Freelander td4 glow plug issue??

The only other P0501 fault a search throws up is this...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/no-start-fixed-now-abs-fault.314925/

In that the OP had 3 Amigos and no speedo. Turned out to be FL11 in the engine compartment - no power getting to the ABS ECU. However, if you're speedo is working, it won't be that.

Hey folks, thanks for the replies.
My speedo is working fine so I’m not sure why it’s conplaining about signal.

I’ve deleted that code and it’s not reappeared as I’ve not driven it.
But still even standing still the rpm is very slow to increase.

It’s firing fine and is running smooth just very slow to pick up rpm and also very slow to gain speed whilst driving. As if it’s in limp mode.

I really don’t understand it as I only stripped manifold and injectors and cleaned them all and reinstalled them with new injector seals.

I’ve actually resolved 2/3 of the original problems of it 1) misfiring 2) smoking baldy. Now no mis or excess smoke. Just no power.

Service kit arrived late today so will try changing the fuel filter tomorrow as a possible solution. I believe there is also a mesh in the pick up in the fuel tank and also another one in the metal pipe that feeds into the hp pump although I’m still to confirm this.

One last clue is she’s a pig to start cold but fires up easy when hot.

Thanks, ross

Also a tiny sniff of brake cleaner sees her fire right up when cold.

If you hadn't had the other problems, it would sound like its a failing lift pump, failing O Ring on the HP pump pressure regulator, or fuel rail harness - think these are the "normal" for starting issues. Not sure if they would cause slow/reduced increase in power.

GrumpyGel said:

If you hadn't had the other problems, it would sound like its a failing lift pump, failing O Ring on the HP pump pressure regulator, or fuel rail harness - think these are the "normal" for starting issues. Not sure if they would cause slow/reduced increase in power.

Click to expand...

Hey, thanks I’ll add that to the list. I’m heading to the breakers in the morning to grab a whole bunch of pumps sensors etc and hopefully the updated harness.

Will try changing it all one at a time and will fit some of the full service kit that arrived. Will start with fuel filter + low pump and crank case breather filter then see where it goes.

Thanks, ross

Hello again, ok folks so I’ve been to the breakers and bought the following spare parts just incase

1) rail sensor
2) cam sensor
3) fuel low press sensor
4) turbo solenoid
5) fuel low press pump
6) map sensor
7) replacement rail press harness, everything from sensor socket to ecu pins. Wires in good nick.

Now, I’ve Spent all last night googling and forum searching to learn as much as I can about this so I can trouble shoot effectively. I’ve formulated a list of I believe all realistic potential suspects given my circumstances.

Can anyone help confirm or deny the accuracy of my trouble shooting thought process?? I hope the below makes sense, it’s some kind of trouble shooting thought process on paper lol ;

Potential causes and reasons for elimination;

1) maf sensor - seen working on live data, updates quickly.
2) map sensor - same as above
3) cam sensor - must work as injectors fire into the air
4) crank sensor - must work as injectors fire
5) rail sensor - I assume it works as I’ve read on here the engine stops when it doesn’t work. My car starts cold with brake cleaner and starts itself no prob when hot.
6) fuel low press pump - from what I’ve read and understand when this pump goes the td4 won’t rev past 3k even at idle - I can hear my pump working and the engine will redline standing still so I think it works
7) hp pump - start cold with brake cleaner and start itself perfectly when hot I.e within 3/4 dah dah dahs/conpressions and it’s running fine so pump appears to work.

Stuff still on suspect list;

1) hp pump regulator - this I cannot test as no live data pid for it. Don’t know it if works ok or not.

2) fuel injector may be returning ass loads of fuel causing rail under pressure - I’ve just read a thread on here with a guy who after a lot of garage visits and messing found one of his injectors was returning so much fuel it wouldnt start.

Now I decided to try a little test before I came in just now. I’m aware there shouldn’t be a lot of diesel flow through the leak off hose across injectors, so incase over fuel return is happening I clamped the line and cranked it. The return above inj no 4 blew off within a few seconds of cranking, now I think that shouldn’t have happened but I really need someone to confirm this??

I think I may have found the issue but before taking crap apart yet again can someone confirm what return flow should be expected whilst cranking and also how much at idle??? I’m not looking for exact measurements in grams lol just a rough idea should be fine, should it drip? Should it flow slowly and steadily? Or should it actually spray a jet of diesel across the bonnet???

If drops then a hose blowing off within 3 seconds is a big indicator of a sha**ed injector in which case I’ll run another leak back test to see which one it is. I’ve got two spare injectors anyway all cleaned up and ready to go.

Also can anyone see and problems with thee elimination thought process.

