Freelander Project IV (Bertie)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Alibro said:
On Sunday I went to an off road day at Northeast Adventures near Newry Co. Down. Had a great time so here is the first video of Bertie in action. Apologies for the sound and video quality, this was my first time using the camcorder in the car and it rattled against the windscreen a bit, then focused on the rain drops on the windscreen. Also I think it needs to be higher in the car as the hills don't look anywhere near as steep in the video as they were in real life.
Click to expand...


Works well Ali.
I have an accent to put with the text now too. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Works well Ali.
I have an accent to put with the text now too. ;)
Click to expand...
LOL, I'm sure everyone else hates the sound of their own voice but.......
BTW the Scottish accent is my mate Gordan. He recently bought a Landrover 90 that came with a galv chassis and we're slowly working at it together.
 
Alibro said:
LOL, I'm sure everyone else hates the sound of their own voice but.......
BTW the Scottish accent is my mate Gordan. He recently bought a Landrover 90 that came with a galv chassis and we're slowly working at it together.
Click to expand...
No one likes the sound of there own voice Ali. I hate my southeastern twang:(
 
Alibro said:
Since I bought Bertie I wasn't convinced he was as perky as he should be so I've been checking hoses, I replaced the intercooler hoses shortly after buying him but it didn't seem to make much difference. Last week I replaced the vac hoses and found one was worn right through at the front of the engine where two hoses plug in beside each other. While replacing the hose which connects to the rear of the vac reservoir the nozzle broke off and looked like it had been badly repaired. I mentioned this earlier in the thread and had a go at sealing it with silicone but wasn't convinced it was sorted. So tonight I pulled the silicone away and drilled out the remains and screwed in a brake bleed nipple which seems to have improved the boost issues cause when I took him for a test drive tonight he was going better than ever. :D

20161128_212333_zpsvl2t0ukx.jpg


I installed a turbo boost gauge which still needs to be properly mounted but on the test run tonight was showing a peak of 1.1 - 1.2 bar or approx 17 - 18psi. I'm not sure but I think that is about right give or take a bit. Perhaps someone who has a similar setup could let me know. I have a vac feed from the front D/S intercooler hose and fed through the bulkhead to the D/S foot well then up to the RHS of the dash. The gauge is just a cheapo £13 jobbie off ebay so may not be very accurate but at least it gives me an indication of what's going on.
I'll post some pics when I get it properly mounted.

I also replaced the brake pedal switch which seems to have fixed the two amigos fault, HDC and TC coming on intermittently. :cool:
Click to expand...
I was driving to the parts shop today to get a new battery for SWMBO's motor and took Bertie so I could check out the boost again. Very interesting findings, On the way to the shop I was getting 1.2 bar peak but a bit sluggish to rise. On the way back I filled the car with BP Ultimate and threw in some injector cleaner for good measure. I don't know if that was the reason or if I still have a leak (probably) which was less of an issue with the engine being warmer but I saw it rise to 1.5 bar at one point but then suddenly dropped off. I'm still getting a strange groaning noise when I turn the engine off so I'm pretty sure there is a leak somewhere.
Methinks some further investigation is required but the fact I saw 1.5 bar is encouraging.
 
Time to replace that vacuum reservoir Ali?

On ZT's it is common to loose the O-ring seals on the intercooler. Not seen this mentioned here, but worth a look perhaps if everything else checks out okay?
 
rob_bell said:
Time to replace that vacuum reservoir Ali?

On ZT's it is common to loose the O-ring seals on the intercooler. Not seen this mentioned here, but worth a look perhaps if everything else checks out okay?
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob
You're probably right about the vac reservoir but I is a miserable git and hate parting with money.
I'll try the one in my other TD4 before buying one. :p
I've ordered some spring clips for the 4mm silicone vac hoses just in case they are leaking as the originals didn't have clips. My son has a fitting with a valve in it so will see if I can pressurise the system a little and find it that way.
Never heard of O ring seals in the intercooler, any idea where they are?
 
Last edited:
I'll see whether I can find a thread for you, but the Rover/MG use a different intercooler, so it might not be relevant?
 
