Freelander questions. (A lot off)

Finally got my 3 door hippo on the road. Few items coming up needing resolved..
2004. 2.00 TD4. 3 door.
1. Are the rear doors on a feelander one pre and post facelift basically the same?. Might need to change rear door...and have a pre facelift door I picked up.
2. Is it better to get a service kit for rear door window winder or a replacement unit kit. See both online. Which best or easier.?
3. I replaced carrier Bearings, the rear diff, (second hand but engineering company serviced and checked before getting it fitted). All new tyres. Still get a hum when driving. Clutch and freewheel, no hum. Any ideas?.old diff was clunking when driving.
4. Clutch is hard to get into gear. Hoping master clutch servo. New one ordered. If not it, how hard is the slave servo to change in a 2.00 TD4.???
5. Any recommendations on how to fit a 2 din stereo? Particularly the cabling loom. Also how to deal with fact the 2 din looks a lot smaller than original cd/radio unit. Anyone done this and how did it look..

Thanks in advance

Alex1000 said:

Are the rear doors on a feelander one pre and post facelift basically the same?. Might need to change rear door...and have a pre facelift door I picked up.

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Yes, they are basically the same, except for some minor differences where the inside door release lever secures.

Alex1000 said:

Is it better to get a service kit for rear door window winder or a replacement unit kit. See both online. Which best or easier.

Click to expand...

Alex1000 said:

Is it better to get a service kit for rear door window winder or a replacement unit kit. See both online. Which best or easier.?

Click to expand...

I replace the cables, but replacing the whole regulator assembly is easier.

Nodge68 said:

I replace the cables, but replacing the whole regulator assembly is easier.

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For someone who is not experienced in these things - get a whole regulator. I found the bolts securing the window were a bit of a PITA to access but other than that, it was very straight forward.

You can end up with a right dogs dinner once you start fiddling with the cable.

Must admit, I don't know the price difference, cos I took the "new" mechanism off my parts car.

Hi,

1 The rear doors are the same, but the trim and the command are different …

2 Replace the full system for the window.

3 VCU bearings can be noisy…

4 If the gears are hard, you will certainly need to do the clutch.

If you ordered a clutch master that is not from LUK or LR you can return it.
Putting a cheap one and throwing a working one, you will only have odd issues.
And don’t flush the clutch hydraulic unless you want to replace the full system.

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

1 The rear doors are the same, but the trim and the command are different …

2 Replace the full system for the window.

3 VCU bearings can be noisy…

4 If the gears are hard, you will certainly need to do the clutch.

If you ordered a clutch master that is not from LUK or LR you can return it.
Putting a cheap one and throwing a working one, you will only have odd issues.
And don’t flush the clutch hydraulic unless you want to replace the full system.

Click to expand...

When you say command are different, what is that?. I've had new VCU bearings fitted, and would they not still be running when I clutch and freewheel..

Alex1000 said:

When you say command are different, what is that?. I've had new VCU bearings fitted, and would they not still be running when I clutch and freewheel..

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Cheap VCU bearing can be noisy but they do the job.

The window buttons or command are in different place … on the pre facelift doors … same for the door lock cable and door handle …
Better to put a door with almost the same caracteristics, you’ll still need to put it in place and align it.
The door lock check is almost certainly in bad condition, the door should open smoothly, if not you can change it …

For Q5), It depends if you already have 1-din or 2-din stereo. I replaced the standard 2-din unit with a 2-din Android into my wife's 2005 TD4. The head unit should come with a mounting cage which just clips in like any other stereo. You will probably need a loom adapter, altough it can be done without.

If yours has the HK version with Sat Nav & Amplifier under left seat, then there's more work to do, but you might be able to interface the new stereo line outputs to the HK amplifier.

Thanks. In relation to the pre face lift door, I'm going to strip out the window regulator. Solenoid etc, to have spares. Keep door just in case. As the door is off the old car, how do I get the window glass down to unbolt from the regulator.?. Any ideas?. Have a 12 volt battery and if anyone can advise the wires to run power to, if that would work.

Alteredtech said:

Cheap VCU bearing can be noisy but they do the job…

Click to expand...

But would vcu bearing not still hum when clutch in and freewheeling. When I clutch and freewheel no hum.

Alex1000 said:

Thanks. In relation to the pre face lift door, I'm going to strip out the window regulator. Solenoid etc, to have spares. Keep door just in case. As the door is off the old car, how do I get the window glass down to unbolt from the regulator.?. Any ideas?. Have a 12 volt battery and if anyone can advise the wires to run power to, if that would work.

Click to expand...

I got that sorted. Double jointed and a spanner....