Freelander rear window - new regulator will not calibrate

Hi all,

OK at wits end on this one.

Mrs TD4 5dr Freelander1 rear window packed in the other day - I could hear the broken cable in the mechanism so thought - aha I know how to fix this - as per the side windows over the years and bought a new complete regulator assembly for the tailgate window - not one of the repair kits which look a total mare.

Managed to get old one out and new regulator fitted without too much trouble.

My problem is I can't get the motor to calibrate - I've tried all the tricks - disconnect battery & also the ignition position 2 - hold fog switch, ig off, ig pos II release fog lamp then cycle through the ECU test with the lock key and the window won't drop all the way automatically it drops about half an inch.

manually at the rear door with the key if you turn the key the window raises an inch or so then stops. doing this 10-15 times you can completely raise the window. when you open the rear door the window drops half an inch but doesn't raise again when you close it - so you can drop the glass completely by opening and closing the door again about 10-15 times.

help! can't think what to do next - i've tried adjusting the bottom bolts that control the angle of the glass rails in case the glass is pushing too hard against the seal on the door or the frame but to no avail.



any ideas? totally stuck

could it be a duff regulator? CCU? if I connect the multiplug to the old unit and latch the door then holding the key turned in the rear door runs the motor continously which is what I would expect, when connected to the new regulator in the car it runs for half a second

think I might try putting the old motor on the new wires & rails tomorrow. any other suggestions?

Hi Andy, I had a problem with my freelander some time ago where tailgate window was reluctant to move. (Ive had more problems with windows than anything else on this car). Anyway I was trying to follow recalibrate tips and got nowhere, thats how your post rung a bell. I found my problem in the end was simply that mechanism was too tight. My regulator hadnt broke but spraying silicone lub down the cable sheaves and a few runs up and down and it all worked great and still does. WD40 might work but silicon better for long term. Im fairly sure the tailgate regulator has a load sensing device which will cut the power if too much force on motor.You say you bought new regultor but was it genuine lr spare? I replaced one of my front regulators recently with a back street spare and it works but is noticeable tight/slow but I dont think the door regulators have load sensors so im getting away with it. Hope this helps.

Had a similar problem recently with the original regulator after the door handle had come off in my daughters hand and the handle was replaced.
Firstly as posted, check that the glass pressure on the seal is not too high. Adjust the two screws at the bottom of the guide rails.....loosen the M8 nuts with large washers fitted and turn the screws with a flat bladed screwdriver until the glass is barely touching the seal when raised. Then adjust screws so that the rubber seal is compressed about 1mm when glass is raised...tighten the lock nuts.
Check that the rear wiper is in the park position...the window will not raise properly if it isn't.
May sound obvious, make sure that there is nothing fouling the mechanism/glass, e.g. cables etc.
Finally...and this was the cause of my problem, the sensor in the regulator motor is faulty and the motor does not know the position it's at. Solution change the motor/regulator.

thanks for the suggestions.


Solved.

I swapped out the entire motor unit from the replacement regulator with the old original one. It's a pig to get the tensioned wire/pully on to the motor but a bit of brute force managed in the end.

So the sensor in the new motor must have been DOA. :mad2:


Gave the cables a good squirt of silicone for good measure too.

diveandy said:

thanks for the suggestions.


Solved.

I swapped out the entire motor unit from the replacement regulator with the old original one. It's a pig to get the tensioned wire/pully on to the motor but a bit of brute force managed in the end.

So the sensor in the new motor must have been DOA. :mad2:


Gave the cables a good squirt of silicone for good measure too.

Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

:clap2::clap2: Pleased to hear you got a result !!!

Regarding the silicone spray...I personally give the cables on the regulators a good smear of silicone grease before refitting the units.

Yourself & others may find this video useful
▶ Osco Trading - Land Rover Freelander tailgate window - YouTube


:bolt:

Hi all
hope u can help
I changed my regulator on my rear tailgate door as the cable had snapped
(I got the regulator from another freelander 2001) i have an 05 td4

My problem is that when i put the window up , It comes straight back down.
I cant caliberate this as the window will not stay up long enough.

By some miracle i have managed to get the window to stay up but its not all the way
( I have put some tape round the top to stop any rain water coming inn)

I would appreciate any help
Kind regards Dave

handyman1112 said:

Hi all
hope u can help
I changed my regulator on my rear tailgate door as the cable had snapped
(I got the regulator from another freelander 2001) i have an 05 td4

My problem is that when i put the window up , It comes straight back down.
I cant caliberate this as the window will not stay up long enough.

By some miracle i have managed to get the window to stay up but its not all the way
( I have put some tape round the top to stop any rain water coming inn)

I would appreciate any help
Kind regards Dave

Click to expand...

3 door or 5 door?