Last night I found the source of the buzzing sound from the vac system and it isn't the vac reservoir but the EGR vac controller.
20161207_225850_zpstzafm7mz.jpg

I'm not 100% sure if it is the controller itself or the vac hoses not fitting tightly enough but since I'm not using the EGR anyway I just took it out, I have new clips on the way to secure the vac hoses so might try to refit it again later if someone thinks the ECU might throw a wobbly. Hopefully the fact it's missing won't cause any issues.

Did a bit of testing tonight with the Icarsoft i930 to compare the pressure readings with my new gauge. Turns out they pretty much agree as the pressure gauge was reading 1.4bar peak and the MAP was reading 226Kpa which equates to 2.26 bar. I'm assuming the gauge is giving gauge pressure not absolute pressure so they are close enough given the difficulty of getting a reading from both at the same moment and the gauge is a ebay cheapy.
Now I need to figure out why the boost pressure keeps dropping away quickly when RPM reaches 3500 rpm or so. I thought boost pressure was meant to build up to a max and stay there. Maybe the boost control valve or hopefully I've just missed a vac hose that still needs replaced?
Anyway we're getting a bit closer every time. :)

Ali
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
Last night I found the source of the buzzing sound from the vac system and it isn't the vac reservoir but the EGR vac controller.
20161207_225850_zpstzafm7mz.jpg

I'm not 100% sure if it is the controller itself or the vac hoses not fitting tightly enough but since I'm not using the EGR anyway I just took it out, I have new clips on the way to secure the vac hoses so might try to refit it again later if someone thinks the ECU might throw a wobbly. Hopefully the fact it's missing won't cause any issues.

Did a bit of testing tonight with the Icarsoft i930 to compare the pressure readings with my new gauge. Turns out they pretty much agree as the pressure gauge was reading 1.4bar peak and the MAP was reading 226Kpa which equates to 2.26 bar. I'm assuming the gauge is giving gauge pressure not absolute pressure so they are close enough given the difficulty of getting a reading from both at the same moment and the gauge is a ebay cheapy.
Now I need to figure out why the boost pressure keeps dropping away quickly when RPM reaches 3500 rpm or so. I thought boost pressure was meant to build up to a max and stay there. Maybe the boost control valve or hopefully I've just missed a vac hose that still needs replaced?
Anyway we're getting a bit closer every time. :)

Ali
Click to expand...
The Torque Map in the ECU will drop the maximum amount of fuel injected once revs go past a certain point - 3,500rpm sounds in the right ball park - but it doesn't drop it dramatically until the red line is reached - so you'd think it would still need a lot of boost to burn what is being injected.

Were you seeing the boost drop at rest in neutral or under load? It won't need to inject so much fuel just to spin the engine up to 3.5k revs - but it would need more fuel if you are in gear and shifting the weight of the car (ie you'd need more throttle) and more fuel means more boost if it can't be burnt in a 500cc cylinder at atmospheric pressure.
 
Ali. The first thing you need to check is the vacuum hoses. If there are any that allow air in, the vacuum will drop. The turbo needs a strong vacuum to move the vanes. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Ali. The first thing you need to check is the vacuum hoses. If there are any that allow air in, the vacuum will drop. The turbo needs a strong vacuum to move the vanes. ;)
Click to expand...
New hose clips arrived today so will take another look over the weekend to make sure I haven't missed something.
I was hoping to go off roading tomorrow but the new rear diff poly bushes haven't arrived so will have plenty of time to check hoses. Way too much clunking and groaning going on back there to mess about with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
rear wheel bearing question
Replies
3
Views
495
frenchdave
F
HillbillyDave
Central locking help
Replies
1
Views
219
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
damian46
Water leak in boot
Replies
14
Views
783
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
Y
Freelander 2 2009 drivers window issue
Replies
3
Views
297
TK MAX
TK MAX
J
Freelander 1 FL1 Spares / Repair Project in Mid Cornwall (Possible easy fix)
Replies
15
Views
1K
Juzza6720
J
Back
Top