well, so am considering having one made up. Is this something you are also looking to do?
Where are you getting the turbo work done?
Rob
I don't like the look of the standard downpipe, looks like it doesn't flow very well, so am considering having one made up. Is this something you are also looking to do?
Where are you getting the turbo work done?
Rob
Nodge68
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Anybody though about swapping the crank for the steel version fitted to some of the later BMW M47 engines? Seems like a sensible move if lots of power is going to be made.
Seoinage
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Nodge - Do you have any information on the differences between the M47 engine variants?
I've tried to search this, however like a lot of information on the internet, I took what I found with a pinch of salt...
From what I found the "M47T" looked to be the motor they increased the stroke to give a larger capacity and obviously better power output.
This was what led me to wonder if I could use an M47T Short engine, with the Freelander Spec. "M47R" Cylinder Head, Turbo etc to build a hybrid motor with larger capacity and I'd imagine a stronger bottom end?
Or maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree...
Rob
Nodge68
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Nodge - Do you have any information on the differences between the M47 engine variants?
I've tried to search this, however like a lot of information on the internet, I took what I found with a pinch of salt...
From what I found the "M47T" looked to be the motor they increased the stroke to give a larger capacity and obviously better power output.
This was what led me to wonder if I could use an M47T Short engine, with the Freelander Spec. "M47R" Cylinder Head, Turbo etc to build a hybrid motor with larger capacity and I'd imagine a stronger bottom end?
Or maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree...
Rob
From memory @Diesel Do is thinking of doing the steel crank swap. I'm sure he'll have done his research thoroughly.
Hopefully hell see the tag and pop along.
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Skinny Mike
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Seoinage
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Cheers Mike!
Interesting read... I wonder what the "Higher temperatures and other problems" actually were specifically...
Rob
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Skinny Mike
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Copy and paste
From here:
http://www.bmwforums.info/bmw-tunin...formance-upgrades-4-cylinder-m4x-engines.html
Diesel M47 CRANKShaft Conversion:
I still haven't fully researched this part properly, however I learned upgrading to the M47/M47N diesel crank is another upgrade to these petrol m4x engines, as the crank has a longer stroke, therefore having a 2.1L 4-pot engine. So far, this is what is known:
- The M47 crank doesn't have the trigger wheel like the M44 crank.
- You will need to install the trigger sensor up front, using a M42 crank pulley.
- Depending on your flywheel, it "may" just bolt on directly or maybe it will require some modification (don't quote me on that since i need to research more)
- The front snout needs to be cut off and then it needs a new keyway installed for beginners.
- You need shorter rods or better pistons with the wrist pin located higher on the piston for a better rod angle on the crank.
- Long rods = good, short rods = bad due to side loading of the piston on the cylinder wall.
(Hence these rods will be aftermarker or Custom Job)
However, it's not an easy conversion as far as i'm aware! So research is the key to getting it right.
Have a read of the full thread, and cherry pick.
Mike
From here:
http://www.bmwforums.info/bmw-tunin...formance-upgrades-4-cylinder-m4x-engines.html
Diesel M47 CRANKShaft Conversion:
I still haven't fully researched this part properly, however I learned upgrading to the M47/M47N diesel crank is another upgrade to these petrol m4x engines, as the crank has a longer stroke, therefore having a 2.1L 4-pot engine. So far, this is what is known:
- The M47 crank doesn't have the trigger wheel like the M44 crank.
- You will need to install the trigger sensor up front, using a M42 crank pulley.
- Depending on your flywheel, it "may" just bolt on directly or maybe it will require some modification (don't quote me on that since i need to research more)
- The front snout needs to be cut off and then it needs a new keyway installed for beginners.
- You need shorter rods or better pistons with the wrist pin located higher on the piston for a better rod angle on the crank.
- Long rods = good, short rods = bad due to side loading of the piston on the cylinder wall.
(Hence these rods will be aftermarker or Custom Job)
However, it's not an easy conversion as far as i'm aware! So research is the key to getting it right.
Have a read of the full thread, and cherry pick.
Mike
Seoinage
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Hmm... I might be wrong, but reading the article I think they are referring to using the M47 crank in a different motor to achieve a longer stroke... not retrofitting a crank into the M47.
Looking at the first article you posted though it would seem the bore is the same in the M47R and M47T, just a longer stroke, so possibly different crank and rods to achieve an extra 50cc
Rob
Looking at the first article you posted though it would seem the bore is the same in the M47R and M47T, just a longer stroke, so possibly different crank and rods to achieve an extra 50cc
Rob
Skinny Mike
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My understanding is the block is the same in the T but has a longer stroke, therefore it should be possible?? To swap.
Well beyond my capabilities though.
But you then open a can of worms with the ECU and turbo control.
Mike
Well beyond my capabilities though.
But you then open a can of worms with the ECU and turbo control.
Mike
Winu
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A little bit pointless. Going higher than 160-170 hp in a FL will cause other elements to failure (clutch, IRD, gearbox)
Nodge68
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It's even more pointless with the auto transmission FL1 as the box is only designed to take 300Nm or 222 FtLb of torque. This could probably be increased to 250 FtLb with regular fluid changes and an extra box cooler.