So sorry I know I keep writing books here but I’m just desperate and trying to offer as much info as possible. I’m sure I’m getting close now. My main thought is not enough fuel pressure because an injector as appears to pumps.

Any advice welcomed

Thanks again, ross

Ok I have one other question before I commence the leak off leak back test. Now I’m familiar with the leak off test carried out whilst engine is running. That’s what I identified my 3 bad injectors with.

But I’m not sure about testing leak back when engines off. I’ve read on here and found talk of people doing the test with just the use of the low pump with ignition on and also doing this whilst cranking the engine over I think with injectors unplugged?

Is that correct?
Also with both of these tests, if injectors are inactive or unplugged should there be no fuel returned through the injectors or what should I expect?

Thanks agai

Ok so I’ve repeated the leak off test with ignition and with it running.

With ign on nothing comes out the top of the injectors even after two full 30 second cycles so all good there.
With the engine running for roughly five mins at idle I got the following results;

Cylinder 1 : 67ml
Cylinder 2 : 68ml
Cylinder 3 : 63ml
Cylinder 4 : 56ml

I think these results mean they are ok but could do with some confirmation as again I don’t know these engines and haven’t had a diesel for years.

The ongoing issue’s being it failing to start and having no power when forced to start with a tiny bit spray.

I’m getting more injectors tomo incase I need them then I’m doing the fuel and crankcase filters to try them.

Often when a TD4 needs help to start, it can be the battery isn't powerful enough to spin the engine fast enough for high fuel pressure to be delivered. Or the O rings on the high pressure fuel regulator are leaking, allowing enough fuel to bypass the rail, until the engine is spun quickly by the starting fluid.

Nodge68 said:

Often when a TD4 needs help to start, it can be the battery isn't powerful enough to spin the engine fast enough for high fuel pressure to be delivered. Or the O rings on the high pressure fuel regulator are leaking, allowing enough fuel to bypass the rail, until the engine is spun quickly by the starting fluid.

Click to expand...

Might be worth doing a compression test as sometimes over zealous cleaning and use of start aid sprays can wash away the cylinder lubrication resulting in dry rings etc, cars that are regularly started on cold start seem to develop a dependency on it so worth testing compression especially as the problem arose after work done! To quote my old boss when I was in the motor trade an engine needs, air, fuel and compression sometimes we look too deep for an obscure problem often overlooking the basics ( I do it too lol ).

Nodge68 said:

Often when a TD4 needs help to start, it can be the battery isn't powerful enough to spin the engine fast enough for high fuel pressure to be delivered. Or the O rings on the high pressure fuel regulator are leaking, allowing enough fuel to bypass the rail, until the engine is spun quickly by the starting fluid.

Click to expand...

Hey, ok so I’ve put in a bigger battery as it did look dinky. It now spins faster and did start on its own, it’s started quicker but the engine wasn’t fully cold so won’t really know till I try again in the morning.

I’ve also went to change the breather filter to find the mod already in. I also changed the air filter while I was in that area.

I don’t think compression is a problem. Because it’s diesel and it still starts. I haven’t used easy start in it as I’m aware it destroys engines, just a single squirt of brake cleaner into the plastic intake on approx 4 occasions now, won’t cause any damage although I know what you mean.

I hope in the morning it starts off it’s own back. Although it still has no power and doesn’t really drive at all properly. Will grab more injectors in the morning then do the fuel filter as was planning a full service upon purchase anyway.

I’m hoping at worst these injectors are just stuffed. It totally acts as if it’s not getting fuel through.

Need to drive it to work Monday so hopefully tomorrow I’m finally successful.

Thanks, ross

Before you spend good money on injectors, or a lot more effort stripping them, I'd change the rubber O Ring in the HP pump pressure regulator. This does appear to fix a lot of faults on the forum.

GrumpyGel said:

Before you spend good money on injectors, or a lot more effort stripping them, I'd change the rubber O Ring in the HP pump pressure regulator. This does appear to fix a lot of faults on the forum.

Click to expand...

Thanks Grumpygel, I had a look at the one I took from scrappies but didn’t see an o ring on it? Guess it may have stuck in the pump.

Anyway trying to follow logic and through desperation I went and bought a used set of injectors as my thoughts were “it was fine till I messed with them”.

I’ve fitted them after cleaning all up and it took ages cranking to start but I’m happy to say she’s now sorted. Once it bled through and started the first time it now starts on the button without hesitation and revs up freely as it should. THANK FU** woohooo

So, long story short the previous owner was half right. It does need glow plugs but it also needed a new set of injectors.

Thank you very much to everyone for their information, suggestions and knowledge. Helped a lot in understanding this engine and how it should work. I’ve officially driven it twice now once to collect it and one test just now.

Turned out to be a bargain after all.
£500 has heated leather the lot.

Thanks, ross